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Gubelin 18K Gold, Ruby, Emerald & Carlo Poluzzi Swiss Enamel Pendant

Gubelin 18K Gold, Ruby, Emerald & Carlo Poluzzi Swiss Enamel Pendant


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Directory: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed: Pre 1950: Item # 1472136
Kensington House Antiques
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An outstanding 18K gold pendant set with an amazing enameled alpine scene by Carlo Poluzzi (1899-1978), the greatest Swiss enamellist of the the 20th century. Poluzzi sometimes used the very difficult technique of applying translucent enamel over an engraved gold plate to produce brilliant sunrise or set effects as seen in the left side of the sky in this example. This required multiple coats of different colored enamels which increased the likelihood of unwanted cracks during the multiple firings. Poluzzi was perhaps the only enamellist capable of this technique in the 20th century, and indeed, the scene is signed at the lower left. Of course, this example is also signed at the lower left. In the 1920s, Poluzzi (still in his low 20s) became the master of Emaux de Genève, the provider of the highest quality enameled dials and cases for luxury horlogers such as Vacheron & Constantin, Patek Philippe, Rolex and Gubelin. This plaque is set as a pendant by the Gubelin. The Holbein-style setting features square cut rubies and emeralds amid swirling gold foliage. The gemstones are of very fine quality with intense, saturated coloring and excellent clarity. The reverse is stamped with Gubelin’s hallmark and the Swiss gold mark for 18K.
  • Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1945
  • Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
  • Dimensions: 1-5/8” x 1-7/16”
  • Weight: 26.6 grams
  • Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .8 carat; emerald, .47 carat