Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1639)

A vintage 18K gold Sputnik ring of dramatically large proportions by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen fine-quality round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, peridots, aquamarines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. This is, by far, the largest Sputnik ring we've ever encountered, rising a full 3/4" above the finger. The shank is stamped with Stern's older hallmark and is marked for 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 8-3/4 (can easily be sized up or down). Dimensions: dome, 1-1/4" diameter. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 12.92 carats.

A colorful, handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces bezel-set with carnelian and green chalcedony oval cabochons. The color contrast is very striking. Interestingly, they could be worn so either the red or green sides face out on the cuff, or with one cuff showing red and the other green. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: carnelian, 8.14 cts.; chalcedony, 8.14 cts.

Handsome pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the elongated diamond-shaped faces set with cabocochon-cut blue sapphires. The stones have excellent, bright color. The faces are lightly textured in a starburst pattern emanating from the sapphires toward the faceted edges. The fronts are attached with solid connectors to the toggle backs. The connectors are marked "585" for 14K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1950.

Condition: excellent, all original.

Size: 5/8" x 7/8".

Weight: 5.0 grams.

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .62 carat.

A fine example of some of the best enameled silver produced by David-Andersen in the late 1950s. This brooch represents "Spring" from the "Four Seasons" line designed for David-Andersen by Thorbjorn Lie-Jorgensen in the late 1950s. The set of designs represent an abstract aerial views of the same landscape in each of the four seasons. "Spring" is worked in lush shades of turquoise, teal blue, gold and brown. The back, with the original patina, retains the original pinstem and c-clasp, and is marked "D-A", "925S" and "Norway-Sterling".

Origin: Norway, ca. 1959. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 1-11/16" x 1-5/16". Weight: 16.25 grams.

An interesting pair of 18K yellow gold baton style cufflinks, the faces set with oval blue sapphires. The sapphires are bezel-set for a clean, classic look. The sapphires have a strong, dark blue color and do not show signs of heat treatment. The toggle backs are stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 15/16” x 1/4". Weight: 9.7 gr. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 4.56 cts.

A large, heavy 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm set with brilliant cut amethysts and pearls. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with applied wire-work and rosettes. The amethysts intense violet coloring and excellent clarity. The pearls display good luster with a slightly rose overtone that nicely complement the color of the amethysts. Marked “Italy 18K.”

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-5/8” (excluding jump ring).
• Weight: 21.3 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 16.26 carats.
• Condition: excellent; no dings; all original.

A pretty 10K yellow and rose gold half-hoop wedding band, the front decorated with finely engraved roses. The flower petals are worked in rose gold for added contrast and the entire design is recessed to prevent wear to the carving. The interior of the shank is marked "10K" and also has an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1950
• Condition:excellent
• Dimensions: 7/32" wide tapering to 1/8" at the back
• Finger Size: 7-1/4
• Weight: 2.9 grams

A very fine pair of platinum, diamond and aquamarine earrings in a classic Art Deco style. The brilliant round-cut diamonds graduate from .20 ct at the top to .30 ct at the bottom. The diamonds are finely matched at H color, VS1 to VS2 clarity, with good to very good cut. The brilliant oval-cut aquamarines have fine color color, very good brilliance and SI clarity. The aquamarines are unheated. Each gemstone is set in a fully articulated mounting with a pierced gallery. The earrings have screw posts. Tested and guaranteed platinum.

Size: 1-3/4" long. Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.52 carats; aquamarine, 3.52 cts. Weight: 9.0 grams.

A very nice and unusually heavy 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob/charm set with amethysts. The gold surfaces are heavily worked in twisted wire and beaded decoration. The smaller amethysts are set in flower-shaped collets. Tested and guaranteed 18K (the jump ring is marked “750”).

• Origin: Italy, ca 1950
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 1-1/2” (excluding jump ring)
• Weight: 16.5 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 6.59 carats

A very good 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan charm in the shape of a crown set with amethysts and pearls. The gold surfaces are decorated with ornate bead and twisted wire ornaments. The bottom of the charm has a large oval brilliant amethyst weighing approximately 6.77 carats, while the sides are set with four oval amethysts of 3.58 carats each. The lower sides are also collet-set with a band of smaller round amethysts. The amethysts are nicely cut with good brilliance and even, medium violet color. The top of the crown features four cultured pearls. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/8” x 1” x 1-3/8” high (excluding bail). Weight: 19.4 grams. Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 23.49 cts.

A classic Venetian Etruscan 18K gold charm set with round amethysts. The gold surfaces are ornately worked with rosettes, beaded and rope-twist decoration. The amethysts have nice medium-light violet color that contrasts beautifully with the surrounded gold. Charms of this type are usually extremely large, but this example is in a rare smaller size that’s easier to wear on a bracelet or as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide x 1” high (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 3.04 carats
• Weight: 6.2 grams

A vintage 14K yellow gold tie bar or money clip in the form of three golf clubs. The detailing of the clubs' handles is very nice. The back of the tie bar has an eyelet that can be used to anchor a safety chain if the piece is used as a tie bar. This piece is marked "14K" and was probably made by Larter. Larter made much of the men's gold jewelry for Tiffany & Co., and we have seen this exact piece with Tiffany's hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1950

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: 3-1/8" x 5/8"

Weight: 12.2 grams

A large pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement.These earrings have particularly intense jewel tones. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Brazil, ca 1955.
• Condition: original clips were removed and replaced with 14K posts
• 15/16" diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 14.44 carats
• 10.2 grams.

A heavy pair of 18K yellow gold baton cufflinks, the faces with Florentined engraving and bands of round rubies at either end. The rubies have nicely saturated, strongly purplish-red coloring and eye-clean clarity. The back batons are finished with reeded engraving. The toggle connectors are marked with French 18K gold import marks.

• Circa 1950
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: longer batons, 27/32"
Weight: 14.8 grams
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .50 carat.

An attractive pair of mid-20th century cufflinks the faces designed as clusters of baroque freshwater pearls overlaid with gold bands centering rows of round brilliant cut diamonds. The pearls have lustrous surfaces, but their craggy shapes give them a more masculine appeal. The gold bands are enhanced with stippled engraving for added texture, and the small diamonds add a little sparkle without being overwhelming. The cufflinks are heavy and are very well constructed. These look particularly good worn with medium-blue or dark-colored shirts. The toggles are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2” x 3/4". Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .18 carat.

An classic pair of French 18K yellow gold baton cufflinks with a most unusual mechanical snap mechanism. The batons have reeded surfaces with plain inset bands at either end. When one of the plain bands is pushed in, a hidden spring mechanism releases the face from its mate. Snap cufflinks were uncommon in France, and this is the first pair we've seen combining the snap with a mechanical action. The cufflinks bear French gold hallmarks and are stamped with an unidentified goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: batons, 29/32" long. Weight: 14.5 gr.

For anniversary jewelry, there's nothing more romantic than this rare 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love token (“medaille d’amour”) ring with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a single-cut diamond, and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies. Augis rings are far rarer than pendants and charms.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. The ring is signed “A. Augis,” and is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1955.
• Finger Size: 7 1/4.
• Dimensions: 9/16” wide.
• Weight: 5.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; synthetic ruby, .12 carat.

A pair of truly exceptional Shakudo cufflinks, the faces being a matched pair of mixed-metal plaques representing all the signs of the Chinese and Japanese Zodiac, including tigers, boars, dragons, rats, roosters, rabbits, snakes, oxen, dogs, monkeys, sheep and horses. The detail work is amazing and the design is one of the most complex we've seen. The plaques are mounted on custom-fitted 950 silver backs with toggle mechanisms. The shakudo plaques date to the 19th century Meiji period and the silver fittings are around 1950.

Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent, original patina, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 5/8". Weight: 12.2 grams.

A delightful vintage 14K yellow gold disc charm or pendant by Tiffany & Co. The center features an intricately cast "Tree of Life" bedecked with gemstone flowers. Starting with the diamond and spiraling outward in a counterclockwise direction, the first letter of each gemstone’s name—Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire and Topaz—spells “DEAREST”. The tree is enclosed in an open twist border, in turn enclosed in a broad “pleated” border. The back is marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Acrostic jewelry spelling out such sentiments was very popular in the Victorian era. The gemstones are 19th century antique cuts and Tiffany apparently custom-set them in this piece at a client’s request. The nature of the clarity characteristics suggests that the ruby is Burmese in origin, while the sapphire is Kashmir. Neither shows evidence of treatment, nor are the emeralds filled. The “Tree of Life” pattern was often set with birthstones representing the owner’s children or grandchildren, but the acrostic “DEAREST” is most unusual.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-5/8” diameter. Weight: 17.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .35 ct.

A rare pair of large 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridot, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. These earrings are of a particularly large size. The earrings currently have posts, but those could be removed if desired. Marked for 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 1-3/32" diameter. Weight: 16.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 16.34 cts.

A handsome, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold and onyx cufflinks, each fashioned as two spheres joined by chain-like connectors. The design is a play on positive/negative space. The larger spheres are constructed in gold decorated with concentric rings and inset at the equator with a recessed band of black onyx. The smaller spheres are the opposite—onyx spheres inset with a slightly protruding band of gold at the equator. The gold mountings on the onyx spheres and the middle of each connector are decorated with concentric rings to echo the larger spheres. Altogether, this is an understated, but very sophisticated design. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French hallmarks for 18K gold and with a master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Size: large spheres, 1/2" diameter; small spheres, 11/32” diameter. Weight: 13.7 grams.

An elegant pair of vintage earclips in 18K yellow gold set with pearls. Each earring is set with 19 4.5mm pearls of fine quality. The pearls have cream body color with nice luster, and are estimated at A+ quality. The setting is constructed in a way that it is nearly invisible when the earclips are being worn. The backs retain the original omega clips, but could easily have posts added. The backs are marked with the French “tete d’aigle” mark for 18K gold and also have an unidentified maker’s mark. One earring also has a partial serial number, generally the sign of a high-quality jeweler.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 29/32” diameter. Weight: 10.5 grams.

A classic modernist silver pendant or charm representing the Zodiac sign Aquarius (“le Verseau”). A long-haired maiden pours water from a large ewer. The design is worked with a semi-matte finish and is enclosed in a highly-polished frame. The pendant retains its original jump ring. The pendant is stamped with French second-standard (800/1000 pure) silver hallmarks in use before 1962 and an unidentified maker’s mark (A cross P).

• Origin: France, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 25/32” x 25/32” (20 x 20 mm) excluding bail and jump ring
• Weight: 4.6 grams

A large 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. The interior of the shank is stamped “750” for 18K gold, and bears Stern’s older hallmark.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1955.
• Dimensions: 1” diameter.
• Finger Size: 7 1/4.
• Weight: 6.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.05 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no dings.

A very nice 18K yellow gold ring in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The sphere is bezel-set with round citrines, amethyst, green tourmalines and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the jeweler’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each ring has a unique appearance stemming from the specific combination of gemstones used. This example has a large number of citrines in a fine, golden honey color. Combined with the green shades of tourmaline, the overall appearance is almost autumnal. The shank is signed by Stern and is marked for 18K gold. This example is on the smaller side and is ideal for wear as a pinky ring or on a smaller hand.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5-3/4. Dimensions: dome, 5/8” diameter. Weight: 2.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.10 carats.

A nice 18K gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, peridots, aquamarines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Dimensions: dome, 13/16" diameter. Weight: 6.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.28 cts.

A large 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. The interior of the shank is stamped “750” for 18K gold, and bears Stern’s older hallmark.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1955.
• Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.
• Finger Size: 10 1/4.
• Weight: 5.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.05 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no dings.

A nice 18K gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, peridots, aquamarines and garnets. This is the first time we've seen a blue tourmaline in a Sputnik ring. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. This ring has unusually saturated colors, particularly in the green tourmalines and garnets. The shank is stamped "18K".

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: dome, 7/8" diameter. Weight: 4.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.81 cts.

A rare large 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant ("medaille d'amour") enclosed in a halo of bright red rubies. The medal has a rebus spelling out "Plus qu'hier, moins que demain" ("More than yesterday, less than tomorrow"), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of "Cyrano de Bergerac") in 1889. The word "plus" is symbolized by a plus sign set with five single-cut diamonds and the word "moins" is symbolized by a minus sign set with two rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed with "A. Augis", in one of the more ornate versions with a crepe de chine textured background enclosed in a scalloped frame set with brilliant round cut synthetic rubies. The fairly large size is perfect to be worn as a necklace, but could also be worn on a very chunky charm bracelet. The pendant is stamped with French 18K gold marks, and with Augis' signature and marker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, no engraving on reverse. Dimensions: 1-5/16" diameter (excluding bail). Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 ct; synthetic ruby, 3.08 cts. Weight: 9.9 gr.

An uncommon 18K yellow gold pendant in the Sputnik style collet-set with round amethysts, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, garnets, aquamarines and citrines. This design was originally created by H Stern in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company's native Brazil. It later came to be known as "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance resulting from the specific combination of gemstones used. This pendant has rich look with unusually saturated colors. The Sputnik design was most commonly used for rings; pendants are difficult to find. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 25/32" diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 3.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.81 cts.

A stunning 1950's costume jewelry pendant with prong-set aurora borealis rhinestones in shades of blue and white surrounding a central large amethyst rhinestone. The brooch is finished with four pear-shaped amethyst drops. The metal has a matte gold finish. With the addition of a pendant loop affixed to the pinstem, this piece would make a terrific pendant.

Ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 2-7/16" x 1-3/8".

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines, amethysts green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. The inside of the shank is stamped “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 13/16” diameter. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Weight: 3.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.59 cts.

A wonderfully witty 14K gold tie bar in the form of a snow ski by Tiffany & Co. As expected of a mid-century Tiffany design, the workmanship is very finely detailed and executed right down to the details of the bindings. The back is engraved with a period three-letter monogram “WLT” and is also marked “14K Tiffany & Co.”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 2-11/16” x 5/16” (front width). Weight: 6.2 grams.

A classic mid-century silver pendant or charm representing the Zodiac sign Libra (“la Balance”). A detailed scale appears over a stippled background and is accompanied by the classic iconographical symbol for balance. The pendant is stamped with French second-standard (800/1000 pure) silver hallmarks in use before 1962 and an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 13/16” diameter excluding bail and jump ring
• Weight: 3.8 grams

Lovely vintage sterling silver brooch set with a cluster of eight Mikimoto-quality pearls. The pearls range from 6.0 to 7.5mm. They have very white body color with silvery overtones. The nacre is thick and very lustrous. Mikimoto supplied other jewelers with pearls and it is most likely that these are by Mikimoto. The openwork sterling silver setting in a stylized floral form is typical of the 1950s and the clasp is identical to those used by Mikimoto during the period. The back is marked “Silver’.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/2” x 1-7/8”. Weight: 14.75 grams.

A handsome pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks in the loveknot form, the top of each knot collet-set in white gold with a round brilliant-cut diamond. The gold tubes that form the knots have squared-off edges that make the knots more interesting than other similar knot cufflinks. The diamonds are estimated at SI2 clarity and J/K color.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 6.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .23 carat.