Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1639)

A classic Victorian 14K yellow gold fob seal, the surfaces ornately decorated in a repousse pattern of flowers and foliage. Fobs in this design are more typically English than American. It is very generously sized to make an impression when being worn. The citrine plaque is engraved with the monogram “WKV”, so we’ll just assume that was for William K Vanderbilt (LOL!) The ring is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1840
• Dimensions: 1” x 7/8” x 1-1/2” (excluding ring)
• Weight: 19.5 grams

A heavy French 18K gold and diamond pendant depicting a mythological griffin. The creature has the body of a lion and the head and wings of an eagle. His open jaws clasp an old mine cut diamond. The diamond is graded as G color, SI1 clarity. Griffins in brooches are often shown in a crouching position, but in this example, the creature is standing upright in a more assertive pose. The piece can be worn as a brooch or as a pendant suspended from the loops at the wing tips. The pendant is stamped with French 18K guarantee marks and with the master goldsmith’s mark “Vve G” for “widow Godivier.” In rare instances, more enterprising French women were able to successfully assume control of the family business after their husbands had died.

• Origin: France, ca. 1904-1911
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 1-3/8”
• Weight: 15.1 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .21 carat

Fantastic mid-Victorian demi-parure composed of a brooch and matching earrings. The brooch is set with pyramid-cut onyx accented with seed pearls in a millegrained mounting. The earrings feature onyx circles surrounding briolette-cut onyx drops, all hanging from kite-shaped onyx and pearl surmounts. Originally intended as mourning jewelry, this set continues to be very versatile and wearable. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: English or American, circa 1860. Condition: earrings have replaced wires and are in virtually mint condition; the brooch has a replacement clasp and one stone has a hairline visible under a 10X loupe. Size: brooch, 2-1/2" x 3/8"; earrings, 1-3/16" long (to top of surmount). Weight: earrings, 4.5 grams; brooch, 7.25 grams.

A superb pair of late Victorian 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, each face set with a carnelian cabochon. The settings are in a style combining both Aesthetic and Architectural Revival elements. The gold surfaces, worked in the matte Russian finish often seen in Art Nouveau jewels, contrasts beautifully with the rich rust colors of the carnelians. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 9.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.0 carats.

Exquisite Victorian sticking fashioned from 12K yellow gold, the head in the shape of a horseshoe prong-set with a double row of graduated rose-cut diamonds and cabochon rubies. One of the rubies is an old mine-cut and another is a rectangular cushion-cut. In both cases, the stones appear to be original, as the setting fits them perfectly. Perhaps the jeweler was more interested in matching color than specific cuts. This was not an uncommon practice in the era. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold.

Origin: probably England, circa 1880. Condition: very good, with wear to some of the outer prongs. Size: head, 5/8” x 9/16”, overall length, 2-7/16”. Weight: 2.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .3 carat; ruby .5 carat.

A wonderful Imperial Russian witch's heart brooch and pendant worked in silver-topped 14K gold and set with 78 rose cut diamonds and a heart-shaped garnet. Interestingly, the garnet is not cut in a standard heart shape, but in a slightly curved fashion that echoes the overall shape of the pin. The heart is topped with a ribbon motif. In Victorian jewelry symbolism, the witch's heart conveyed the meaning, "Bewitched by love." The brooch is Russian, but the pinstem and clasp were replaced around 1920, and at that time the brooch was then marked with a transitional Polish hallmark used 1920-21 to remark items that had been created during the time Poland was occupied by Imperial Russia. The brooch also retains the original Russian maker's mark "KK".

NOTE: The chain is shown for display purposes only.

• Russia, circa 1850
• 15/16" x 1 5/16"
• 7.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.0 carats; garnet, 2.66 carats

A lovely late Victorian brooch featuring an oval-cut amethyst flanked by a pair of 7mm half-pearls surrounded by rose-cut and old-mine cut diamonds. The amethyst has nice coloring and clarity that contrasts nicely with the creamy color and soft luster of the pearls. The tiny diamonds add just a hint of sparkle. The back retains the original pinstem and c-clasp. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-9/16” x 5/8”. Weight: 7.75 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 4.85 carats; diamond, .25 carat.

A very good and unusually heavy pair of Victorian yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the oval faces studded with rose cut diamonds and antique cushion cut blue sapphires in star settings. The gemstones are set in alternating rows for visual interest. The sapphires have vivid medium-dark violetish-blue color with excellent clarity and show no indications of heat treatment. The diamonds are lively with nice color and clarity. The gold is treated to the slightly matte Russian finish that was popular in better jewelry at the end of the 19th century. The cufflinks are unmarked, but are guaranteed to be at least 18K. Testing suggests they are more likely 19-20K, but definitely lower than 22K.

Ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4” x 1/2". Weight: 12.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .24 carat; sapphire, .72 carat.

A fine early French Art Nouveau orchid brooch, the flower petals carved from banded agate around old mine cut diamond stamens, all set atop an elegant gold stem set with rose cut diamonds. The flower is a single piece of agate, finished with a matte surface to suggest the texture of a real flower petals. The carver left streaks of a darker colored agate on the back to create the delicately-colored veining that shows through the petals. The petal at lower left is turned back on itself to enhance the realistic effect. The reverse is stamped with a "tete de Mercure" hallmark indicating 18K gold that was intended to be sold abroad. There is also an illegible master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880
• Condition: excellent; all original; a few tiny fleabites on one petal visible only with 10X magnification
• Dimensions: 2-5/8" x 1-1/4"Weight: 10.25 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .85 carat.

An imposing 18K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet set with sapphires and diamonds. A row of alternating old mine cut diamonds and cushion cut sapphires stretches across the top of the bracelet, flanked on either side by a row of rose cut diamonds set in silver. The sapphires, each of about .75 carat, are of outstanding quality, with vibrant pure blue coloring, eye-clean clarity, and a velvety appearance. The diamonds, each of about .6 carat, are graded as G/SI1. The bangle is double-hinged so it's very easy to get on. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1850.
• Condition: excellent; a few very small dings on the back side but no major dents or scrapes.
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide; 6-1/2" interior circumference.
• Weight: 34.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 3.08 carats; diamond, 2.78 carats.

A fine Art Nouveau medallist brooch depicting Demeter (Ceres), goddess of the harvest, in 18K gold by Louis Rault. She is shown in profile with several of her attributes a tiara of wheat and poppies and a scythe. The wears a rose-cut diamond earring, a diamond toga clasp, and a third in her tiara. Louis Armand Rault was a lead designer for Boucheron 1868-75 and this is one of his signature designs. The brooch is stamped with French 18K gold marks and also with an illegible maker's mark. The front is also marked with Rault's monogram. The brooch could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 7.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 carat.

An outstanding 18K gold shield-form perfume locket ("vinaigrette"), opening to reveal two compartments separated by a hinged crystal cover. The front cover is worked in an ornate pierced and engraved design in the Persian taste. The tiny pierced openings are concealed within the design and are intended to permit the escape of scent from a tiny perfume-soaked sponge that can be wedged inside the front cover. Vinaigrettes of this sort were used by ladies to ward off the unpleasant odors of the streets. The back cover is more simply decorated in a stippled pattern that vaguely suggests fleurs-de-lys. When opened, the back side can accommodate a portrait. The two halves are separated by a thick crystal cover with beveled edges set in gold. The locket hangs from a scrolled bail ornament. The gold has a slightly rosy tint. The inside edges are stamped with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: very good, sharp detail; the back cover has a few small dings visible in strong raking light
• Dimensions: 1-9/16” x 15/16” (40 x 23 mm)
• Weight: 21.0 grams

A wonderful pair of Victorian earrings, each in the form of two entwined snakes. One snake has a oval ruby set in the top of its head and old mine cut diamond eyes, while the other has an old mine cut diamond head and cabochon ruby eyes. The gold surfaces are realistically engraved with scales. The rubies do not show indication of heat treatment and have bright pure red coloring. The diamonds are SI1 clarity and J/K color. Entwined snakes symbolized eternal love and became popular after Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria a betrothal ring in the form of snakes. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Ca. 1880, probably France. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" diameter (excluding wires); 1-1/4” long (from top of wire). Weight: 10.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .3 ct; ruby, .3 ct.

A lovely Victorian starburst pendant worked in 14K yellow gold and set with an old mine cut diamond at the center. Stars in Victorian jewelry symbolized guidance and wisdom. Most Victorian starbursts have straight rays, but the Art Nouveau-influenced curlicue design of this example makes it especially nice. The diamond at the center has good brilliance, I/J color and VS1 clarity. The pendant retains the original brooch fitting, as well, but it is very well hidden when being worn as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K (the newer bail is marked 10K).

• Origin: America, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” diameter
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .35 carat
• Weight: 4.3 grams

Colorful Victorian silver gilt double-sided cufflinks featuring beautifully patterned malachite cabochons. The gilt silver borders are finished in a classic laurel wreath design. The removable connectors are marked for 800 silver.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1880
• Condition: excellent, original gilding intact
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide

Swiss Silver Niello & Gilt Silver Watch Chain An excellent late Victorian silver watch chain with striped niello decoration on the double bar links, alternating with silver gilt curb links. The chain is finished at one end with a dog clip and at the other with a large niello bolt. The chain is stamped with the Swiss mark for 800 silver used 1882-1934.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, niello intact
• Length: 16-1/4”
• Weight: 15.2 grams

A spectacular demi-parure comprising a pair of earrings and a pendant/brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and set with Persian turquoise. The earrings have round surmounts decorated with applied bead and ropetwist decoration in the Etruscan Revival taste suspending ornately geometrical elements set with square turquoise cabochons. The pendant is made to match and has a bail that remains hidden when worn as a brooch. The turquoise is very well-matched. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1865. Condition: excellent, one stone at the bottom of the pendant has darkened to green (typical of Victorian turquoise). Dimensions: earrings, 2-7/8" long from top of earwire; pendant/brooch, 3" x 1-1/4". Weight: 39.6 gr.

A cute, diminutive Victorian fob seal in the form of a silver toga-clad monkey sitting atop a gold base. His eyes are set with tiny cabochon garnets. The base is formed from a faceted carnelian and has never been engraved. Tested and guaranteed silver and 18K.

Origin: Probably France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, all original, no engraving on seal. Dimensions: 9/16” x 7/16” x 1” tall. Weight: 4.2 gr.

Beautiful purplish rhodolite garnets sparkle from the engraved tops of these earrings with foxtail tassels. Each tassel terminates in a small golden ball. These tassels have substantial weight and are unusual for having gemstones set at the top. Stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Excellent condition.
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" from top of wire.
• Weight: 7.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 1.72 carats.

A Victorian 14K yellow gold and coral pendant necklace in the Etruscan Revival taste. The central plaque is enhanced with a pair of natural color coral beads and suspends torpedo drops and a chain swag. The plaque was originally a brooch, but it has been given new life as an elegant necklace! Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, circa 1860,
• Condition: Excellent.
• Dimensions: overall length, 17"; pendant, 1" x 1.5".
• Weight: 5.2 grams.

A fine pair of French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the double faces in the form of snarling mythological griffins. The details are beautifully worked. Mythological beasts such as griffins, dragons and sphinxes were especially popular in Art Nouveau jewels by French makers. Each cufflink has one face that is smaller than the other so that it can more easily be slipped through the cuff hole. Each cufflink is hallmarked with the French “tete d’aigle”stamp for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: full faces, 17/32” diameter; smaller faces, 17/32” x 7/16”. Weight: 8.0 grams.

A beautiful Art Nouveau bracelet worked in 18K yellow gold featuring oval blue sapphire cabochons accented with laurel wreath settings and alternating floral plaque links. The gold is very finely worked. The sapphires have medium dark, strong blue color (B6/5) and eye-clean clarity. They show no indications of heat treatment. The bracelet is completed with a concealed box clasp. The clasp is stamped with French gold hallmarks used outside Paris 1847-1919. The maker’s mark is partly obscured, but we have seen the mark before (the goldsmith must have used a damaged punch, because his marks are always partially missing) on expertly-made heavy gold items with intricate piercing, often set with cabochon gemstones, from around 1880-1900.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/8” wide; 7 -1/4” long. Weight: 11.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.6 cts.

A wonderful Victorian 18K gold and jet watch chain that has been converted to a bracelet. The bracelet comprises variously-shaped baton and spherical beads. The original carved spherical watch fob and the crossbar dangle freely from the bracelet. The watch fob is carved in a stylized foliate pattern against a matte background. The spring ring is stamped "14K"; other elements are tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Era: ca. 1890
• Length: 7 3/8" (easily extended, if needed, with additional gold links).
• Condition: very good; one of the long beads has a 1/8" flake at one end and another long bead has a 1/16" flake at one end, but neither are easily visible without very close inspection.

A very pretty pair of Shakudo earrings in the form of partially folded fans. The dark metal surfaces are delicately enhanced with silver cranes amid gold plum blossoms, rocks and tree stumps. The crane was used in Japanese art to symbolize longevity. The fans are suspended from 18K rose gold wires. After the collapse of the feudal system in Japan, the artists who created elaborately decorated swords turned to jewelry as a way to express their creativity. Sometimes shakudo pieces were turned into jewelry with the addition of later mountings, but in this case the earring fittings appear to be original. It is also rather unusual for shakudo jewelry to have gold findings rather than silver.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: maximum width 11/16”; 1-11/16” long to top of earwire.

A nice quality and heavy 18K gold watch key enhanced with black enamel and seed pearls suspending a pair of foxtail chain tassels and a dog clip clasp. This was originally the cross bar and fob attachments for a Victorian watch chain. With the entire assembly attached to a necklace using the existing jump ring, the key and and tassels would make stunning "charms" and another charm of your choice could be attached to the dog clip. This last charm could be changed up depending on your mood! Stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Dimensions: watch key, 1 1/2" long; longer tassel, 1 11/16"
• Weight: 7.9 grams.
• Condition: excellent.

A very fine Victorian 14K gold stickpin, the head set with a round hardstone cameo depicting a pheasant. The cameo is worked in banded white and brown agate. The carving shows a pheasant running along the ground amidst underbrush, and has superb detail. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, some waviness to pin shaft, no damage to cameo. Size: overall length, 2-13/16”; head, 13/16” diameter. Weight: 4.0 grams.

A beautiful enameled oval locket in 18K gold, the cover decorated with a wreath of blue enameled forget-me-nots, each centered with a small rose cut diamond, against a black background. The design is encircled with additional black taille d’epargne enameling. The back is also decorated with blue forget-me-nots surrounded with taille d’epargne enameling and has a shield-shaped reserve that was never monogrammed. In Victorian floriography (the "language of flowers") forget-me-nots represented faithfulness, true love, and remembrance. The exposed gold surfaces on both the front and back are enhanced with engraved and stippled decoration. The interior retains the original glass covers and photos of two 19th century gentlemen. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold marks.Origin: France, ca. 1855

Condition: excellent, less than 5% loss to taille d’epargne enamel, mostly on the back

Dimensions: 15/16” x 1-3/8” (excluding bail and jump ring)

Weight: 13.2 grams

Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat

A very good French Art Nouveau 18K gold watch pin in the form of a mythological creature that appears to be a dragon with outspread feathered wings. The details are beautifully worked. The reverse is engraved to match the front. The creature grasps an antique cushion cut diamond in its jaws. The pin retains its original watch hook on the back. This piece could easily and inexpensively be transformed into a pendant with the additional of two pendant hooks at the wingtips. The back is marked with French 18K gold hallmarks, an illegible master goldsmith’s mark, and a design number indicating that the piece was made by a renowned maker of the period.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-1/8”
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat
• Weight: 12.7 grams

A beautiful French silver-topped 18K yellow gold floral pin from the era of Emperor Napoleon III. The pin is designed as a spray of three flower buds, each just about to open into a different color. The flowers are bead-set with rose cut diamonds, and the colors are represented by rows of cushion and round cut sapphires, rubies and emeralds. Each bud is centered by a larger rectangular cushion cut diamond set in prongs. A pair of diamond-set leaves and a small diamond-set bud appear below. The bottom of the sprig is also bead-set with diamonds. The top surfaces of the gold are covered in silver to heighten the appeal of the diamonds, in keeping with the mid-19th century practice. Realistic floral spray jewelry became very popular because of the extraordinary pieces commissioned by the Empress Eugenie from Bapst. The back retains the original c-clasp and extended pinstem (stamped with the French “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold).

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/4” x 1-3/16”. Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .981 carat; sapphire, .126 carat; ruby, .147 carat; emerald, .085 carat.

Wonderful French 18K gold stickpin in the form of a dragon. The detail is incredible. Raised up on his hind legs, with his wings unfurled, the dragon is exhaling tongues of flame. His tail is curled around several times before circling completely around the body to form the circular outline of the stickpin's head. The texture of the feathery wings and scaly body is superb. The back is marked with French hallmarks for 18K gold and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: head, 9/16" diameter; overall length, 3-1/16". Weight: 3.5 grams.

A fun piece of sporting jewelry depicting a crossed pair of croquet mallets and a coral ball inside the wicket. The banded agate stone is black with a single white line and has never been engraved. Croquet became fashionable among the English elite in 1856 when when the first book of croquet rules was published and the All England Croquet Club was formed at Wimbledon. The fob is stamped “10 ct.”

• Origin: England, ca. 1860
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 9/16” x 1-1/4 (excluding jump rings)
• Weight: 5.0 grams.

A lovely small Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the cover decorated with the unusual subject of a squirrel. The little fellow is depicted sitting upright munching on an acorn. The front cover is finished with a ropetwist border. The interior retains its original frame and glass insert. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail to the front; the back has a few very minor dings visible in raking light. Dimensions: 13/16" x 3/4" excluding bale. Weight: 3.8 grams.

A lovely 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau bracelet comprising a series of round floral plaques, each hinged separately for comfort. The center five plaques are set with a round brilliant cut ruby at the middle of each blossom. The rubies have a strong purplish-red color that contrasts nicely with the yellow gold. Each plaque is pierced around the flower petals for added delicacy. The concealed clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 7-1/2” long; 1/2” wide. Weight: 12.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.02 cts.

A very nice Victorian 9K gold buckle ring, fully engraved with an ornate floral and foliate pattern against a stippled background. The gold has faint rose tint. The ring shows almost no wear. The width of the band and larger finger size make this ring ideal for man. The interior of the shank is fully stamped with Chester hallmarks for 1896.

Origin: England, 1896. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 7/16" at the buckle, tapering to 5/32" at the back. Finger Size: 9-3/4. Weight: 4.5 gr.

A very fine Victorian 14K yellow gold chain necklace made of fancy open-work links with diamond plaque appliques alternating with reeded circular links. The reeded surfaces gift the gold a soft, shimmering appearance rather highly reflective. The large spring ring can be used simply as a clasp or to suspend and locket or pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1/2" wide; 20-1/2” long. Weight: 29.5 gr.

Attractive pair of Victorian cufflinks, the lozenge-shaped faces enhanced with black taille d’epargne enamel applied in a diagonal checkerboard fashion. The space between each crossing of enamel is filled with a seed pearl. The overall effect is very sophisticated, with a strong graphic element. The faces are connected by chains to football backs. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, no dings, all original. Size: faces, 13/16” x 5/8”. Weight: 7.5 grams.