Catalog (2481)

A very rare Art Nouveau Mardi Gras ball favor jewel in 14K gold depicting Greek goddess. The exposed areas of gold have a soft "bloomed" finish typical of higher quality Art Nouveau jewels that constrasts beautifully with the translucent enamels. The back is stamped "14K" and is engraved "COMUS 1908."

The Mystick Crewe of Comus is the oldest and most exclusive of New Orleans' Mardi Gras organizations. The theme selected for the 1908 event was "Gods & Goddesses." Favors were bestowed on the ladies in attendance. Usually, these were inexpensive items, but in 1908, the "trinket" were these lovely gold pins.

• Origin: America, 1908
• Condition: excellent, no enamel loss
• Dimensions: 1" x 7/8"
• Weight: 5.5 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau honeymoon pin in 14K yellow gold featuring an enameled violet centered with a small old European cut diamond. The petals are are worked in delicate shades of purple, cream marroon and are finished with repousse gold borders frequently sometimes seen in Larter enamels. In the Victorian flower language, the combination of a crescent moon shape with a flower was suggestive of the word "honeymoon." Small pins such as this were popular gifts for a new bride. The back is stamped with Larter's 14K hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel loss
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 9/16"
• Weight: 2.0 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .03 carat

A delicate Art Nouveau 10K gold pin featuring a pansy decorated with translucent violet, pink and cream enameled. The flower center and a bud are set with small seed pearls. The brooch retains its original pinstem and clasp stamped "10K." In Victorian flower language, the pansy conveyed the meaning "Think of me." Small pins such as this were popular gifts for new brides.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: very good; a small enamel flake to the tip of one petal (superficial only and does not affect the color)
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 1-1/8"
• Weight 2.5 grams.

A lovely conversion ring featuring a a guilloche enamel plaque centered with a blue sapphire cabochon. The pale blue translucent enamel is accented with engine-turned engraving and is surrounded by a border of opaque white enamel with gold accents. The ring was created from an Edwardian stickpin with the addition of a 14K gold shank (the front is 18K).

• Origin: France, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: crown, 1/2" diameter
• Finger Size: 6-3/4
• Approximate Sapphire Weight: .13 ct
• Weight: 2.3 grams

Very fine, heavy, fully three-dimensional 18K yellow gold figural brooch in the form of a 420 Class racing sailboat by Fred of Paris. It can also be worn as a pendant. The mast is fully Bermuda-rigged with beautifully detailed sails worked in contrasting matte and polished gold. Two figures are hiking out over the edge of the hull and waves lap at the sides. The 420 Class was designed in 1959 and became the leading training vessel for Olympic-class boats. Fred designed a series of brooches depicting popular European racing sailboats such as the "420" and the "Flying Dutchman". The bottom of the hull is stamped with French "tete d'aigle" hallmarks for 18K and with an obscured maker's mark. The back retains the original pinstem and trombone clasp.

• France, ca 1965
• Excellent condition, sharp detail, all original
• 1-1/4" x 1-7/8"
• 11.7 grams.

An exceptionally fine Pampillonia 18K gold brooch in the form of a running thoroughbred horse mounted by a jockey. The workmanship is simply outstanding. Every detail of the horse's flying tail and the musculature underlying the coat are beautifully worked. The folds and wrinkles of the jockey's silks are equally detailed. The horse's eye is set with a small round ruby and the hoof of a hind leg touches on a .18-carat round brilliant cut diamond, graded as J color, SI2 clarity. The use of a yellow-green gold is an inspired choice that somehow keeps the rather heavy brooch from appearing overwhelming. The pin is unsigned, but is definitely by Pampillonia. Marked 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 2010
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 2-3/8"
• Weight: 30.8 grams

A fine pair of French 18K gold, enamel and sapphire cufflinks. The round faces are decorated with champleve enamel in a soft translucent French blue shade surrounded by a border of opaque white with gold accents. Each face is centered with a sapphire sugarloaf cabochon. The faces are connected with chains to gold torpedo backs. Each cufflink is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1/2" diameter
• Weight: 7.0 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .26 carat

A nice Victorian 18K gold locket, the front cover featuring a lioness shown in profile. She is enhanced with a bright emerald eye and grasps an old mine cut diamond in her mouth. The back is engraved with a period three-letter monogram. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Dimensions: 1" diameter
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail on the lion; two pinpoint dings on the back cover
• Weight: 8.7 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold enameled pin with swirling foliage surrounding a bezel-set amethyst. The enamel is worked in delicate translucent shades of violet, cream and green. Small seed pearls flank the nicely-colored amethyst. The clasp is marked with Krementz' 14K hallmark.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pin set with an aquamarine and enameled in shades of blue and green (Item #1414818)

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 9/16"
• Weight: 3.6 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: .75 carat.

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold enameled pin with swirling foliage surrounding a bezel-set aquamarine. The enamel is worked in delicate translucent enamel in shades of blue, green and cream. Small seed pearls flank the nicely-colored aquamarine. The clasp is marked with Krementz' 14K hallmark.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pin set with an amethyst and enameled in shades of violet (Item #1414819)

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; two 1/16" enamel nicks barely visible without magnification
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 9/16"
• Weight: 3.25 grams
• Approximate Total Aquamarine Weight: .7 carat.

A Victorian 14K gold ring featuring an oval garnet cabochon surrounded by a laurel wreath border. The 10 x 7 mm garnet has very attractive coloring that contrasts nicely with the gold setting. Originally a stickpin, a 14K gold shank has been added.

• Origin: America, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: crown 9/16" x 7/16"
• Finger Size: 6-3/4
• Weight: 2.3 grams

A nice 14K yellow gold and diamond ring, conversed from a lapel pin, in the form of a maze. The round brilliant cut diamond lies at the center of the maze. A fun ring perfect for the meditator or mystic! The back is marked "Josten 14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Finger Size: 6-3/4
• Dimensions: 5/8" diameter
• Weight: 4.8 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat

An outstanding 18K gold begging poodle pin, the shaved parts of the body represented by a carved carnelian and the head set with an emerald eye and a ruby tongue. The back is finished with a hinged double clip. The pin is stamped with French 18K hallmarks and an illegible maker's mark. It is also marked "18K."

• Origin: France, ca 1950
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 2-1/8" x 1-1/8"
• Weight: 21.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .09 carat; emerald, .07 carat

A particularly nice mid-century 14K yellow begging poodle pin, the eyes, nose and tongue set with bright cabochon rubies. The dog is completed with a white gold collar set with diamonds. The gold has a Florentine finish to represent the clipped areas of fur. The brightness of the rubies and the perky attitude sets this poodle pin apart. The clasp is marked "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1950
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-3/4” x 1”
• Weight: 11.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .1 carat; ruby, .4 carat

Art nouveau 14K gold and enamel circle pin in the form of stylized orchid blossoms enameled in iridescent lavender and cream. This pin is a nice example of how Art Nouveau sensibilities took a standard Victorian design=--the circle pin--and gave it a new aesthetic appeal. The clasp is marked "14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; all original
• Dimensions: 15/16" diameter
• Weight: 3.5 grams

A classic Victorian honeymoon brooch in 14K yellow gold. The traditional crescent shape supports a gold violet enameled in rich shades of rose, purple and cream and accented with green veining on the petals. The flower is centered with a small ruby. In Victorian flower language, the crescent shape represented “moon” and the flower represented sweetness or “honey”, thus “honeymoon”. Pins such as this were popular gifts from grooms to their new brides. The original early safety clasp has an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: very good; a 1/16” flake on the tip of one flower petal; the pinstem is an early gold-filled replacement
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 3/4"
• Weight: 2.5 grams.

An extraordinarily fine and rare Art Nouveau sporting brooch featuring an enameled fox head superimposed over a horseshoe, a riding crop and a whip. The horseshoe is set with old mine cut diamonds simulating the nails. The fox's eyes are set with rubies. The pin is beautifully enameled in lifelike colors. The fox's mouth is open to show fierce jagged gold teeth. An identical brooch was featured in the "Masterpieces of American Jewelry" exhibition held in 2005 at the Museum of American Folk Art in New York. It is also published in the exhibition book by the same name. The pin in unmarked, but is a known Alling Bros. design.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 15/16" x 1-15/16"
• Weight: 6.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .05 carat; diamond, .10 carat

A fine vintage Tiffany & Co stylized leaf brooch worked in 18K gold and set with sapphires and diamonds. The elegant form is created from wirework that gives the brooch a light feeling despite its generous size. Tiffany employed this gold wire construction to simulate feathers, animal fur and other natural textures. The gems are prong set above the gold background for added dimension. The diamonds are G color, VS1 clarity; the sapphires have medium-dark, strongly saturated blue violet-blue color. The back has a two-prong fur clip and is marked "Tiffany & Co".

• Origin: America, ca. 1965
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 1-3/8"
• Weight: 10.8 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: apphire, .56 carat; diamond, .50 carat.