Catalog (2481)

A fine Victorian 14K gold fob locket, the front cover worked in a deeply three dimensional design of a rose gold owl perched on a green gold branch. The eyes are set with garnet cabochons. The back cover has an engraved shield design that was never monogrammed. The hinged bail is engraved in a complimentary design. The interior of the locket retains its original frame and glass insert.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 7/8" x 1-3/8" (not including jump ring). Weight: 13.7 grams.

An 18K yellow gold buckle ring enhanced with enamel in Gucci's trademark Kelly green. The simplicity of the design is classic Gucci. The interior of the shank is signed "Gucci 18" Italy".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1970. Dimensions: shank, 3/16" wide. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 3.4 grams.

A pair of truly exceptional Shakudo cufflinks, the faces being a matched pair of mixed-metal plaques representing all the signs of the Chinese and Japanese Zodiac, including tigers, boars, dragons, rats, roosters, rabbits, snakes, oxen, dogs, monkeys, sheep and horses. The detail work is amazing and the design is one of the most complex we've seen. The plaques are mounted on custom-fitted 950 silver backs with toggle mechanisms. The shakudo plaques date to the 19th century Meiji period and the silver fittings are around 1950.

Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent, original patina, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 5/8". Weight: 12.2 grams.

An interesting pair of American sterling silver Art Deco cufflinks, each face featuring a stylized leaf. The design has a deeply three-dimensional sculptural quality. The design appears to be in the Skonvirke style--the Scandinavian expression of Art Nouveau, but the cufflinks are definitely American. The back of each face is signed "NAE" or "MAE" and the toggles are marked "Sterling".

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 13/16" diameter. Weight: 12.1 grams.

A lovely and very unusual locket in the Art Nouveau style. A large central crystal is surrounded by whiplash curves of 15K yellow gold studded with variously sized seed pearls and blue sapphires. Double-sided crystal lockets of this sort ("porte-photos") are typically French and are of a much simpler design. The reverse is stamped "15Ct".

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no chips or scratches to crystal. Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 2". Weight: 11.2 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .55 ct.

A very heavy 18K yellow gold bracelet worked in the form of interlaced knots, the center of each set with an old mine cut diamond. The diamonds are set in silver in the traditional manner of the 19th century. The stones have good J/K color and SI1 clarity. At 8-1/4" long the bracelet is very generously sized. The box clasp is marked "Waler 18K".

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Weight: 41.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 ct.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks designed by Kieselstein-Cord to represent ancient Greek coins. The faces are decorated with images of horses, the animal sacred to the goddess Pallas Athena, and images similar to this often appear on the obverse of ancient coins minted in Athens. The surfaces and edges of the face a distressed and patinated to resemble truly ancient coins. Even the closing mechanism is designed in a way to suggest great age. Kiselstein-Cord made a small line of jewelry inspired by ancient Greek coins in the late 1980s, but the designs are very difficult to find now. Each cufflink is fully signed and marked for 18K.

Origin: Germany, 1988. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 25/32" x 21/32". Weight: 14.5 grams.

A very pretty pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold earrings set with pearls and seed pearls. The main bodies hang freely from the surmounts, and the bottom edges suspend free-hanging pearls, providing a lot of movement when being worn. The delicate scroll work makes a nice counterpoint to the simplicity of the pearls. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 5/8” x 1-3/4” long (from top of wire). Weight: 6.8 grams.

A beautiful Art Nouveau pendant necklace featuring a drop centering an oval opal surrounded by a wreath of translucent green-enameled laurel leaves. Further enameling accents the bottom and top of the drop. The pendant also incorporates pearls that are echoed at intervals along the chain. The natural pearls along the chain alternate in shades of vivid, pale pink and bluish-white. The opal has fine play of color, mostly in the blue and green parts of the spectrum with some flashes of orange and red. The chain is constructed so the necklace can be worn at 15-1/2” or 14-1/2” lengths (it could easily be lengthened). The pendant is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, clasp replaced, no enamel damage. Dimensions: pendant drop, 1-1/4” x 2-1/8”. Weight: 6.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: opal, 1.56 cts.

An 18K white gold ring in classic Van Cleef & Arpels style, set with round brilliant diamonds and round sapphires. The sapphires are intensely colored and have eye-clean clarity. The diamonds are E/F color and VVS2 clarity. The interior of the shank is signed and bears complete serial numbers, maker’s mark and French 18K guarantee stamps.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 8.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.00 ct; diamond, .24 ct.

A beautifully-designed Victorian ball locket enhanced with rose-cut diamonds. The two strap-like decorative elements on either side of the locket lift away, allowing the sphere to be unfolded into a locket accommodating six photos. The sphere is bisected by a band of rose-cut diamonds enhanced with engraving on either side. The original bail is set with rose-cut diamonds. As is typical of French jewels of the period, the diamonds are set in silver over the gold. Ball lockets with multiple panels are extremely rare, and this example is of particularly fine quality. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Dimensions: 7/8” diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 15.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .33 ct.

A handsome pair of 14K white gold cufflinks, each face formed from a plaque of lapis surrounded by smaller lapis batons. The canted corners are set with round brilliant-cut diamonds, as are the centers of the faces. The diamonds are graded as H/I color and SI1 clarity. The lapis is finely colored with only a minimal amount of the mica inclusions. The toggle backs are marked “585” for 14K.

Origin: probably Europe, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32” x 1/2". Weight: 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 ct.

A very fine Victorian festoon necklace worked in 14K yellow gold and set with variously cut amethysts and tiny seed pearls. The central element features two oval and one antique cushion cut amethysts suspending a large antique cushion cut amethyst flanked by a pair of pear-shaped drops and further suspending a more triangular pear-shaped drop. Each of the stones is set in an ornate ropetwist, beaded and scrolled setting in the Etruscan Revival taste. The chain itself is handmade in an equally ornate style of s-scrolls and beading. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 16.5” long; central element, 2.5” long. Weight: 14.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 31.05 cts.

A handsome pair of Art Deco multistone cufflinks, the emerald cut green tourmaline, amethyst, yellow citrine and orange citrine simply set in yellow gold bezels. The stones have rich, even coloring, excellent brilliance and very good clarity. The faces and removable connectors are stamped with an unidentified maker's mark "MV in a hexagon" and "585" for 14K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 17/32" x 7/16". Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 6.28 cts; amethyst, 6.48 cts; citrine, 9.8 cts.

A fine pair of Boucheron cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold, the oval faces centered with richly-colored citrines. The gold surfaces are worked in a wavy ridged pattern, and the citrines are ingenuously fantasy-cut in the same style. The quality of workmanship is evidenced in the manner in which the carving of the citrines matches exactly to the ridges of the gold settings where the two meet. THe backs are hinged. The connectors are fully marked with Boucheron's retailer and marker's mark, the 18K gold standard and serial numbers.

Origin: France. Dimensions: front faces, 1/2" x 5/8". Weight: 16.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.96 cts.

A handsome pair of French Art Deco cufflinks, the faces worked in platinum centering sugarloaf cabochons of moonstone surrounded by rose cut diamonds. The moonstones have matte finish more often used with rock crystal, and the underlying, bright, billowy adularescence creates a very attractive effect. At some point, 18K white gold backs and connecting chains were added. Though there are no maker's marks to substantiate it, the overall quality of design and execution suggests an important maker such as Cartier.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: faces, excellent; replaced connecting chains and backs. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 5.8 cts; diamond, .60 cts.

A very rare pair of Art Nouveau silver cufflinks, the round faces decorated with fine renderings of a bicycle racer in the medallion style. Some of the leading French sculptors of the day created such medallions for various sporting events and government functions. The faces are signed, but illegibly so. The backs are fully hallmarked for silver.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32" diameter. Weight: 9.4 grams.

An elegant pair of French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold earrings designed in a openwork pattern of irises. The flowers and foliage are highlighted with delicate engraving. The gold surfaces are enhanced with the soft matte texture typical of French jewels of the period. The wires appear to be replacements and are stamped with French 18K marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" 3/4". Weight: 4.7 grams.

A very fine and heavy Venetian Etruscan 18K yellow gold fob charm in a modified teardrop form. The bottom of the charm is set with a large turquoise oval cabochon (12x9.5mm) surmounted by rows of square aquamarines, smaller turquoise round cabochons and round brilliant cut garnets. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with ornate wirework. This is one of the highest-quality Venetian Etruscan charms we've seen. The jump ring is marked for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 7/8" x 1-5/8" (excluding jump ring). Weight: 17.1 grams.

A very handsome, heavy 18K yellow gold ring set with a rectangular cushion cut synthetic ruby. The angularity of the setting is particularly attractive. The use of synthetic rubies in the era immediately after World War II is very typical, and this ring would have been expensive. Such stones are often an unattractive, bright orangey-red color. This ruby has a deeper red color modified with a little purple for a very rich look. The stone is well cut, with very good brilliance. The interior of the shank is engraved "Y.M. 9 Decembre 1950", and the back of the shank is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: crown, 15/32" x 3/4". Weight: 11.7 grams. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 1.64 ct.

A classic pair of Art Deco sterling silver cufflinks by Gaetan de Percin, the jeweler responsible for most of the Hermes jewelry designs in the 1930s and 40s. This style, in the form of equestrian stirrups or "etrier" is a classic design created around 1940. Aside from Hermes, De Percin made variations of this design for prestigious houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany, Chanel, Dior and Boucheron. The cufflinks are marked with French silver hallmarks and with the master's mark of De Percin.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 11/16" x 5/8". Weight: 15.7 grams.

A classic Pforzheim school silver Jugendstil brooch decorated with plique-a-jour enamels, moldavite and seed pearls. The translucent enamels have the velvety texture and very subtle coloring typical of many Pforzheim jewels of the period. The reverse is marked "Depose 900" and has the maker's mark for Karl Hermann (Hermann & Speck), one of the leading German Art Nouveau jewelers.

Origin: Germany, ca. 1900. Condition: very good, some light crazing to enamel, but no unstable or missing pieces. Dimension: 1-1/4" x 1-3/8". Weight: 5.2 grams.

An elegant pair of Art Nouveau floral double-sided floral cufflinks worked in 20K yellow gold. The faces are very finely hand-chased with an ornate pattern of daisies. The high gold content gives the cufflinks are very bright yellow color and heavy weight. The connecting chains are marked with an illegible maker's mark and a continental European mark for 20K.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 13/16" x 11/32". Weight: 7.8 grams.

A wonderful pair of late Victorian or early Edwardian sterling silver bean-back cufflinks, the oval faces cast with a delightful image of a beagle. The dog appears to be sitting in a basket with his paws hanging over the top edge. The detail is very nice. Tested and guaranteed sterling silver.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/4" x 1/2". Weight: 14.8 grams.

A heavy 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm in a crown form, set with five oval brilliant cut amethysts and four pearls. The amethysts have nice intense coloring and good clarity. The gold surfaces are ornately decorated with ropetwists and rosettes. Marked 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" x 1-1/16" x 1-3/16" (excluding jump ring). Weight: 11.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 11.83 cts.

A superb 6.42 carat natural star ruby set into a late Retro 18K yellow and white gold mounting. The ruby is color-graded as medium-dark, moderately strong purple-red (R/P 6/4). The ruby has fine clarity, without eye-visible inclusions. The cut has excellent symmetry and a high dome, resulting in a well-centered bright star with straight, evenly spaced, long rays. The ruby is set in a very attractive 18K yellow gold setting with geometric white gold accents. The interior of the shank is stamped "18K 750".

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 11. Dimensions: 1/2" wide at crown, tapering to 3/8" at back of shank. Weight: 8.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.42 carats (by measurement).

An attractive 14K yellow gold ring with a double row of channel-set calibre-cut blue sapphires arranged in a swag design. The ribbed gold surfaces further add to the ring's sense of movement. The sapphires are well-matched and have good, saturated color. The interior of the shank is marked "14K."

Origin: America. Dimensions: 7/16" wide at crown, tapering to 3/32" at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 5. Weight: 3.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .75 ct.

A beautiful hyacinth bulb vase by the Boston & Sandwich Glass Company, decorated in opaque overlay cut to clear in in a panel and trailing vine design. The top is enhanced with a cobalt blue lip and the bottom is slightly footed and star-cut. The overall form is very elegant. The shape was blown in the company's #123 mold and the cutting is identical to known labeled pieces. Vases of this shape were used to hold a single flowering bulb, usually a hyacinth, but sometimes a daffodil or tulip.

Origin: America, ca. 1860. Condition: very good; a 1/4" flake to the white overlay at the edge of one panel. Dimensions: 5-1/4" tall.

A very nice mauchline ware wooden hinged box decorated with seven Washington, DC scenes. American scenes are more difficult to find than English or Scottish scenes, and to find seven different images of the Washington DC area is most uncommon. The box retains its original blue silk lining. With the exception of Mount Vernon, all the buildings had been completed only 5-15 years before this piece was produced.

Origin: Scotland, ca. 1890. Dimensions: 7 x 4-7/8 x 3-7/8 inches.

An elegant pair of past-colored multi-gem earrings set in 18K white gold by Asprey. From the "Daisy" collection, these dangling earrings feature a flower blossom of blue topaz, pink tourmaline, peridot and amethyst petals surrounding a center diamond. A cascading ribbon of matching gemstones descends from the flower. The stones are set so minimal metal shows from the front to add to the delicate appearance. The earrings are signed Asprey and are marked for 18K gold. They are presented in their original suede-lined leather box from Asprey. The original retail price in 2007 was $6500.

Dimensions: 1-5/8" long. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: blue topaz, 2.64 cts; pink tourmaline, 1.26 cts; amethyst, 1.08 cts; peridot, .88 ct; diamond, .10 ct. Weight: 8.4 grams.

A pretty pair of Art Deco 12K yellow gold, coral and pearl tassel earrings. Lengths of gold chain studded with small pearls and coral beads hang freely from the pearl surmounts. The coral has attractive, uniform color and the semi-baroque pearls have especially bright luster. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn and would have paired nicely with the long chains and fringed gowns fashionable in the 1920s. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold (clutches are 14K).

Origin: England, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, except one pearl that has a flake to the nacre visible upon close inspection. Dimensions: 1-3/8" long. Weight: 3.9 grams.

A stunning 18K yellow gold festoon necklace featuring dozens of ornately intertwined swags and drops studded with small natural pearls and Mediterranean coral beads. The necklace is finished with an Etruscan style box clasp of the sort associated with Luigi Pallotti e Fratelli, one of the most exclusive jewelers in late 19th century Venice. This particular style of festoon necklace is particularly associated with his work. Pallotti exhibited successfully at the World' Colombian Exposition in Chicago in 1893. The clasp is stamped with Venetian gold marks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: overall length, 14-1/2"; length of center drop, 2-1/2". Weight: 22.8 grams.

A stunning Victorian butterfly brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and silver. The body comprises a cabochon garnet inset with a rose cut diamond, all set between a pair of bright green emerald eyes and a tapering tail of natural pearls The delicately pierced wings are set with 24 rose cut diamonds, two rubies, two emeralds and eight blue sapphires. The butterfly is completed with gold legs and antennae. The brooch is beautifully made. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, the original c-clasp has been replaced with a safety clasp. Dimension: 1-5/8" x 1-1/2". Weight: 14.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.79 carats.

A fine Edwardian platinum and natural saltwater pearl necklace. The strand comprises 72 natural pearls of graduated sizes (3.7 to 5.0 mm) strung between platinum links. The pearls have symmetrical button shape, white body color with cream overtones, and excellent luster. The pearls are well-matched for size and quality throughout the strand. The necklace is finished with replaced 18K white gold clasp.

The necklace is accompanied by a gemological report from the Laboratoire Français de Gemmologie indicating that the pearls are natural saltwater.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, replaced clasp as noted. Dimensions: 17-5/8" long. Weight: 10.7 grams.

An important artist-designed 18K yellow gold and emerald ring by Maison Gennari of Paris. The ring is styled in the Art Nouveau taste, with a voluptuous mermaid surrounded by waves and seaweed. She leans against a pair of cabochon emeralds, whose green color reinforces the watery feeling of the design. The ring is stamped with French 18K marks and is signed by Maison Gennari.

Francois Gennari was a jeweler who collaborated with sculptors to create one-of-a-kind jewels. The works were displayed at the Galerie Gennari at 25, rue Bonaparte in Paris. Gennari primarily used the lost-wax method, insuring that each piece is virtually unique.

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Dimensions: shank tapers from 9/32" to 5/8" wide. Finger Size: 6. Weight: 18.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.24 cts.

An Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold pin featuring a beautifully enameled morning glory enclosed in a gold whiplash frame. The flower petals and leaves have very fine enameling in translucent shades of rose, cream and green. The enamel has the iridescent finish more often seen in the best quality enameled pieces from Newark workshops. A small pearl peeks out the top of the morning glory. The gold frame is set with rows of rose cut diamonds. Since the morning glory opens and withers in a single day, some charts of Victorian flower language say the flower was used to represent "love in vain." The pinstem is stamped "18Ct".

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1". Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .36 carat.