Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1390)

A stunning 14K white gold filigree ring featuring rose and yellow gold appliques enclosing a stunning 7.09 ct oval amethyst. The gemstone has the distinctive lilac-pink tones of stones from Brazil called “rose de France,” but with very strong saturation that sets this particular stone apart. While the crown of the ring is of distinctly Art Nouveau style, the shank—enhanced at the shoulders with rose and yellow gold—has a more angular Art Deco feel. The interior of the ring is stamped “BL 14K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1930
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4” x 5/8”
• Finger Size: 7-3/4
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 7.09 cts
• Weight: 5.7 g

A nice Edwardian silver flat curb link watch chain with alternating sections of gilt and snakeskin niello links. The chain is finished with a dog clip at one end and a large spring-ring bolt at the other. The chain is stamped with Swiss 900 silver marks used 1917-1934.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca 1920
• Condition: excellent
• Length: 10-1/4”
• Weight: 19.7 g

An amazing 18K gold and enamel locket made in celebration of Switzerland’s sexcentennial (600th anniversary) celebration in 1891. Made as either a commissioned jewel for the wife of a government dignitary or as a “Grand Tour” souvenir, this locket is likely a unique piece. The front cover is worked in Swiss enamels depicting eleven of the Swiss cantons surrounded a center reserve featuring the coat of arms of the Swiss Confederation. The reverse is decorated with the coats of arms of the remaining eleven cantons that existed at the time of the celebration surrounded a bouquet of forget-me-nots. The flower is often used to symbolize the message “think of me” in Victorian jewelry, but in this case, also as a reminder that they grow abundantly in Switzerland’s alpine meadows. The locket’s edges are finished in a black enamel trail of ivy leaves and vines. Exposed gold surfaces are finished with a stippled texture. The locket’s interior retains the original frames, glass covers and Kelly green silk lining. The ornately pierced jump ring is also original. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Switzerland (likely Geneva), ca 1891
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage or dings
• Dimensions: 1-5/16” x 2-5/16” (including jump ring)
• Weight: 32.2 g

An Edwardian lion locket exceptional for its very large size. The deeply three-dimensions lion’s head features a pair of ruby eyes and a brilliant cut diamond grasped in the jaws. The surrounding surfaces have a softly bloomed texture. The reverse is engraved with a period “AK” monogram. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920
• Condition: excellent, no dings
• Diameter: 1-1/2”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .20 ct; diamond, .25 ct
• Weight: 15.1 g

A very unusual Art Nouveau 14K gold brooch in the form of a puffed heart clasped by a winged dragon. The heart is enhanced with repousse floral decoration and is centered with a seed pearl. The griffin clasps a second seed pearl in its jaws. Griffins were often used in jewelry to represent the concept of “protection.” When paired with a heart, the meaning could be conceived as “protecting love.” The back retains the original watch hook, and the clasp appears to be a replacement. The pin could easily be converted for wear as a pendant with the addition of a loop at the tip of each wing. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-7/16” x 13/16”
• Weight: 3.3 g

A beautiful late Retro bracelet worked in 14K yellow gold from the esteemed German jeweler Lotos. Founded in Pforzheim in 1872, the house focused entirely on fine jewelry until the late 1950s when it began making insanely expensive eyeglasses frames in precious metals and set with gemstones. This bracelet dates to the years just after World War II while the company was still focused on fine jewelry. The simple design features contemporary open links studded with perfectly matched emerald cut green tourmalines of exceptional color and strong dichroism (the presence of two distinct shades of green in the same stone when viewed from different angles). The tourmalines each weight just over 2 carats. The hidden clasp is stamped “585” for 14K and is signed “LOTOS.”

• Origin: Germany, ca. 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-3/8 long; 7/16” wide
• Approximate Total Tourmaline Weight: 8.16 cts
• Weight: 22.0 g

A classic modernist silver pendant or charm representing the Zodiac sign Virgo (“la Vierge”). A long-haired maiden holds a lily flower representing purity. The design is worked with a semi-matte finish and is enclosed in a polished frame. The pendant retains its original jump ring. The pendant is stamped with French second-standard (800/1000 pure) silver hallmarks in use before 1962 and an unidentified maker’s mark (A cross P).

• Origin: France, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 25/32” x 25/32” (20 x 20 mm) excluding bail and jump ring
• Weight: 4.6 grams

A classic mid-century silver pendant or charm representing the Zodiac sign Sagittarius (“le Sagittaire”). The pendant shows a gender-neutral person with a bow and arrow. The pendant is also engraved with the classic iconographical arrow symbol for Sagittarius. The pendant retains its original jump ring. The pendant is stamped with French second-standard (800/1000 pure) silver hallmarks in use before 1962 and an unidentified maker’s mark (A cross P).

• Origin: France, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 13/16” excluding bail and jump ring
• Weight; 6.6 grams

A classic modernist silver pendant or charm representing the Zodiac sign Sagittarius (“le Sagittaire”). A long-haired maiden holds a bow and arrow. The design is worked with a semi-matte finish and is enclosed in a highly-polished frame. The pendant retains its original jump ring. The pendant is stamped with French second-standard (800/1000 pure) silver hallmarks in use before 1962 and an unidentified maker’s mark (A cross P).

• Origin: France, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 25/32” x 25/32” (20 x 20 mm) excluding bail and jump ring
• Weight: 4.6 grams

An elegant French 18K yellow gold chain featuring a row of palmettes that create a fringe around the neck when worn. Each is intricately pierced and enhanced with beaded decoration. The palmettes are finished at either of the chain with a row of matching oval links. The chain is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks used until 1919.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: 16” long; 1/2” wide
• Weight: 11.3 g

An elegant Art Nouveau pendant/pin styled as a shooting star. The rays are pave-set with seed pearls, and additional pearls are set at the tips of spikes between each of the rays. The center is set with an old European cut diamond. The back retains the original brooch clasp and folding pendant bail.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Diameter: 1-1/8”
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .10 ct
• Weight: 4.0 g

A classic Retro 18K gold and platinum ring with a special twist—the use of natural “pierres de famille” instead of synthetic stones in modern cuts. The crown of the ring is centered with a good rose cut diamond of about .62 carat (with a face-up appearance of about 1.5 carats) flanked on either side by a graduated pair of cushion cut blue sapphires, and bordered on the outer edges with bands of old mine and old European cut diamonds. The sides of the crown are worked with a pierced gallery. Many Retro jewels were created during the World War II years, hence the frequent use of synthetic gemstones. This ring, however, features natural stones that were repurposed from the owner’s old jewels inherited from family into something more fashionable. The shank is stamped with French 18K gold and platinum hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca 1940
• Condition: excellent, typical wear to surfaces of sapphires
• Dimensions: crown 7/8” long x 5/8” wide tapering to 3/16” at the back of the shank
• Finger Size: 6
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.22 cts; sapphire, 2.76 cts
• Weight: 8.6 g

An elegant 18K yellow gold brooch featuring an image of the water nymph Daphne, who was pursued by the sun god Apollo. His affections were not returned by Daphne and to save her from falling into his arms, Daphne’s father transformed her into a laurel tree. She was so impressed by the genuineness of his mourning, that the Daphne bowed her limbs and allowed Apollo to pluck laurel leaves which he fashioned in his own crown. Here, Daphne is shown wearing a bandeau of old European cut diamonds and with her head surrounded by arches of laurel. The wavy treatment of her flowing hair in the background is suggestive of her water origins. This medallion is almost certainly the work of sculptor Emile-Séraphin Vernier. Most jewels based on Vernier’s designs were made in France, but his designs were also licensed to American jewelers who created pieces in 14K gold. American examples such as this one typically have much heavier weight than their French counterparts. The back retains the original watch hook and pinstem with a replaced clasp. A bail for wear as a pendant could easily be added at the top. The back is also engraved “E.H.S. – S.B.H. 1925.” We believe the brooch is likely a about a decade older, probably around 1910 and that the engraving was when given as later gift. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: America, 1910
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail, replaced clasp
• Dimensions: 31/32” diameter
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 ct
• Weight: 10.3 g

An elegant American Art Nouveau pendant worked in 14K yellow gold, set with natural river pearls and period. The design has a feather-like appearance that is at once substantial and airy. The center heart-shaped peridot is 2.35 cts and the suspended pear-shaped peridot is .94 ct. Both stones have fine coloring and fire. The barrel clasp is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Pendant Dimensions:1-11/16” x 2-1/16”
• Overall Length: 16-1/2”
• Approximate Total Peridot Weight: 3.29 cts
• Weight: 6.8 g

An elegant Art Nouveau necklace featuring a central pendant hanging from a single chysoprase station that in turn hands between two more ornate shield-shaped stations set with chrysoprase cabochons. The central pendant features an oval chrysoprase cabochon enclosed in gold whiplash curves and accented with old mine cut diamonds. The gold surfaces are beautifully enhanced with a snakeskin texture. The pendant also originally had a pinstem so it could be removed from the chain and worn as a brooch. The original hallmark was most likely on the pinstem or its clasp. Given the sophistication of the design and the quality of the workmanship, the necklace is certainly the product of one of the better American makers of the early 20th century. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1915
• Condition: excellent
• Pendant Drop Dimensions: 7/8” x 1-3/4”
• Overall Necklace Length: 17-1/4” (from clasps to central chrysoprase station)
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: chrysoprase, 7.74 cts; diamond, .20 cts
• Weight: 9.7 g

A classic Art Deco round locket worked in platinum and 14K rose gold. Both sides of the locket are divided diagonally into halves of platinum and gold, and on the front cover each of the halves is set with a almandite garnet. At first glance, the garnets look like rubies, but they have a more coppery color that more goes more nicely with the rose gold. The interior retains the original frame, glass and silk liner. Tested and guaranteed 14K and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca 1930
• Condition: excellent
• Diameter: 7/8”
• Approximate Total Garnet Weight: .22 ct
• Weight: 9.3 g

A fine heavy gold bracelet worked in a unisex modified curb link design. The bracelet has lots of movement and is very comfortable to wear despite its impressive weight. The concealed box clasp is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 6-3/7” x 5/8”
• Weight: 59.2 g

An extraordinary Victorian 18K gold hinged bangle bracelet belonging to the eldest daughter of the 9th Duke of Devonshire, Lady Maud Louisa Emma Cavendish, likely custom-made around between 1912-14 to celebrate her debut in society. Lady Maud married in 1917, so the bracelet is definitely prior to that event. The bracelet is entirely worked in a continuous panel of hand sawn foliage, flowers, grapes, and spiky seed pods. The front of the bracelet features the Cavendish coat of arms with three stags’ heads caboshed surmounted by a knight’s helmet barred. The back of the bracelet featured an “M" monogram so intricately worked into the design that it is difficult to see at first. The bracelet is heavy but retains an overall feeling of delicacy and lightness due to the extensive openwork of the design. The tongue of the clasp bears the hallmark of Henri Vever, arguably one of the two or three most important French jewelers of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The hallmark was registered in 1912, not long after the publication of Vever’s authoritative book on the history of French jewelry, La Bijouterie Francaise au XIXe Siècle. By 1912, Vever was well into his Art Nouveau period, but in many circles, certainly those in which the Duke’s family traveled, the Art Nouveau style was considered perhaps a little too risqué for an unmarried young lady. The bracelet is presented in its original velvet- and silk-liked fitted case.

• Origin: France, 1912-1917
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail throughout
• Dimensions: 7/8” wide; 6-3/4” circumference
• Weight: 56.5 g.