Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1390)

A stunning vintage 18K yellow gold ring featuring an outstanding 1.60-carat Burmese ruby surrounded with diamonds by Tiffany & Co. Tiffany has not sold rubies since 1999 due to the U.S. embargo of Myanmar, and the design of this ring suggests it was made in the 1950s or 60s. The inside of the shank is marked “Tiffany & Co.” and “18K”.The ring is presented in its original dark blue velvet, satin-lined ring box marked “Tiffany & Co.”.

The ruby is fashioned in an oval mixed cut, measuring approximately 8.75 x 6.85 x 3.60 mm. The ring is accompanied by GIA origin report indicating that the ruby is of Burmese origin and shows no indications of heat treatment. The stone is a strongly saturated, medium-dark purplish-red color (pR 6/5). The cut displays good brilliance and proportions and a fair surface finish. The pear-shaped brilliant-cut diamonds are estimated at F color, VVS1 clarity.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: light thinning at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 8. Size: 9/16” x 1/2”. Weight: 3.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.60 carats; diamond, 1.33 carats.

A very fine pair of double-sided cufflinks by Seaman Schepps. Each of the faces is made from a single blue sapphire that has been tumbled rather than faceted, and then set in a framework of curling gold wirework. The setting is substantial, yet its delicacy allows the rich violet-blue color and internal characteristics of the sapphires to take center stage. Schepps was among the earliest of American jewelry designers to use cabochon and tumbled stones as primary gemstones. Even after 50 years, his colorful designs still seem completely contemporary. Each cufflinks is marked for 18K gold, is signed with Schepps’ hallmark and has the design serial number. These links originally retailed for $5,500.

Origin: America, ca. 2005. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces approximately, 5/8” x 1/2”. Weight: 12.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 34.0 carats.

A classic pair of Art Deco 18K yellow gold flip-up stirrup cufflinks, the ends set with blue sapphire sugarloaf cabochons. The flip-up stirrup cufflinks were popularized by Cartier during the Art Deco era. The sapphires have dark, vivid blue hue and very good clarity. The cufflinks are signed “Cartier”, have the maker’s mark, the serial number and the French “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: ends, 1/2" x 7/16”; overall length, 1-1/4”. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.96 carats.

An elegant pair of Edwardian 14K gold and platinum double-sided cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. The round faces are set with plaques of black mother of pearl within engraved platinum borders. The faces are centered by natural seed pearls. The mother of pearl has strong iridescence, primarily in rose shades, against the silvery gray body color. Black mother of pearl is much less common than the lighter colors and creates a striking effect. The bright-cut engraving of the platinum borders adds a touch of sparkle. The backs of the faces are signed “Tiffany & Co.” and are marked “14K” and “Plat & Gold”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” (15 mm) diameter. Weight: 9.3 grams.

A very fine Victorian 14K gold stickpin, the head set with a round hardstone cameo depicting a pheasant. The cameo is worked in banded white and brown agate. The carving shows a pheasant running along the ground amidst underbrush, and has superb detail. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, some waviness to pin shaft, no damage to cameo. Size: overall length, 2-13/16”; head, 13/16” diameter. Weight: 4.0 grams.

A very wearable pair of 18K yellow gold earrings by Tiffany & Co. The classic design resembles bundles of rushes laid across one another and is suitable for daily wear. The quality of the finishing is very fine, as would be expected. The earrings retain their original omega clips, and posts could easily be added. The earrings are signed “Tiffany & Co. 750”.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/16” x 11/16”. Weight: 16.5 grams.

A vintage pair of cufflinks, the faces constructed of banded agate carved in the shape of antique pistols. The stones are nicely matched and have attractive markings in shades of orange, caramel and cream. The silver mountings are marked “Sterling”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, no chips to agate. Size: 1-1/8” x 7/16”.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earrings in Tiffany & Co.’s classic “Signature” pattern. The simple x-shaped design can be worn with everything from jeans to a cocktail dress. These earrings were produced in several sizes, these being the largest. The design is no longer in production and the large earrings are very difficult to find. The earrings retain their original posts and omega clips. If desired, the posts could be removed without disturbing the Tiffany signature, allowing the earrings to be worn as clips. Signed “T&Co.” and marked “750” for 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1991. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 1”. Weight: 23.3 grams.

A phenomenal and very heavy Art Deco dress set comprising a pair of double-faced cufflinks and three matching shirt studs. The faces have a slightly rounded triangular outline and are trisected by raised bands of channel-set square step-cut blue sapphires. The points where the sapphire bands meet are collet-set with brilliant round cut diamonds. The visual effect is reminiscent of airplane propellers. The natural sapphires have medium-dark, vividly saturated, slightly violetish-blue color. The diamonds are estimated at G color, VVS clarity. The platinum surfaces have a slightly matte finish. Each face is stamped "10% Irid/90% Plat". The spring mechanism on the backs of the studs are 14K white gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, 5/8" x 5/8"; studs, 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 42.89 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .90 carat; sapphire, 2.75 carats.

A stunning pair of 18K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelets from the "Cometes" line by Chanel Haute Joaillerie. The bracelets are designed as simple band of channel-set brilliant round diamonds punctuated at regular intervals with 5-armed stars, each bead-set with a brilliant round diamond. Though the bracelets appear to be solid, each of the sections is hinged at the star, so the bracelet is flexible and comfortable to wear. The clasps are hidden beneath one of the stars. Each bracelet comprises 72 diamonds of exceptional quality, with F/G color and VVS clarity. The total carat weight of each bracelet is approximately 3.5 carats. Each bracelet is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and is signed "Chanel." Each is also marked with its unique serial number.

Chanel's fine jewelry is sold in only a few of the company's major boutiques (Paris, New York, etc.) and is never sold at any other retailer. These bracelets are accompanied by a letter on Chanel's letterhead dated May 6, 2009 indicating a replacement value of $19,700 each. The letter includes the information that the bracelets were originally purchased from the New York boutique in 2007 and the serial numbers noted in the letter match those on the bracelets.

Stars were one of Coco Chanel's favorite motifs and she used them in the very first piece of fine jewelry she designed for herself in 1932. Chanel launched its fine jewelry collection in 2003 with the "Cometes" line which uses five-armed stars in endless varieties.

Origin: France, 2007. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: interior opening, 2-3/16" x 1-3/4"; width, 5/16", interior circumference, 6-3/16". Weight: pair, 48.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.00 carats (pair).

NOTE: Though they look wonderful worn together, we will consider selling the bracelets separately.

A very fine 14K rose gold brooch mounted with a Scottish Terrier carved from banded agate. The dog's head is beautifully rendered, using the stone's natural banded coloring to represent the dark colored muzzle and ears that contrast with the brighter carnelian of the fur. The eyes are represented by small round cut demantoid garnets set in a manner that nearly completely hides the gold collets holding the stones. The workmanship of the carving is first-rate. The setting is rather simple an does not detract from the beauty of the hardstone carving.

Faberge was a leading creator of hardstone carvings, and used carvings created in his own workshops as the shops of others. In Paris, Cartier was determined to compete with Faberge and also produced hardstone carvings. The Cartier versions, however, tended to be a little less realistic and rarely relied on the natural color variations of the stone material. The coloring technique strongly suggests that this carving is the product of a Russian workshop contemporary with Faberge, and possibly that of the master himself.

There appears to be a rubbed-out hallmark on the back side. This is occasionally seen in Russian pieces that had their marks obliterated shortly after the Revolution as their owners tried to smuggle jewels out of the country. Tested and guaranteed to be 56 zlotniks (slightly purer than 14K).

Origin: Russia, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-9/16" x 1-1/16". Weight: 15.3 grams. Approximate Total Demantoid Weight: .1 ct.

A lovely older Cartier 18K yellow and white gold ring set with a .347-carat round brilliant diamond. The design, a wide tapered band, combines the two colors of gold in a very nice geometric design that perfectly complements the single diamond collet-set in the middle. The diamond is of fine quality, estimated at G color, VS clarity. The ring has a substantial appearance and could be worn by either a woman or man (though the size is a bit on the small side). The interior of the shank is signed “Cartier”, is dated “1989” and has a serial number.

Weight: 11.1 grams. Approximate Diamond Weight: .347 carat. Finger Size: 5-1/4. Size: 9/16” wide, tapering to 7/32”.

A classic pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks by Larter. The oval faces are collet-set with black onyx plaques inlaid with gold reserves decorated in a Florentine finish. The gold inlays are star-set with round brilliant cut diamonds of nice quality. The toggle backs are stamped with Larter’s hallmark and are also marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” x 9/16”. Weight: 12.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .1 ct.

A striking 1950s extra-large bracelet charm by Van Cleef & Arpels. The charm is a fully-functional roulette wheel studded along the edge with collet-set round cut sapphires and emeralds. Under crystal dome, a tiny ruby bead serves as the marble. The moveable handle spins the dial, causing the ruby to skip along until if falls into one of the depressions on the wheel. Instead of numbers, however, the wheel is engraved “Je t’aime” (I love you…)/”Un Peu” (…a little)/”Beacoup” (…a lot)/”Passion” (…passionately)/”A La Folie” (…crazily)/”Pas Du Tout” (…not at all). The gemstones, as would be expected, are of the finest quality. A plain roulette wheel charm, without gemstones and engraved only with numbers, appears in a 1955 VCA print advertisement. The back is marked “Van Cleef et Arpels”, “Made In France” and has the serial number “16V507”. The maker’s mark appears on the bale. This piece can be worn on a heavy bracelet, but would be even more spectacular worn as a necklace.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-7/16” diameter. Weight: 22.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.0 ct; emerald, .35 ct; ruby, .1 ct.

A stunning and extremely rare 14K yellow gold, green tourmaline and pearl bracelet signed by Everett Edward Oakes. The bracelet comprises nine comma-shaped flaring gold links, each set with either a tourmaline cabochon or a pearl. The gems are set in the notched collet-setting frequently employed by Oakes to show off a stone’s color and overall quality. The tourmalines have fine green color with moderate saturation and medium tone. The clarity is excellent for tourmalines of this type. The pearls are equally fine, with good shape and bright rose overtones. The design, with nearly a Retro feel, is a bit more modern than is often associated with Oakes, but the beadwork and notched collets are typical. The tongue of the concealed box clasp is marked “14K” and bears Oakes’ oak leaf signature.

Edward Everett Oakes (1891-1960) was perhaps the foremost Arts & Crafts jeweler in America. He was a member (and medallist) of the Boston Arts & Crafts Society, and became the first living artist to have a work acquired for the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He trained with Frank Gardner Hale and worked for a few years with Josephine Hartwell Shaw. Oakes’ work shows a certain similarity with both Hale and Shaw. Most of his pieces are unsigned, but can often be identified based on their decorative motifs and construction techniques.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, one pearl link has been removed to shorten the bracelet to a normal length. Size: 7-5/8” long; 1/2" wide. Weight: 24.69 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 8.95 cts.

A lovely and unusual Retro 14K yellow gold floral pin, the flower set with a large round moonstone cabochon surrounded by round cut rhodolite garnet petals. The bouquet is tied together with a collet-set round cut citrine. The gemstones are of very fine quality. The moonstone has excellent blue adularescence and the rhodolites have intense raspberry red coloring. Rhodolite garnets are not often seen in Retro jewels. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-5/8” x 1-5/16”. Weight: 9.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 7.0 cts; rhodolite, 3.51 cts; citrine, .45 ct.

A nice pair of Art Deco cufflinks, the faces fashioned from carved rectangular plaques of strongly-colored chrysoprase with faceted edges. The stones have nice translucency. The faces are attached by solid connectors to the heavy bar backs. The backs are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” x 1/2". Weight: 5.5 grams.

Vintage 18K yellow gold brooch designed by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. The “Scribble” design (sometimes called “Graffiti” or “Squiggle”) is probably the artist’s most famous creation and became one of Tiffany’s most desirable pieces. The pin was available in several sizes, this example being the second largest. The “Scribble” line is no longer in production and examples are getting difficult to find. The back is dated 1983, is marked by Tiffany & Co., and is signed Paloma Picasso. The pin is presented with its Tiffany pouch.

Origin: America, ca. 1983. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2” x 2-5/8”. Weight: 22.5 grams.