Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1390)

An extremely rare pair of period Art Deco 18K gold cufflinks by Cartier in the "Trinity" pattern. This is the same pattern now more frequently called the "rolling ring". The design is made up of white, yellow and rose gold bands that seem to intertwine. The cufflinks have a hinged closure that's invisible when they're being worn. Although the "Trinity" design is still one of Cartier's most popular designs, the line was created in the 1920's and the cufflinks haven't been in production since the early years. Each is marked with the French "tete d'aigle" hallmark for 18K gold, Cartier's maker's mark and Paris signature, and a serial number. The interior of one link has a minutely engraved monogram "FM" and the year " '30".

Origin: Paris, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1" diameter; 9/32" wide. Weight: 18.8 grams.

An extraordinarily fine antique 18K yellow gold ring by Tiffany & Co. set with a mixed cushion cut Burmese blue sapphire surrounded by old mine cut diamonds. All the gems are of the finest quality. The sapphire has been certified by the American Gemological Laboratories (see the following paragraph). The diamonds, ranging in size from approximately .22 carat to .29 carat each, are estimated at G/H color and SI to VVS2 clarity. The sapphire is set in a prong setting, while the diamonds are set in a shared-prong setting that creates a filigree appearance around the back of the crown. The shoulders of the shank are lightly decorated with beaded engraving.

Nearly all sapphires marketed in the last 150 years have been heated to improve the color. This is considered a standard practice. Other treatments, such as filling in fractures, altering the color family, etc., though considered bad practice, are nonetheless quite common. Fine Burmese stones from the Mogok region that have not been treated in any way are exceedingly rare and only show up in upscale jewels from makers such as Tiffany and Cartier. This particular stone, with its bright coloring and beautiful cut, is nothing short of stunning.

The AGL Brief (dated April 2008) indicates that the sapphire is natural; displays specific properties and characteristics associated with stones from Burma; measures 7.39 x 6.69 x 5.82 mm; weighs 2.49 carats; is cut in mixed cushion, has blue color, and shows no heat or additional treatments. The brief further indicates that unheated sapphires are scarce. The original brief will accompany the ring.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original, interior of shank has a period monogram. Finger Size: 4-1/4 (The ring can be sized up and we would recommend that the work be performed by Tiffany). Weight: 6.0 grams. Gemstone Weight: diamond (estimated by measurement), 2.25 carats; sapphire (by actual weight), 2.49 carats.

A classic pearl and diamond ring by Mikimoto. A single 8.4 millimeter pearl is set at the center of the ring and is surrounded by small round brilliant-cut diamonds. The pearl is of very fine quality, estimated at AA. The body color is cream with rose overtones. The surface is smooth and lustrous. The diamonds are of equally fine quality. Typically, Mikimoto uses diamonds in the F-G color range with VVS clarity. The shank is stamped with Mikimoto’s oyster shell hallmark and “K18”.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Crown Size: 1/2" X 1/2" X 7/16” high. Weight: 3.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .2 carat.

A fabulous 14K yellow gold and platinum brooch by William Ruser commissioned to celebrate the astounding victory of the Pittsburgh Pirates over the New York Yankees in the 1960 World Series. The brooch is designed as one of Ruser's classic waif-like children, this time dressed in a pirate's costume. One eye is set with a blue sapphire and the other is covered with a platinum eyepatch highlighted with matte black enamel. A platinum earring dangles from one ear. In one hand he holds a baseball bat and in the other a World Series crown set with sapphires and a ruby. The pirate appears to be walking across a bouquet of flowers made of natural freshwater pearls. Each flower is centered with a prong-set brilliant round-cut diamond. Small gold flowers centered blue sapphires complete the bouquet. The back is engraved "Pittsburgh Pirates World Champions 1960". It is also signed by Ruser and marked appropriately for 14K gold and platinum.

Ruser was famed for his jewels featuring dogs, cherubs and children. He was favored by major Hollywood stars such as Joan Crawford and Loretta Young. He also accepted unusual commission opportunities that allowed for creative use of his favorite design elements. This is one of the wittiest examples of Ruser's work we've seen. He used only the finest raw materials and the design is masterful. Along with a tie bar he designed for one of the stars of the Indy 500, this brooch is probably the finest example of Ruser's sports-related commissions.

Origin: America, 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4" x 2". Weight: 27.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .02 carat; sapphire, .43 carat; diamond, .15 carat.

A magnificent pair of signed Mikimoto earrings featuring 13.75 mm mabe pearls in 18K yellow gold twisted knot settings accented with diamonds. The pearls are of the finest quality, estimated at AA. They have cream body color and extraordinary cream body color with rose overtones and superb luster. The brilliant round-cut diamonds are of similarly fine quality, estimated at VVS clarity and E color. They are bead set in 18K white gold to accent the color. The backs are finished with posts and omega clips. The posts could be easily removed for wear as clips-on earrings without altering the Mikimoto signature. The backs are signed with Mikimoto's oystershell mark flanked by "NY", indicating that they were made for Mikimoto's flagship New York store on 7th Avenue, and "18".

Ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 23.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.5 carats.

A wonderful and very rare pair of signed Eva Segoura ladybug earrings worked in 18K yellow gold, and set with hematite and rubies. Segoura was a very exclusive Parisian jewelry designer at 20 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré for a short time. Many of her jewels were rather whimsical and featured animals such as ladybugs, caterpillars, mice and blowfish. Segoura made ladybug earrings in several variations using different precious and semi-precious stones. These ladybug earrings have bodies of carved hematite set in gold frames. The sides of each ladybug are adorned with collet-set cabochon rubies, as are the eyes. The little creatures are completed with alert antennae and ball feet. The clips are marked with the maker’s mark, the French 18K guarantee mark, and a partially obscured serial number. The backs of the frames are signed “Eva Segoura” in script.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/4” x 15/16”. Weight: 28.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 2.15 carats.

An extremely fine pair of Art Deco cufflinks worked in platinum and 18K yellow gold. Each square face is centered with a gypsy-set old European cut diamond, and has square cut blue sapphires at each corner. The stones have excellent color and clarity, especially the sapphires, which are bright blue. The platinum is finished with a matte surface, causing the gemstones to seem even more vibrant. The faces have pierced galleries around the edges and are attached to baton backs with chains. The outer surface of the batons are also worked in matte platinum. The geometric styling of these cufflinks is a very good example of early Art Deco.

Origin: Europe, possibly France, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 15/32" x 15/32". Weight: 7.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .25 carat; sapphire, 2.0 carats.

A handsome pair of early Art Deco 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces designed in a sort of "Prince of Wales feather" pattern. Each face is highlighted with three old mine cut diamonds in milligrained platinum collet settings. The diamonds have nice color and are well-set for maximum sparkle. The faces are pierced to emphasize the three-dimensionality of the design. The baton backs are attached with chains. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16" x 9/16". Weight: 8.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .74 carat.

A wonderful Art & Crafts sterling silver bracelet by the Kalo Workshop of Chicago. The bracelet is formed of six plaques, each centering an oval buff-cut citrine. The plaques are somewhat diamond-shaped, with beadwork at either end, and are joined by double oval links. The citrines have very dark amber coloring, with superb evenness and clarity. The smooth domed tops reflect the faceted cutting on the bottoms of the stones to very nice effect. The clasp is finished with a simple domed silver cabochon. The back of the clasp is stamped “Hand Wrought Sterling Kalo”. Kalo pieces set with gemstones are particularly rare.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7-1/2” long; 3/4" wide. Weight: 51.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 13.14 carats.

A pretty 18Kyellow gold pin in the shape of a salamander from the reign of Emperor Napoleon III. Animal brooches were very popular in the mid-19th century, and reptiles were especially favored. The salamander has a long history in France, and was the personal symbol of King François whose rule began in the late 15th century. This example is beautifully engraved with delicate scales, claws, and eyes. The back is set with a line of alternating seed pearls and Persian turquoise cabochons. The head is set with a larger turquoise. The original clasp is marked with the “tête de cheval” hallmark used only outside Paris between 1838 and 1919.

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-7/16” long. Weight: 3.5 grams.

A nice pair of modernist 14K yellow gold and pearl earrings. 5.2-millimeter pearl studs suspend faceted gold bars that, in turn, suspend open-work gold spheres studded with pearls. Each sphere comprises a dozen 4.9 millimeter cultured pearls of very good quality. The body color is cream with rose overtones. The luster is bright and the surfaces are smooth. Each of the spheres is completed with the addition of prong-set seed pearls. The spheres dangle freely and exhibit lots of movement. During the late 1950s and 1960s, scientific knowledge became an inspiration for jewelry designers who began turning pieces like “Sputnik” rings. The arrangement of the pearls and the underlying gold structure of these earrings is clearly based on atomic-level molecule models. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8” long; 5/8” diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A fine Edwardian 14K yellow gold stickpin featuring an reverse-carved Essex crystal head depicting the blue and white striped burgee of the Larchmont Yacht Club. The crystal is well-carved, with bright coloring and no signs of water damage or separation. The crystal is finished with a mother-of-pearl background. The Larchmont Yacht Club dates from 1880 and remains one of America’s most exclusive yachting clubs. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: head, 1/2" diameter; overall length, 2-21/32”. Weight: 2.0 grams.

A classic vintage Mikimoto brooch featuring pearls set in 14K yellow gold. The swirled design includes ten pearls of superb quality, estimated at AA quality. The surfaces are smooth, the luster is bright and the body color is cream with rose overtones. The pearls range in size from 5.5 to 7.7 millimeters. The gold “leaves” are pierced to provide a sense of lightness despite the pin’s relatively generous size. The back retains the original typical Mikimoto clasp and is signed with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “K14”.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4” x 1-3/8”.

A wonderful and extremely rare Victorian 15K rose gold brooch set with Scottish agate. The brooch is in the form of the 19th century Prince of Wales’ crown enclosing the traditional feathers in fleur-de-lys arrangement, over a banner with the legend “Ich Dien”. The feathers are set with jasper and bloodstone. The engraved decoration of the gold is first-rate. The back bears a registry mark, dating the brooch to 1891. In 1891, Queen Victoria’s eldest son, the future Edward VII, celebrated the fiftieth anniversary of his investitute as Prince of Wales. Due to his mother’s longevity, however, Edward was the first Prince of Wales to reach that mark. Agate jewelry set in gold is quite uncommon, and this is the only example we’ve found of this particular design. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

Origin: England, 1891. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/16” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 6.0 grams.

A pretty Victorian sterling silver watch pin designed as a cluster of forget-me-nots. The repousse work is nicely detailed and very three dimensional. The back retains the original watch hanger, extended pinstem and c-clasp. The back is marked “Sterling”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-3/8” X 1-1/4”. Weight: 6.0 grams.

Attractive pair of Victorian cufflinks, the lozenge-shaped faces enhanced with black taille d’epargne enamel applied in a diagonal checkerboard fashion. The space between each crossing of enamel is filled with a seed pearl. The overall effect is very sophisticated, with a strong graphic element. The faces are connected by chains to football backs. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, no dings, all original. Size: faces, 13/16” x 5/8”. Weight: 7.5 grams.

A magnificent vintage platinum brooch formed as a floral bouquet featuring three primary blossoms tied at the bottom with a ribbon, and set with a mix of old single cut, old Swiss cut, old European cut, old mine cut, early modern brilliant round cut and French cut diamonds and round brilliant cut sapphires. The center flower features a .83-carat, old mine cut diamond of fancy cognac color and SI2 clarity; surrounded by sapphires. A flower bud is represented just above by a prong-set .34-carat old European cut diamond of fancy light cognac color and VS2 clarity. Leaves are bead-set with mixed cut white diamonds, all in the E-G color range with VS1 to SI2 clarity. Berries are represented by collet-set blue sapphires. The sapphires display P2B zone 30 color (moderate purplish blue) on the Gem Dialogue scale and have VS clarity. The hinged double pinstem is worked in 14K white gold, but the body of the brooch is tested and guaranteed platinum.

The range of different diamond cuts in this brooch clearly indicates it was specially made to order for a customer using the diamonds already in her possession. Such commissioned pieces are often not fully hallmarked, hence the lack of a mark for platinum or a maker's mark. The quality of workmanship is superb.

The brooch is accompanied by a June 2008 written appraisal (GIA & NAJA) conforming to the above description and assigning a replacement value of $16,500.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2" x 1-1/4". Weight: 16.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.84 carats (1.17 carats of fancy colored diamonds); sapphire, 2.1 carats.

An exquisite and very fine 18K yellow gold jewel by Henry Dunay, one of the greatest American jewelers of the latter 20th century. The piece comprises a 32" necklace of domed, oval gold links joined by polished arched connectors. The outer surfaces of the links are stippled in a roughly textured finish that contrast nicely with the arched connectors. Two of the links have hidden hinged clasps so that the necklace can be separated into a shorter necklace and a bracelet. Two of the arched connectors are joined together at the midpoint to suspend a detachable pendant inspired by ancient Mayan motifs. The pendant is quite large, but the openwork and geometric approach to the design maintain a sense of lightness. The pendant can also be worn as a brooch. All pieces are signed by Dunay and are marked 18K.

The piece is accompanied by a written appraisal (GIA & NAJA) indicating a total replacement value of $34,000. Mr. Dunay, himself, indicated that he recalled making the piece in 1968 or 1969. At that time he did not systematically document his creations, so the jewel has not appeared in published works. He suggested he would charge $34,000 to recreate the piece today.

Origin: America, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: full necklace length, 32" bracelet length, 8-1/2"; shortened necklace length, 23-1/2"; pendant/brooch, 2-11/16" diameter. Weight: 249.09 grams/8.009troy ounces.