Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Art Nouveau (171)

A lovely 14K yellow gold flower pin enameled in elegant shades of lilac and cream by Bippart, Griscom & Osborn. The five petals are nicely undulating around a central pearl, and a gold stem peaks out at the bottom. The back is stamped with Bippart's 14K gold mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: good; a few expert touch-ups along the edges. Dimensions: 1" x 1". Weight: 7.5 gr.

A fabulous Art Nouveau 14K gold ring set with a round brilliant cut peridot flanked by seed pearls. The gem is set in a distinctly Gothic revival quatrefoil design. The gold surfaces are hand-finished and have a matte surface typical of Art Nouveau jewels. The peridot has excellent color and clarity that contrasts beautifully with the bright white pearls. Converted from a stickpin, the piece is now a gorgeous ring. The crown retains the original maker's mark for Shanley Jewelry Company, of the leading Art Nouveau jewelers in the U.S.

• America, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; converted from a stickpin.
• Dimensions: crown, 5/8" x 5/8".
• Finger Size: 6-1/4.
• Weight: 2.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Peridot Weight: 1.61 carats.

Two classical satyr masks peer out from the sides of this Art Nouveau watch fob pendant. Each snarling face is surrounded by whiplash curls of gold that rise to the top of the fob. The bottom surface is engraved with a period “JEM” monogram. The gold surface has soft matte bloomed texture characteristic of the period. The jump ring is original. Stamped “10K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 5/8” x 1-1/2”
• Weight: 3.9 grams

A lovely Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold floral pendant. The flowers are represented by small rose cut diamonds and a round brilliant ruby. The gold foliage is finely engraved in a naturalistic pattern. The brooch suspends a drop-shaped natural pearl with fine luster. The ruby, though small, has fine red color and excellent clarity. The pendant is suspended from its bale with a double chain. Fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-9/32” wide; 1-3/8” long (not including chain); 2-1/4” long (including chain). Weight: 4.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .16 ct; diamond, .10 ct.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold honeymoon pin in the form of a crescent moon decorated with blue and white enamel forget-me-nots surrounding an enameled pansy set with a .025-ct round brilliant diamond. The pansy is the more uncommon type where the petals have elegantly-chased decoration. In Victorian flower language, both the pansy and the forget-me-not symbolized “think of me.” When flowers and crescents were used together, the symbolism was “honeymoon,” and these were popular gifts given to new brides by either their grooms or close family.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damange
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 11/16”
• Weight: 2.8 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .025 carat

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold ring set with an oval brilliant-cut citrine. The setting is particularly elegant. The stone is flanked on either side by a golden fuschia blossom. The citrine is of the very best quality, with extremely saturated orangey-gold color and exceptional brilliance. The interior of the shank is stamped 585 for 14K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Weight: 5.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 2.18 cts.

A lovely, and rather heavy Art Nouveau 18K gold watch pin decorated with finely cast and engraved fuchsia blossoms and leaves. Even the overall inverted teardrop shape of the pin is reminiscent of the drooping profile of a fuschia. In Victorian flower language, the fuschia represented "good taste." Pin retains the original clasp and watch hook. It could also be worn as a pendant with the addition of a couple of hidden loops to the back that could be attached to a split chain. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 1-1/16"
• Weight: 5.7 grams

A delightful late Victorian 14K yellow gold wishbone pin with a delicately enameled four-leaf clover in the middle. The shamrock's petals are arranged around a small pearl and are finely enhanced with shaded green enamel. The clasp is stamped with Krementz' hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 13/16". Weight: 4.2 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau locket worked in 14K yellow gold depicting a poppy blossom and buds. In the Victorian language of flowers, the red poppy represented "consolation," certainly an apt choice for a locket that might hold a portrait. The interior of the locket retains both of the original frames and glass covers. The jump ring is marked "10K", but the locket is tested and guaranteed as 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; sharp detail; the back cover appears to have had a monogram removed. Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter. Weight: 6.9 gr.

The spectacular violet color of this oval brilliant-cut glows in this lovely 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau setting featuring iris blossoms and foliage. In Victorian flower language, the iris often represented the sentiment "I have a message for you," but in this instance I think the use of irises probably relates more to the purple tones of the gemstone. The reverse retains the original pinstem and folding bail, so it can be worn as a brooch or pendant. The setting is marked "K14."

NOTE: The pendant is shown with an optional 16" 14K gold chain, available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 15/16".
• Weight: 6.7 grams (pendant only).
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 10.45 carats.

A 14K gold Art Nouveau enameled violet and horseshoe pendant using the Victorian language of flowers to convey the sentiments "good luck" and "I'll always be true." The violet is centered with an old European cut diamond and the horseshoe is studded with seed pearls. The back retains the original pin and a folding, so the piece can be worn as a pin or pendant. The clasp is marked "14K."

• America, ca 1900
• Excellent condition; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 7/8" excluding bail
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat
• 4.0 grams

A lovely, colorful Art Nouveau 14K gold, seed pearl and enamel pin in the form of a violet by the Newark firm Crane & Theurer. The flower petals are enameled in cream darking gradually through lilac to deep violet along the edges. Each of the petals is finished with an arc of tiny seed pearls echoing the larger pearl set at the flower's center. The reverse is stamped with the maker's hallmark and "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 7/8".
• Weight: 4.1 gr.

A gorgeous enameled clover, worked in several shades of green is featured in this ring converted from a Victorian earring. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a small pearl. The clover is set on a sturdy 14K gold split shank. Four-leaf clovers are generally associated with good luck, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Be mine." So whether you're in love or just feeling lucky, this ring is perfect!

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: converted; no enamel damage; excellent condition.
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 3/4".
• Finger Size: 7.
• Weight: 3.7 grams.

The pansy carries the message "Think of me" in the Victorian language of flowers. Certainly, the giver of this beautiful enameled gold pansy ring will be thought of often and fondly. The beautiful violet, cream, yellow and black enamels have a velvety texture to suggest the feel of a real pansy's petals and the whole is set off by a sparkling old mine cut diamond at the center. Originally a Victorian stick pin, this flower is now ready for daily wear with the addition of a 14K gold split shank.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: converted from a stick pin; enamel is in perfect condition except for a small area about 3/32" that is mostly hidden by the petals in front of it (much less noticeable in person than in the photos).
• Dimensions: pansy, 9/16" x 9/16".
• Finger Size: 6-3/4.
• Weight: 3.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 carat.

A lovely Art Nouveau brooch depicting a lady surrounded by birds in 14K yellow gold and diamonds. The design is beautifully worked with tremendous textural detail, and the old mine cut diamond set in the headdress adds a touch of sparkle. The designer of this brooch is most certainly of French origin and was created with the idea of licensing it to manufacturing jewelers in France, England and the U.S. When this design appears with French hallmarks, it’s hollow and worked in 18K; English versions are typically in sterling silver; and American versions are solid and worked in 14K. Krementz is known to have used this design, though this example is unmarked. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: The brooch can easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail to the back.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.
• Weight: 6.6 grams.
• Approximate Dimond Weight: .04 carat.

A lovely 14K gold Art Nouveau pin in the form of a bouquet of violets by Krementz. Three flowers on long golden stems are accented with a pair of leaves decorated with iridescent translucent enamel. Each flower comprises five dark purple enameled petals surrounding a seed pearl. In the Victorian flower language, the violet represented modesty. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp, marked 14K and bearing Krementz's hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1920
• ConditionL excellent
• Dimensions: 1-13/16" x 7/8"
• Weight: 4.5 grams

A delightful Art Nouveau daisy pendant/pin, the petals formed from long Mississippi river pearls arranged around a textured gold disc studded with a rich reddish-orange citrine. The pearls have very attractive lustre. The back retains the original folding bail and pinstem/clasp, and is stamped with the mark for Charles S. Crossman & Co.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 6.1 grams. Approximate Total Citrine Weight: .43 carat.

A very rare 14K gold and diamond Art Nouveau medallion watch pin featuring a portrait of Sacagawea. She is shown in profile, wearing a feathered headdress and a bear claw necklace, gazing out over plains dotted with teepees. An old mine cut diamond (G, VVS2) glimmers in place of the sun on the far opposite side. This piece was likely made at the time of the centennial anniversary of the Lewis & Clark Expedition in 1905. The back retains the original watch hook and pinstem. The clasp is marked for 14K and has Larter’s hallmark. The piece can easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail.

• America, ca. 1905.
• Excellent condition; sharp detail
• 3/4” diameter
• Weight: 5.2 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .025 carat