Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Art Nouveau (171)

A delightful Art Nouveau daisy pendant/pin, the petals formed from long Mississippi river pearls arranged around a textured gold disc studded with a rich reddish-orange citrine. The pearls have very attractive lustre. The back retains the original folding bail and pinstem/clasp, and is stamped with the mark for Charles S. Crossman & Co.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 6.1 grams. Approximate Total Citrine Weight: .43 carat.

A classic Art Nouveau brooch / pendant decorated with lush purple, cream, maroon, and yellow matte enamels. The flower is centered with a round brilliant cut diamond. Though this example is unmarked, it is likely by A. J. Hedges. Hedges’ enameled flowers stood out from the competition because they were generally heavier and displayed more sculptural detail. The diamond is graded H/SI2. The back retains the original pinstem, clasp, and folding pendant bail. The bail is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-3/16” x 1-3/16”
• Weight: 11.6 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .16 carat.

A lovely 14K yellow gold flower pin enameled in elegant shades of lilac and cream by Bippart, Griscom & Osborn. The five petals are nicely undulating around a central pearl, and a gold stem peaks out at the bottom. The back is stamped with Bippart's 14K gold mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: good; a few expert touch-ups along the edges. Dimensions: 1" x 1". Weight: 7.5 gr.

A lovely Art Nouveau Krementz 14K yellow gold festoon necklace featuring pear-shaped amethyst drops and small natural pearls enhanced with swags of gold links. Each of the amethysts hangs from a gold trumpet flower mounting that echos the central gold plaque. The gold surfaces are worked in the slightly matte Russian finish popular in high quality Art Nouveau jewels. The clasp and the back of the central plaque are marked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; the chain has been lengthened from the original 14" to its current 16.5"; the extension is made so the necklace can also be worn at a 15.25" length. Dimensions: length of central drop from the plaque, 1-1/4". Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 10.51 carats.

An astonishing figural pendant necklace featuring a natural semi-baroque pearl in the shape of a pear, accented with platinum and 18K yellow gold leaves and a stem, all set with old European cut diamonds. The pearl has very fine orient, with all the colors of the rainbow skating over the creamy white surface. The diamonds are graded at an average of H/SI1. Converted from an Edwardian stickpin, the pear is now a gorgeous pendant hanging from a French 18K white gold chain.

NOTE: The pendant is also available without the chain for $1050.

• France, ca. 1910.
• Excellent condition; pendant converted from a stickpin.
• Pendant, 11/16" x 1/2"; overall necklace length, 16-3/8".
• 3.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .26 carat.

Wonderful Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold stick pin in the form of a flying dragon. The coiled body is covered with finely detailed scales and the wings are detailed with webbing. The dragon clasps a small prong-set single-cut diamond in its jaws. The surfaces have the soft matte bloom or “Russian finish” that was often used in the Art Nouveau period. The pinstem is illegibly hallmarked. Tested and guaranteed 10K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: head, 11/16” x 11/16”; overall length, 2-1/2” long. Weight: 1.5 grams.

This fabulous snarling tiger is glowing with lifelike translucent enamels in multiple shades of gold, orange, brown and black. The nostrils and tongue are accented with deep red enamel. Each eye is set with an old European cut diamond and the fangs grasp a third diamond. The stones are good quality, graded at I color, SI1 clarity. The pendant is deeply three-dimensional with superb detailing. The back is also stamped with Alling & Co.’s mark. Alling was manufacturer for leading retailers such as Tiffany & Co., Bailey, Banks Biddle and C.D. Peacock.

The back is ornately engraved “EBP From the Armour Boys/Sioux City, IA/June 1907.” Our research suggests that the “Armour Boys” were the owners of the meatpacking company Armour, and that “EBP” was Elizabeth Ann Brasker Plankinton, daughter of their partner in the company. One of Armour’s largest factories opened in Sioux City in 1907.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain that is available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, 1907.
• Condition: excellent condition.
• Dimensions: 1 3/32” wide x 1 1/8” tall (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 11.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 carat.

A very handsome 10K yellow gold man’s ring, the setting featuring an Art Nouveau take on Gothic arches. A bezel set oval brilliant-cut amethyst crowns the ring. Stones set in this style of ring can often appear too dark, but this amethyst has a pleasant moderate color that reads violet even from a distance. The interior of the shank is stamped with the maker’s mark for Larter and 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 5/32” at the back of the shank. Weight: 7.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.38 cts.

A very pretty Art Nouveau honeymoon pin worked in 10K yellow gold enhanced with enamel and seed pearls. The iris blossom is beautifully decorated in translucent shades of purple and greenish-yellow enamel and is centered by a small seed pearl. The flower appears against a crescent moon studded with graduated-size seed pearls. In the Victorian language of flowers, these elements were understood to symbolize “honey” (the flower) and “moon” (the crescent), thus representing “honeymoon”. These small pins were often given by grooms to their new brides as a wedding gift. For some reason, irises are somewhat uncommon in enameled jewelry. Though unsigned, the workmanship and style of this example suggests a Newark maker. The original clasp is marked “10K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 7/8” x 13/16”. Weight: 2.3 grams.

A particularly nice Art Nouveau four-leaf clover honeymoon watch pin, the leaves beautifully enameled in shades of translucent green, yellow and rust. The 14K yellow gold crescent moon is set with a graduated row of pearls, while an old European cut diamond centers the clover. The back retains the original clasp and watch hook. In Victorian flower language, the clover symbolized "good luck." When flowers and crescents were used together, the symbolism was "honeymoon," and these were popular gifts given to new brides by either their grooms or close family. Since the meaning here is "good luck on your honeymoon," we'd have to assume that this particular pin was a gift from the bride's mother rather than from her groom. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1" x 1"
• Weight: 3.7 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .025 ct

A very fine, large-size Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold pin/pendant enhanced with stunning iridescent enamels in shades of rose, pink, cream and green. The flower is deeply three-dimensional and is centered with an array of green-tipped stamens around an old European cut diamond graded as I/J, SI1. The back retains the original pinstem, clasp and folding bail. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 1-3/16” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 7.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 ct.

A lovely Art Nouveau brooch depicting a lady surrounded by birds in 14K yellow gold and diamonds. The design is beautifully worked with tremendous textural detail, and the old mine cut diamond set in the headdress adds a touch of sparkle. The designer of this brooch is most certainly of French origin and was created with the idea of licensing it to manufacturing jewelers in France, England and the U.S. When this design appears with French hallmarks, it’s hollow and worked in 18K; English versions are typically in sterling silver; and American versions are solid and worked in 14K. Krementz is known to have used this design, though this example is unmarked. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: The brooch can easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail to the back.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.
• Weight: 6.6 grams.
• Approximate Dimond Weight: .04 carat.

A wonderful Art Nouveau 14K gold ring in the form of two intertwined snakes surrounding an opal cabochon. The ornately coiled snakes are beautifully detailed. The opal has attractive play-of-color, with a preponderance of green and blue with sparks of red and orange. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

In the 19th century, snakes in jewelry symbolized eternal love. Jeweled snakes became particularly popular after Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria a snake ring for their betrothal, and remained popular throughout the century.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: 3/8" wide tapering to 1/16"
• Condition: excellent
• Finger Size: 7
• Weight: 3.1 grams

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K gold enameled honeymoon pin featuring a diamond-set blossom enameled in delicate shades of iridescent translucent rose, yellow and white enamel set against a gold crescent moon. Delicate floral pins of this sort were popular gifts for new brides. In Victorian symbology, flowers could represent honey and crescents, the moon. Thus, honey + moon = honeymoon. The back is marked "14K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 5/8"
• Weight: 3.0 grams

A classic French Art Nouveau 18K gold brooch featuring a young woman with naught but a sprig of flowers covering her breasts set against a poppy blossom. A swallow appears over her shoulder. In Victorian symbology, swallows variously represented wishes for a safe return or “home and heart” since the they mate for life. Similarly, poppies had various meanings including imagination and pleasure. The design was created by the sculptor Armand-Pierre-Louis Quenard (1865-1925) and presented at the inaugural salon of the Société des Artistes Français in 1901. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible maker’s mark.

NOTE: The brooch could be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail to the back.

• Origin: France, ca. 1901.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1” x 1”.
• Weight: 5.0 grams.

A beautiful Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with a maiden and songbirds. The woman has long, flowing hair in the typical Art Nouveau style, and wears a band of flowers at the top of her head. Groups of songbirds cluster on branches along the outer edges. The background is finely worked in a textured pattern. The interior retains both of its original frames. The back has a period three-letter monogram "GSB". Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail.
• Size: 15/16" diameter (excluding bail).
• Weight: 8.0 grams.

A delightful late Victorian 14K yellow gold wishbone pin with a delicately enameled four-leaf clover in the middle. The shamrock's petals are arranged around a small pearl and are finely enhanced with shaded green enamel. The clasp is stamped with Krementz' hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 13/16". Weight: 4.2 grams.

An elegant 14K gold, Mississippi River pearl and blue sapphire floral pendant in the Art Nouveau taste suspended from a split chain. The flower petals are formed from pearls and center a blue sapphire of fine, intense color. The design is enclosed in a gold frame that resembles the shape of a pretzel! The pendant was originally a brooch and was expertly converted to a pendant by our jeweler. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1900.
Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1" x 5/8"; overall necklace length, 18-7/8".
• Weight: 4.8 grams.
• Approximate Sapphire Weight: .15 carat.

A striking Art Nouveau 18K gold and pearl necklace in the form of a pendant of chestnut leaves suspended from a cluster of chestnuts. The gold surfaces are entirely hand engraved with very fine detail. The pendant is set with a natural button pearl and suspends a second pearl at the bottom. The chain is enhanced with a series of tiny pearls, as well. Chestnut trees have traditionally represented fertility, but in Victorian flower language, came more to represent “luxury and abundance.” This style of necklace, called a “draperie” was a popular form among Parisian jewelers around 1900-10. The necklace is stamped with French 18K gold marks, as well as an illegible maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1905.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-1/8” wide x 3” long from the cluster of fruit to the suspended pearl; chain length, 15-7/8”.
• Weight: 10.9 grams.

14K gold Art Nouveau pendant necklace featuring a flower set with a blue sapphire center and a seed pearl bud enclosed within a heart-shaped frame of foliage. The gold has a slightly greenish cast and is engraved to suggest the velvety leaves. Originally a brooch, the pendant now hangs on a 14K gold split chain as an elegant necklace. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1" x 1"; necklace length, 18-3/4".
• Weight: 4.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .06 carat.

A nice Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold signet ring that appears never to have been engraved. The shoulders are enhanced with scrolling foliage leading up to the oval face. It’s very unusual to find a signet ring that was never engraved. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, very light wear to decorative elements at the shoulders
• Dimensions: face, 5/8” x 1/2"
• Finger Size: 8-1/2
• Weight: 9.3 grams

A lovely and very unusual locket in the Art Nouveau style. A large central crystal is surrounded by whiplash curves of 15K yellow gold studded with variously sized seed pearls and blue sapphires. Double-sided crystal lockets of this sort ("porte-photos") are typically French and are of a much simpler design. The reverse is stamped "15Ct".

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no chips or scratches to crystal. Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 2". Weight: 11.2 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .55 ct.

A delightful Victorian 10K yellow gold figural ring in the form of a genie. The genie's hands are folded across his chest and grasp a old European cut yellow sapphire. The use of a fancy color sapphire in a piece such as this is quite original. The stone is graded as very light, very slightly grayish Yellow-Green (YG 2/3). The ring's shank is in the form of sinuous snake whose head peers over the genie's shoulder and gazes at the glimmering sapphire. The design is just beautifully thought out and the detailing is excellent. The interior of the shank is marked "10K".

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail; wear consistent with age to the facet junctions on the crown of the sapphire. Finger Size: 8-1/2. Size: 13/16" wide at widest. Weight: 9.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.53 ct.

An extremely rare and beautifully made French Art Nouveau pin depicting a sirène (mermaid) and sea monsters. The rarity of the design cannot be overstated—for every 50 or so griffins maybe one mermaid piece turns up. The mermaid is depicted within a trefoil border created by the bodies of the writhing sea monsters. A garland of lilypads (interesting that the designer didn’t remember that lilypads grow in freshwater while mermaids live in oceans) preserves her nether region modesty. She is shown blowing a large conch shell horn that was used to calm the seas for favored sailors and to brings storms to doom the unlucky. The pin retains its original pinstem and clasp marked with French 18K gold marks and also with the master goldsmith’s mark for Alfred Rayat who worked in Paris 1885-1907. A folding bail could be added for wear as a pendant.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-5/16”
• Weight: 11.0 grams

A stunning Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pansy pin enameled in rich shades of dark plum, violet, cream and saffron. The jeweler used a matte enamel to suggest the velvety texture of pansy petals. The flower is centered with a prong-set round cut diamond that adds a nice sparkle against the matte enamel. The back of the pin is marked for 14K and also has a maker's mark that we've not seen before. The pansy is most definitely a Newark or New York piece and is very similar to pansies by Hedges and Larter. Unlike most other pansies, the pin has rather substantial weight. The pansy was a popular flower for jewelry and in the Victorian language of flowers, it signified remembrance.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4". Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Diamond Weight: .09 ct.

A particularly nice Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of a floral spray. The strap-like leaves are worked in shaded green enamels, and the flowers are made from freshwater "dogtooth" pearls centered with old mine cut diamonds. The pearls have particularly attractive silvery luster and their irregular shapes beautifully mimic the frilly edges of flower petals. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp. Marked by Henry Freund & Bro.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, a very small enamel flake at the upper tip of the top leaf just beneath the pearl flower. Dimensions: 1-1/13" x 7/8". Weight: 4.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 ct.

An Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold pin featuring a beautifully enameled morning glory enclosed in a gold whiplash frame. The flower petals and leaves have very fine enameling in translucent shades of rose, cream and green. The enamel has the iridescent finish more often seen in the best quality enameled pieces from Newark workshops. A small pearl peeks out the top of the morning glory. The gold frame is set with rows of rose cut diamonds. Since the morning glory opens and withers in a single day, some charts of Victorian flower language say the flower was used to represent "love in vain." The pinstem is stamped "18Ct".

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1". Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .36 carat.

A generously-sized 14K gold locket featuring the image of a young woman wearing a bandeau of old mine cut diamonds in her flowing hair that extends to the edges of the locket, appearing almost as cresting waves. The interior retains the original frame insert. Marked "14K".

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: 1 1/4" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail; the back has a monogram removal
• Weight: 11.4 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .09 carat

A lovely Art Nouveau enameled 14K gold wreath pin by Krementz. The leafy wreath, worked in shaded green enamels is studded with tiny gold berries, four seed pearls and four small old European cut diamonds. The sparkle of the diamonds against the colored enamel is very nice. The back retains the original pinstem and c-clasp, marked with Krementz’ hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900.

Size: 7/8” diameter.

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .06 carat.

An elegant Art Nouveau cross pendant worked in a foliate design of 18K yellow gold overlaid with a sunburst of milgrained platinum set with rose cut diamonds and centering a larger old mine cut diamond. The gold surfaces are enhanced with chasing to enhance the naturalistic look of the swirling leaves. The center diamond, .20 carat, is I/VS2. The remaining diamonds cannot be accurately measured for size, but face up at about .40 carat. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• Circa 1900.
Dimensions: 1-5/8” x 2-1/2” (including jump ring).
• Weight: 8.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .carat.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A gorgeous enameled pansy, worked in several shades of bluish-purple is featured in this ring converted from a Victorian pin. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a small pearl. The pansy is set on a sturdy 14K gold split shank. Pansies are generally associated with remembrance, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Think of me." So whether you're in love or just feeling nostalgic, this ring is perfect! Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: We are offering a matching pendant converted from the same Victorian pin. Item #1412579

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: converted from a brooch; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 11/16"
• Finger Size: 6 1/2
• Weight: 4.0 grams.

A very fine 14K multicolored gold pendant/pin in the form of a ruffled pansy. Each of the petals is subtly sahded from rose gold at the edges through shades of yellow and finally, to a grayish gold (possibly platinum) where the petals join. The surface is finished with a lightly stippled texture. The center of the flower is set with a round blue sapphire and three of the petals are set with old mine cut diamond "dew drops". The diamonds are small, but are very good quality (F/VVS1) and sapphire has rich violetish-blue coloring. The reverse retains the original folding bail and pinstem/clasp, and is marked "Pat." Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1" x 1-1/8". Weight: 6.2 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: sapphire .39 carat; diamond, .08 carat.

A lovely Art Nouveau pendant in 14K yellow gold by Bippart, Griscom & Osborn. The curving gold frame encloses a flower with petals made from baroque Mississippi River pearls centering a bezel-set round blue sapphire. Another freshwater pearl hangs from the bottom of the pendant. The gold surfaces have a softly bloomed texture. The bail is original and is marked by Bippart.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: pendant, 2-1/2" x 5/8"; chain 15"
• Weight: 5.6 grams
• Approximate Sapphire Weight: .11 carat

An elegant Victorian 10K yellow gold locket depicting a curving branch of poppies with a small star-set old mine cut diamond to one side. The reverse has a period monogram. Tested and guaranteed 10K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1" diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 4.2 gr.

Three rich deeply-colored pear-shaped sapphires for the petals of the trefoil in this elegant pendant necklace. The flower is centered with a rose cut diamond. The sapphires are excellent quality with a velvety violetish-blue appearance. The trefoil’s stem curls around on itself to for the Art Nouveau styled border of the pendant. The 18K pendant was originally a brooch but has been given new life as a pendant necklace with the addition of a 14K gold cable chain.

• Origin: France, ca 1900.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 11/16” diameter; necklace length, 18-1/2”.
• Weight: 8.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .89 carat; diamond, .02 carat.

Art Nouveau 14K gold crescent pendant necklace set with round brilliant cut diamonds and rubies. The quality of the gemstones is superb, with VVS2/G diamonds and vivid very slightly purplish-red rubies that show no indications of heat treatment. In Victorian and early Edwardian jewelry, the crescent shape symbolized feminine power personified in the moon goddess Selene/Juno. Brides were often given a crescent pin to wear during their honeymoons. This cresent was originally a brooch and has been converted into a split-chain pendant necklace. The symbology and striking color is perfect for today's strong woman! Marked 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-1/16" wide; overall necklace length, 19".
• Condition: excellent.
• Weight: 3.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .35 carat; diamond, .22 carat.

A beautiful 18K yellow gold locket in the Art Nouveau taste, the front cover depicting a water nymph, her streaming hair entwined with seaweed studded with small rose-cut diamonds. Her ear is adorned with an earring in the form of a coral branch. Her head appears just above delicately rippling waves that high the word “Eau” for water. This design was part of a four-part series designed by Bargas representing the four elements of earth, air, fire and water. They are sometimes seen as buttons, but very rarely worked in gold and used as a locket. Like many French lockets of the period, this example opens by swiveling sideways rather than being hinged. The interior retains its original fittings and glass cover. The back cover has the slightly matte finish typical of Art Nouveau jewels and has a period “ES” monogram. The bail is fully hallmarked with 18K gold marks and with the maker’s mark (partially obscured).

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1-1/8” x 1-3/8” excluding jumpring). Weight: 9.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 ct.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pin with a daisy and foliage enameled in translucent shades of green, yellow, rose and white enamel. The center of the blossom is set with a seed pearl. The flower is enclosed within a swirling gold frame. Flower pins of this sort were often used to convey sentiments from the "language of flowers." In this case, the daisy represents "innocence." The back retains its original watch hook, pinstem and clasp. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: overall excellent; two minute enamel nicks on the daisy's petals visible only under 10x magnification. Dimensions: 1-9/32" x 7/8". Weight: 3.8 gr.

A delightful pair of Art Nouveau daisy stud earrings, the petals formed from Mississippi River pearls arranged around a textured gold disc representing the flower's seed head. The freshwater pearls have attractive luster that contrasts nicely with the brightness of the gold. Tested and guaranteed 14K. These earrings would look particularly nice worn with a very similar pearl daisy pendant (Item #1402839) in our collection.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: exellent; converted from the original screwbacks
• Dimensions: 1/2" diameter
• Weight: 2.2 grams

A gorgeous enameled clover, worked in several shades of green is featured in this ring converted from a Victorian earring. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a small pearl. The clover is set on a sturdy 14K gold split shank. Four-leaf clovers are generally associated with good luck, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Be mine." So whether you're in love or just feeling lucky, this ring is perfect!

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: converted; no enamel damage; excellent condition.
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 3/4".
• Finger Size: 7.
• Weight: 3.7 grams.

A beautifully romantic French Art Nouveau heart-shaped coin purse, bordered in square cut blue sapphires and centered with a heart-shaped sapphire. The sapphires have very slightly violetish-blue sapphires color and eye clean clarity. The frame is engraved in a geometric pattern and the closure is set with cabochon sapphires. The frame's interior is engraved with a pair of serial numbers, indicating the purse was made by one of the more important French joailliers at the turn of the century. The frame retains the original bail that would originally have allowed the purse to be suspended from a bracelet or finger ring at a formal ball or similar society event. The back of the frame is stamped with French hallmarks. We've never before seen a heart-shaped gold mesh purse!

• Origin: France, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; no damage to mesh.
• Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-11/16".
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 5.03 carats.
• Weight: 18.9 grams.

A gorgeous enameled pansy, worked in several shades of bluish-purple is featured in this pendant converted from a Victorian pin. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a pearl. The conversion was accomplished with the addition of a hidden bail the back of the flower. Pansies are generally associated with remembrance, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Think of me." So whether you're in love or just feeling nostalgic, this pendant is perfect! Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: We are offering a matching ring converted from the same Victorian pin. Item #1412578.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: converted from a brooch; a tiny nick to the purple at white enamel at the center for the flower behind the pearl visible upon close inspection
• Dimensions: 1 1/8" x 1 1/8"
• Weight: 6.1 grams.

A rare Art Nouveau brooch worked in 18K gold depicting Eros, the Greek god of love and harmony. “Amor” is the Latin version of his name, and English-speakers usually refer to him as “Cupid.” He is shown here with a quiver of arrows used to inflame love in the hearts of his targets. The quiver’s strap is set with small rose cut diamonds for an added bit of sparkle. The name “Amor” is included in the design to the left of Amor’s head. The brooch is signed “F Vernon” for Frédéric-Charles-Victor de Vernon, a noted French medallist and sculptor. This particular design was first exhibited by Vernon at the 1903 Paris Salon. The back is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1903
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/32” diameter
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat
• Weight: 5.8 grams

A delightful Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold circle pin, the center set with an enameled trillium blossom. The petals are beautifully enameled in translucent shades of ivory and green. The gold surface below the enamel is intricately engraved. The blossom is centered by a pale coral bead. The periphery of the circle brooch is set with small seed pearls. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp marked 14K and bearing the hallmark for Bippart, Griscomb & Osborn.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, the swivel bale has been removed but can be replaced with no solder work necessary. Size: 31/32" diameter. Weight: 3.5 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau enameled pin worked in 108K gold. The ornate multi-curved frame encloses a trio of grape leaves decorated with translucent enamel suspending a cluster of grapes formed from small pearls. The pin has a very delicate and elegant look. In the Victorian language of flowers, the grape symbolized "charity." The pin could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a pendant loop. Marked 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 15/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 2.9 grams.

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the cover decorated with repousse decoration of a young woman wearing a diamond-set diadem and flowers in her hair encircled in a laurel wreath. The quality of workmanship is excellent. The old European cut diamond add a perfect touch of sparkle. The interior retains both of its original frames and glass covers. The front side of the interior also contains a fragment of alabaster with carving. It might be Egyptian or something equally ancient, but whatever it is, someone took the trouble to create a mounting so that it fits perfectly into the repousse recesses of the cover. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; sharp detail; two minor pinpoints on back cover; no monogram. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 11.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 ct.

A lovely Art Nouveau depiction of the Greek goddess Iris worked in 14K yellow gold. The goddess wears an elaborate floral headdress punctuated with an old mine cut diamond. Her wings, in folded position, can just be seen behind her shoulders. The brooch is finished with a garland of iris blossoms and foliage. Iris was the goddess of the rainbow and, as such, connected the earthly and heavenly worlds. The back of the brooch retains the original c-clasp and watch hook. It can easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the top. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail; the pinstem appears to be original, but is not gold.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 10.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .02 carat.

Exquisitely rare Art Nouvean plaque pendant by master jeweler and enamelist Eugene Feuillatre. The overall bell-shaped outline mimics the shape of the flowers surrounded the golden maiden at the center of the pendant. The flowers are worked with en plein enamels in subtle shades of pale green and gold translucent enamels, and are surrounded by openwork filled with plique-a-jour enamels in milky opalescent shades of pale rose and blue. Every detail is perfectly worked. The best of the French Art Nouveau jewelers believed that a jewel should look as good from the back as from the front. The back of this piece features fine hand-engraved details showing the maiden's flowing hair and the delicate veining of the flowers' leaves and petals. the back is signed with Feutillatre's cartouche and is marked with a bigorne (a 19th century French guard against forgeries) and the "tete d'aigle" guarantee for 18K gold.

Eugene Feuillatre was born in Dukerque in 1870 and began exploring enameling techniques at the age of 18. He was hired by Lalique to execute his enamel designs and continued that association until around 1898 when he exhibited to great acclaim at the Paris Salon of the Societe des Artistes Francaises, where the Musee des Art Decoratifs (the decorative arts wing of the Louvre) acquired one of his works for its permanent collection. By the following year, he was exhibiting regularly at the New Gallery (London) and the Libre Esthetique (Brussels) alongside jewelry luminaries such as Lalique and Fouquet. Feuillatre exhibited successfully at the international expositions in Paris (1900) and Milan (1902). Today, he is considered among the greatest French fathers of Art Nouveau jewels.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, absolutely no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/4" x 2-9/16" (excluding bail). Weight: 13.7 gr.

A classic Victorian honeymoon brooch in 14K yellow gold. The traditional crescent shape supports a gold violet enameled in rich shades of rose, purple and cream and accented with green veining on the petals. The flower is centered with a small ruby. In Victorian flower language, the crescent shape represented “moon” and the flower represented sweetness or “honey”, thus “honeymoon”. Pins such as this were popular gifts from grooms to their new brides. The original early safety clasp has an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: very good; a 1/16” flake on the tip of one flower petal; the pinstem is an early gold-filled replacement
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 3/4"
• Weight: 2.5 grams.

The pansy carries the message "Think of me" in the Victorian language of flowers. Certainly, the giver of this beautiful enameled gold pansy ring will be thought of often and fondly. The beautiful violet, cream, yellow and black enamels have a velvety texture to suggest the feel of a real pansy's petals and the whole is set off by a sparkling old mine cut diamond at the center. Originally a Victorian stick pin, this flower is now ready for daily wear with the addition of a 14K gold split shank.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: converted from a stick pin; enamel is in perfect condition except for a small area about 3/32" that is mostly hidden by the petals in front of it (much less noticeable in person than in the photos).
• Dimensions: pansy, 9/16" x 9/16".
• Finger Size: 6-3/4.
• Weight: 3.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 carat.

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold enameled pin with swirling foliage surrounding a bezel-set amethyst. The enamel is worked in delicate translucent shades of violet, cream and green. Small seed pearls flank the nicely-colored amethyst. The clasp is marked with Krementz' 14K hallmark.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pin set with an aquamarine and enameled in shades of blue and green (Item #1414818)

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 9/16"
• Weight: 3.6 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: .75 carat.

A very rare 14K gold and diamond Art Nouveau medallion watch pin featuring a portrait of Sacagawea. She is shown in profile, wearing a feathered headdress and a bear claw necklace, gazing out over plains dotted with teepees. An old mine cut diamond (G, VVS2) glimmers in place of the sun on the far opposite side. This piece was likely made at the time of the centennial anniversary of the Lewis & Clark Expedition in 1905. The back retains the original watch hook and pinstem. The clasp is marked for 14K and has Larter’s hallmark. The piece can easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail.

• America, ca. 1905.
• Excellent condition; sharp detail
• 3/4” diameter
• Weight: 5.2 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .025 carat

An elegant heavy gold bracelet comprised of linked chains decorated with three-leaf clovers. In Victorian flower symbology, clover leaves, regardless of their number signified good luck, but they also held the meaning “think of me.” Kauffer was the primary jeweler of the Ecole de Nancy, France’s most important group of Art Nouveau artisans. He exhibited at the Louvre during his lifetime. Unlike the more florid Art Nouveau designs by Parisian jewelers, Kauffer’s designs tended to be more linear and graphic. The bracelet’s clasp is stamped with the 18K gold marks used outside Paris until 1919, with Kauffer’s maker’s mark, and also with Kauffer’s signature.

• Origin: France, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-1/2” long.
• Weight: 32.7 grams.

This Art Nouveau medallion brooch depicts the beautiful Ophelia (spelled “Ophelie” in the French tradition), surrounded by cattails, willow branches and waterlilies, as symbols of watery grave in Shakespeare’s “Hamlet.” Her hair is studded with small old mine cut diamonds. This design was created by the French jeweler and sculptor Emile-Séraphin Vernier (1852-1927) for the 1908 Exposition de la Parure Précieuse de la Femme in Paris. Like many other Art Nouveau medalists, Vernier licensed some of his designs to various manufacturing jewelers around the world. This example is American and is marked 14K. The brooch retains its original watch hook and pinstem/clasp.

NOTE: The brooch could easily be worn as a pendant with the addition of a folding bail to the back.

• Origin: America, ca. 1908.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 1” diameter.
• Weight: 7.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat.

A superb Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with a scene depicting a maiden in flowing drapery amidst a rose garden with Classical ruins in the background. A cherub reaches down to touch her shoulder. The upper edge is set with a fine 5-pt ruby of slightly purplish-red color. Locket designs of this complexity are quite uncommon. The back cover is engraved "Aunt Dora to Dora 1906". The interior is marked "14K".

Origin: America, 1906. Condition: excellent, one pinpoint ding on back cover. Size: 1-3/16" diameter. Weight: 9.4 grams.

A nice Art Nouveau griffin pendant worked in 18K gold and platinum, the wings set with rose cut diamonds and the open jaws grasping another diamond. The pose, in a sort of near-frontal pose with detailed ribbed wings outspread, is somewhat unusual and makes a dramatic statement. The piece was originally a brooch and pendant combination, but the original pinstem was removed. The clasp remains and is stamped with French 18K marks. The pendant loops are original. The griffin also retains its original hook that would have been used to suspend a watch or a pearl or gemstone drop.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent; a couple of small dings to the back side near the hook
• Dimensions: 1-7/8” x 1-1/2”
• Weight: 6.1 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 carat

A pair of ducks takes flight from the lakeside marsh in this 18K yellow gold and diamond locket by renowned Swiss jewelers Huguenin Frères. The quality of the design and workmanship are astounding. The old European cut diamond (I/VS2) is set in platinum collet to enhance the color. Huguenin Frères was one of the leading makers of fine pocketwatch cases, and in 1899 expanded their range to include sporting decorations and other jewelry. It’s likely that a locket of this type was made for a markswoman or female hunter of some distinction. The locket retains its original interior frames and old silk liners. The front is signed by the maker.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp details; no monogram.
• Dimensions: 1 9/32” diameter.
• Weight: 13.2 grams.M/il>
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .10 carat.

A rare 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the front cover depicting a Ford Model B automobile (1904-06). The headlights and the center of the grille are set with old mine cut diamonds sparkling as if truly lit up. The car is very finely detailed with excellent depth to the design, clearly showing the early right-hand drive and the fluted sides of the engine compartment. The back bears an ornate period three-letter monogram. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1905
• Dimensions: 1" diameter
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; a couple of pinpoint dings to the back cover hidden among the monogram
• Weight: 5.0 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat.

A stunning Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the cover with repousse decoration illustrating the Byzantine Empress Theodora. Though we’ve never seen this particular design before, Byzantine motifs were widely used in Art Nouveau jewels, especially in France where they were copied from costumes created for the actress Sarah Bernhardt and posters by Alphonse Mucha. The Empress is sumptuously dressed in a flowing robe with a wide jeweled collar, bracelets and earrings. She wears a heavy crown and sits on a throne. The quality of decoration is excellent. The back of the locket has a period three-letter monogram in elegant Art Nouveau script. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1900
• Excellent condition; sharp detail; a few small dings on the back side
• Dimensions: 1-5/32” diameter
• 5.7 grams

An Art Nouveau 14K gold ring featuring an oval carnelian cabochon set in a marquise-shaped surround decorated with a stylized foliage pattern. The 6x8mm carnelian has very nice coloring and good translucency. Originally a stickpin, a 14K gold shank has been added.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: crown 5/8” wide
• Finger Size: 6 1/2
• Weight: 1.6 grams