Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed (145)

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earrings with mother-of-pearl inlay by Angela Cummings. The designer pioneered modern hardstone mosaic techniques when she was still lead designer at Tiffany & Co. After establishing her own luxury boutique, she continued to make similar designs under her own name. The earrings are marked “Cummings 18K”.

Origin: America, 1984-2003. Size: 1” x 3/4". Weight: 15.7 grams.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earrings with lapis lazuli inlay by Angela Cummings. The designer pioneered modern hardstone mosaic techniques when she was a lead designer at Tiffany & Co. She began working at Tiffany in 1967, but was not allowed to sign her own designs until 1974. These earrings are definitely her design, but are unsigned, indicating that they date from the period 1967-74. The earrings are marked “T&Co 18K”.

Origin: America, 1967-74. Size: 7/8” x 3/4". Weight: 15.6 grams.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earrings by acclaimed designer Angela Cummings. The simple elongated oval is enhance with a center bulge that echos the oval outline. The surfaces have a matte finish for a warm glow. The style is very versatile and can be worn with jeans as easily as a cocktail dress. The backs retain their original omega clips and are marked “1987 Cummings 18K”.

Origin: America, 1987. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-3/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 20.8 grams.

An extremely fine pair of 18K yellow gold half-hoop earrings channel-set with princess cut diamonds and square cut blue sapphires. Like all of Wayne’s jewelry, the gemstones are of the very top quality. The diamonds are F color and VVS2 clarity. The sapphires are extra-fine quality, with strongly saturated pure blue color and eye-clean clarity. The earrings have the original posts with omega backs. Each earring is marked with the model number “4”, the serial number “188156” and “750”. Each is also has Wayne’s signature.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” wide; 3/4” long. Weight: 11.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .8 ct; sapphire, 1.54 cts.

A lovely vintage 14K yellow gold heart pendant pave-set with 62 round brilliant rubies by Tiffany & Co. The heart is slightly domed and shimmers in vibrant red. The workmanship is simply outstanding. The back has a folding bail and a pinstem so the piece can be worn as a pin or suspended on a chain. Marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8” x 15/16”. Weight: 6.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.5 carats.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold “Sputnik” earrings by H. Stern. This classic design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, aquamarine, amethyst, citrine and garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination of gemstones used and how they are arranged relative to one another. This pair of earrings has brightly-colored stones in a very pleasing arrangement. Sputnik jewelry was created by H. Stern, Brazil’s largest dealer in colored gemstones, and was quite popular in the early years of the space race because of its perceived resemblance to the famed Russian satellite. The earrings have omega clips without posts (posts could easily be added). The earrings were purchased in 1996 at the H. Stern boutique on Fifth Avenue, New York. They retain their original presentation and gift boxes. The earrings are tested and guaranteed 18K gold; the findings are 14K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1996. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” diameter. Weight: 6.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.34 cts.

A beautiful 18K white gold start pendant set with diamonds and sapphires from Chanel’s haute joaillerie “Comete” collection. Coco Chanel’s first jewelry designs were based on celestial themes and when the house re-entered the luxury jewelry business they reinvented many of her early designs. This star pendant features four round brilliant diamonds and three blue sapphires in different fancy cuts—square, marquise and pear. The diamonds are G color with VS1 clarity. The sapphires are B5/5 color and eye-clean clarity. The different shapes and apparently random arrangement of the gemstones was intended to mimic the placement of stars in the galaxies. The back of the pendant is signed “Chanel”, has the serial number “7E1232” and has appropriate 18K gold hallmarks. The chain clasp is also signed and marked. The original retail price of this pendant was $5,100.

Origin: France, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: pendant, 5/8” x 3/4"; chain, 16” long. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .25 ct; sapphire, .25 ct.

A superb modernist 18K yellow gold pendant set with a large bi-color tourmaline. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his bold use of very large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting. The color of this tourmaline shades from deep green to deep purplish-red. The gold mounting which slightly mimics the outline of the tourmaline is decorated with stippling and Florentine engraving. The back is is signed “Burle Marx” and is stamped “18K” and “No Bras”.

Marx exclusive boutique was located at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC but he maintained close ties to his native Brazil. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visting heads of state and their wives including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margrethe of Denmark, and Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most famous commissions was a gem-encrusted cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8” x 2” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 21.1 grams.

A classic 18K gold “Open Heart” pendant in the large size by Tiffany & Co. Created by Elsa Peretti, this design has become one of Tiffany’s most popular and identifiable designs. This pendant is the second largest of the four available sizes. The pendant is suspended from its original Tiffany chain. The back of the pendant is signed “Elsa Peretti” and both the pendant and chain are fully hallmarked by Tiffany & Co. This piece is currently available at Tiffany & Co. and retails for $1735.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: pendant, 1” x 1-1/16”; chain, 18” long. Weight: 10.1 grams.

A very fine, heavy 18K yellow gold bracelet in the “Signature” or “Signature X” pattern by Tiffany & Co. This is a classic design that hasn’t been in production for quite some time. Each link is fully articulated so the bracelet lies nicely on the wrist. The clasp is marked “T & Co. 750”. Comparable bracelets at Tiffany currently retail in the $8,000 range.

Origin: America, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/8” long; 5/16” wide. Weight: 29.1 grams.

Fabulous 1960's David Webb seven-strand emerald bead torsade necklace finished with an 18K yellow gold clasp featuring a cushion-shaped rock crystal plaque centering a oval cabochon emerald flanked at the top and bottom with round brilliant-cut diamonds. This design is so evocative of the classic chunky Webb style, and the workmanship is of the finest quality. The diamonds are F color, VVS2 clarity. The 305 carats of fully-faceted emerald beads are fully faceted and are beautifully matched to the 27.28-carat cabochon emerald in the clasp. The emeralds, graded as "medium, moderately-strong, slightly yellowish green" (slyG 4/4), have a very pleasing and lively appearance. The clasp is signed "Webb" and is marked "18K".

When worn with the clasp, the necklace can be worn with the clasp at the front, back or to the side (our favorite). The torsade may also be worn without the clasp. For an even simpler, more modern look, the clasp may be threaded on a black silk cord as a pendant.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: overall length, 17-5/8"; clasp, 1-3/8" x 1-3/16". Weight: clasp, 26.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.16 carats; emerald, 332.28 carats.

A fine 18K multicolor gold and diamond gentleman's dress watch by Van Cleef & Arpels. The octagonal face is decorated with finely engraved alternating bands of 18K yellow and white gold in a herringbone pattern. The white gold bezel is pave-set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The stem is topped with a bezel-set diamond and the lugs are also pave-set. The watch retains its original black silk strap, the gold buckle also set with diamonds. The diamonds are graded as G-H color, VS1 clarity. The back of the case is marked "Van Cleef & Arpels/Quartz/G2294.7/25689". The inside of the strap is tamped "Van Cleef & Arpels". The inside of the buckle is marked "V.C.A./750".

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent working condition; case is virtually mint; silk strap shows some wear at edges. Size: case, 1-1/4" diameter; strap, 8-3/4" long. Weight: 40.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.75 cts.

A striking pair of 18K yellow gold earrings accented with hardstone inlay by Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co. Each slightly domed oval earring is set with polka-dots of carnelian, mother-of-pearl and onyx. Cummings pioneered the use of the mosaic technique in modern jewelry during her early years at Tiffany. These earrings were created in the early 1970s, before Tiffany began allowing Cummings to sign her designs with her own name. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co. 750”.

Origin: America, ca. 1972. Size: 13/16” x 15/16”. Weight: 17.2 gr.

A delightful vintage 18K yellow gold brooch in the form of a leopard by Fred of Paris. The leopard's spots a created of black enamel and his eyes are set with round emeralds flanked by round single-cut diamonds. The gemstones are of superb quality, as expected from one of the world's great jewelry houses. The brooch has a two-prong clip on the back. It bears French 18K gold hallmarks and is signed "Fred-Paris."

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-3/8" x 1-9/16". Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .13 ct; emerald, .04 ct. Weight: 27.8 gr.

An extremely fine 14K white gold and pearl brooch by Mikimoto. Even by Mikimoto’s standards, the pearls are particularly good quality, with cream body color and strong rose overtones. The pearls are also quite generously sized, ranging from 7.85mm to 8.35. The surfaces have only slight natural blemishes and offer superb, clear reflections. AA pearls of this size were only rarely used by Mikimoto in brooches, as they were more often set aside for use in strands. The back of the pin is signed with Mikimoto’s oyster shell hallmark and is marked “WG 14K”.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 14.0 grams.

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold earrings set with diamonds by David Yurman. This design, part of the “Cable Buckle” collection, combines Yurman’s classic cable motif with an open buckle pave-set with round brilliant diamonds, graded as G/VS2. The earrings have posts with Omega clips. The earrings hug the ear closely, so they are appropriate for either day or evening wear. The backs are signed “D. Yurman 18K”. This design is no longer being made, but the original retail price was $3,950.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” long; 1/2” wide. Weight: 15.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .45 ct.

An outstanding pair of vintage earrings in 18K yellow gold set with diamonds by Tiffany & Co. The oval shape is formed of reeded bars interspersed with prong-set round brilliant cut diamonds, creating a basketweave texture. The diamonds are graded as F color, VS1 clarity, and excellent cut. Each earring is marked “1992 Tiffany & Co. 750”.

Origin: America, ca. 1992. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 3/4”. Weight: 21.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.25 cts.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching ring as Item #831151.

A delightful vintage 14K yellow gold disc charm or pendant by Tiffany & Co. The center features an intricately cast "Tree of Life" bedecked with gemstone flowers. Starting with the diamond and spiraling outward in a counterclockwise direction, the first letter of each gemstone’s name—Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire and Topaz—spells “DEAREST”. The tree is enclosed in an open twist border, in turn enclosed in a broad “pleated” border. The back is marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Acrostic jewelry spelling out such sentiments was very popular in the Victorian era. The gemstones are 19th century antique cuts and Tiffany apparently custom-set them in this piece at a client’s request. The nature of the clarity characteristics suggests that the ruby is Burmese in origin, while the sapphire is Kashmir. Neither shows evidence of treatment, nor are the emeralds filled. The “Tree of Life” pattern was often set with birthstones representing the owner’s children or grandchildren, but the acrostic “DEAREST” is most unusual.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-5/8” diameter. Weight: 17.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .35 ct.