Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed (145)

A stunning bracelet from Van Cleef & Arpels’ “Twist” line launched in 1962. Van Cleef’s jewels of that period took on a new lightness of mood from those of the previous decade. Color and a sense of movement became ever more important. The “Twist” bracelet matches flexible gold mesh with gold beads along the edge, cultured cultured pearls and coral beads to create a casual yet stately jewel that looks at home with jeans or a gown. The ingenious clasp is as small as possible to preserve the effect of a single torsade encircling the wrist. The Twist line was made with coral, lapis and onyx, and in addition to bracelets, included necklaces and clip earrings. The bracelet is fully marked with French 18K gold stamps and is stamped with the serial number 14.491 and “V.C.A. 62.” There is also the master goldsmith’s mark for Roger Stoffel of Stoffel et Cie, a workshop that created jewels for Van Cleef, Cartier, and Jean Schlumberger in the 1960s.

• Origin: France, 1962
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 9/16” wide; 8” long
• Weight: 14.2 grams

An exquisite mid-century modern 18K gold and diamond necklace by André Vassort for the Parisian jeweler O. J. Perrin. The necklace comprises 47 butterfly-shaped graduated links, each separately hinged so they lie perfectly flat around the neck. The links are worked in the heavily textured style favored by Vassort. The center 21 links are each studded with a diamond so delicately set that it appears to float over its link. The diamonds are graded as E color and VVS1 clarity. The clasp is stamped with Vassort’s master’s mark and with French 18K gold marks. The necklace is presented in its original dark blue suede and moiré silk fitted box marked by the luxury jewelry house O. J. Perrin. Aside from Perrin, Vassort also created jewels for Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin, Cartier, and Boucheron. He also designed privately for Hollywood celebrities. In 1969, Van Cleef asked him to design and create the coronation crown for Empress Farah of Iran.

• Origin: France, ca 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 17-1/2” long; 5/8” wide tapering to 3/8” at back
• Weight: 103.6 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.75 carats

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Sern. The spheres are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, and peridots. The spheres are suspended from a bar of three larger gemstones. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. Most Sputnik earrings are clips. This is only the second pair of Sputnik drop earrings we have seen in twenty years. The earrings originally had lever backs which is where the Stern mark would have been. At some point, this pair was changed to a post and clutch system. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and to be made by Stern.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” long; 5/8” diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.72 carats
• Weight: 6.9 grams

An outstanding 18K gold pendant set with an amazing enameled alpine scene by Carlo Poluzzi (1899-1978), the greatest Swiss enamellist of the the 20th century. Poluzzi sometimes used the very difficult technique of applying translucent enamel over an engraved gold plate to produce brilliant sunrise or set effects as seen in the left side of the sky in this example. This required multiple coats of different colored enamels which increased the likelihood of unwanted cracks during the multiple firings. Poluzzi was perhaps the only enamellist capable of this technique in the 20th century, and indeed, the scene is signed at the lower left. Of course, this example is also signed at the lower left. In the 1920s, Poluzzi (still in his low 20s) became the master of Emaux de Genève, the provider of the highest quality enameled dials and cases for luxury horlogers such as Vacheron & Constantin, Patek Philippe, Rolex and Gubelin. This plaque is set as a pendant by the Gubelin. The Holbein-style setting features square cut rubies and emeralds amid swirling gold foliage. The gemstones are of very fine quality with intense, saturated coloring and excellent clarity. The reverse is stamped with Gubelin’s hallmark and the Swiss gold mark for 18K.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” x 1-7/16”
• Weight: 26.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .8 carat; emerald, .47 carat

A colorful 18K gold pendant from H Stern’s “Rainbow Collection,” featuring rectangular garnet, topaz, citrine, peridot, green tourmaline, aquamarine, and amethyst to represent the color spectrum of visible light. The stones are contained within a simple gold border. The reverse is stamped with Stern’s star mark. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1990
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1” long including bail
• Weight: 1.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.0 carat

A lovely 14K yellow gold 5mm cable twist bracelet with a gem-set station from the “Renaissance” collection by David Yurman. The square station features a square step-cut rhodolite garnet flanked with cabochon emeralds at the top and bottom. This design is one of the earlier pieces from the Renaissance collection, and is no longer in production. The open cuff is flexible and can be spread to fit nearly any size wrist. The interior of the bangle is signed “D. Yurman 14K”.

Origin: America. Size: 5mm diameter. Weight: 14.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: garnet, .79 ct; emerald, .26 ct.

A pair of 18K yellow gold clip-on earrings from Elsa Peretti’s “Comma” collection for Tiffany & Co. These are the large size, which are quite difficult to find. The design was inspired by the simple, sweeping curve of a comma. When worn, the arc mirrors the shape of the ear for a sleek, contemporary look. Each earring is marked by Tiffany and signed Peretti. Only the small size (less than half as long and about a third the weight) are currently available at Tiffany for $3,000.

• Ca 1990
• Condition: excellent, no dings
• Dimensions: 1-9/16” x 7/8” (38 x 19 mm)
• Weight: 13.3 grams

A pair of 18K yellow gold clip-on earrings in Keiselstein-Cord’s timeless “Rope Twist” design. These earrings were produced in at least two sizes, these being the. The surface is bloomed to create the semi-matte finish characteristic of the designer’s work. The earrings are fully marked and dated for 1982, making this among his earliest designs.

• Germany, 1982
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 7/8” (22 x 22 mm)
• Weight: 35.5 grams

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the ROUND design by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. Peretti’s designs transform even the simplest geometric shapes into beautiful and original jewelry. The round shapes are adorned only with an off-center round “dent” that flattens the sphere. The eassings can be dressed up or down for wear with nearly any outfit. The backs are omega clips with posts. The earrings are signed by Peretti and Tiffany, and are presented in their original dark blue Tiffany box. Tiffany recently brought back this design and the earrings retail for $3200.

• Origin: America, ca 1990
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 15/16” (24mm) diameter
• Weight: 16.5 grams

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by acclaimed jewelry designer Barry Kieselstein-Cord. The earrings are designed as rectangular plaques centering slightly domed centers surrounded by beaded borders. The surfaces have a hand-finished look and are bloomed for the slightly matte texture characteristic of the designer’s work. The earrings have substantial weight. The backs are fully signed and are dated 1986.

• Origin: America, 1986
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 11/16”
• Weight: 15.5 grams

A stunning pair of 18K yellow and white gold earrings by Faraone in cooperation with Tiffany & Co. The yellow gold half-hoops are accented with white gold "stems" that burst open flowers set with marquise cut rubies. The rubies have fine slightly purplish-red color saturation. Intact inclusions indicate that the rubies are unheated. Faraone was one of the oldest jewelers in Italy, serving as court jeweler to the Royal household and to luminaries such as Maria Callas. The Settepasse family, Faraone's owners, joined forces with Tiffany in 1960 to manage Tiffany's European expansion. The companies jointly owned two boutiques in Milan and Florence. The earrings are signed by both Faraone and Tiffany, are marked for 18K gold, and have English import marks for 1990.

• Origin: Italy, 1990
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: length, 15/16"; width, 1/2"
• Weight: 19.5 grams
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 1.0 carat

A fabulous pair of mid-century 18K yellow gold and platinum earclips by Cartier set with brilliant round cut diamonds. The gold surfaces are cast in a rough texture that contrasts beautifully with the bright diamonds set in platinum. The diamonds, as expected of Cartier, are extremely fine quality (E color/VVS2 clarity). French jewelry became more flamboyant in the 1960s, as wartime restrictions eased. Most importantly, jewels were designed for the "modern woman" who wanted to transition her look seamlessly from day to evening. When worn, these flame-like earrings cradle the entire earlobe and rise up gently along the back side of the lobe. Each earring bears French hallmarks and is signed "Cartier."

• Origin: France, 1960s
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1-1/4"
• Weight: 12.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.5 carats

An elegant pair of 18K gold earrings featuring large cultured mabe pearls surrounded by borders of brilliant round cut diamonds (E/F color; VVS2 clarity) and square cut blue sapphires of similar fine quality. The pearls have fine creamy body color with rose overtones and a high luster. Jewels by Spark were retailed by Neiman Marcus and other luxury purveyors. The original posts were removed for wear only with the omega clips, but could easily be replaced. The backs are marked "18" and are signed "Spark."

• Origin: America, ca 1980
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 13/16"
• Weight: 21.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.6 carats; sapphire, 2.0 carats

A delightful Retro period 14K gold charm or pendant depicting "Thursday's Child" by William Ruser. The charm is finely detailed. According to the poem, Thursday's Child has "far to go" so Ruser depicted the naked child walking along a natural freshwater pearl carrying a traveling sack of belongings. The use of freshwater pearl is a classic Ruser touch. The child's eyes are set with blue sapphires. The back is signed and is marked "14K."

Ruser, the formost Beverly Hills jewelry of his time, was a favorite of Loretta Young and Joan Crawford. He is best know for his depictions of dogs (particularly poodles) and waif-like children in various poses.

• Origin: America, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 1-5/16" x 1-5/8" (excluding bail)
• Weight: 15.8 grams

A stunning 18K gold "Double Cable" cuff bracelet with two stations set with round brilliant diamonds (G/VS1) and French cut rubies. This is a very rare model from Yurman. We have seen it only once before, set with emeralds. The back of each station is signed "D Yurman/18K" and the endcaps are marked "D Yurman 750."

• Origin: America, ca. 1990
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: width, 9/16"; width, 1/2" at stations, 12/32" along cables
• Weight: 39.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.08 carat; ruby, 1.1 carat.

A fine vintage Tiffany & Co stylized leaf brooch worked in 18K gold and set with sapphires and diamonds. The elegant form is created from wirework that gives the brooch a light feeling despite its generous size. Tiffany employed this gold wire construction to simulate feathers, animal fur and other natural textures. The gems are prong set above the gold background for added dimension. The diamonds are G color, VS1 clarity; the sapphires have medium-dark, strongly saturated blue violet-blue color. The back has a two-prong fur clip and is marked "Tiffany & Co".

• Origin: America, ca. 1965
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 1-3/8"
• Weight: 10.8 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: apphire, .56 carat; diamond, .50 carat.

A classic 1960's Tiffany & Co. stylized floral brooch in 18K yellow gold set with sapphires and diamonds. The cluster of four blossoms are heavily decorated with hammered and carved details accented with clusters of round brilliant cut diamonds and blue sapphires. Though the brooch is bold, the spikiness of the design keeps the overall design from feeling too massive. The diamonds are I color, SI1 clarity and the sapphires are medium, vivid blue color. The back is marked "18K Tiffany & Co."

• Origin: America, ca 1965
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1- 3/4"
• Weight 21.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .59 carat; diamond, .12 carat.

A delightful vintage 14K yellow gold disc charm or pendant by Tiffany & Co. The center features a "Tree of Life" bedecked with gemstone flowers. Starting with the diamond in the center and spiraling outward in a clockwise direction, the first letters of each gemstone's name—Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire and Topaz—spell "DEAREST." The tree is enclosed in a open twist border, in turn surrounded by a broad pleated border. "Tree of Life" charms were usually set with the birthstones of children or grandchildren, so the acrostic version is quite uncommon. The back is marked "Tiffany & Co., 14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .64 carat
• Weight: 13.8 grams.

A large 18K yellow gold Sputnik pendant by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, garnets, green tourmalines, and most unusually, a very rare blue indicolite tourmaline and an even rarer neon green tourmaline with paraiba-like coloring. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to showcase the variety of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian ines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a different appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. This pendant has very strong jewel tones. The back retains the original pinstem for wear as a brooch and the original folding bail for use as a pendant. The back is stamped with Stern's older hallmark.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.65 carats
• Weight: 6.6 grams

An elegant vintage Tiffany & Co. diamond ring from the "Vannerie" collection. The domed band is worked in a woven motif bisected with a slash of round brilliant cut diamonds. The diamonds are graded G/VVS2. The interior of the shank is marked "Tiffany & Co. 750 1989."

• Origin: America, 1989
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide at front tapering to 1/4" at back
• Finger Size: 8-1/4
• Weight: 13.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .75 carat.
• Condition: excellent; typical surface wear at the back of the shank

An elegant 18K yellow gold ring set with a faceted amethyst by famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. The sculptural quality of the design is highlighted by the contrast of wire-brushed and polished surfaces surrounding the deep violet amethyst. The interior of the shank is fully signed "Burle Marx 18K" and has Brazilian hallmarks.

Burle Marx worked in Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. The Brazilian government commissioned him to make state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, Indira Gandhi, and many others. Among Hollywood royalty, he was a favorite of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

Haroldo Burle Marx is well-known for jewels set with stones in "forma livre" (free-form) designs, but occasional pieces turn up with traditionally-cut stones. Some believe these designs were created in partnership with his brother, the noted landscape architect Roberto.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1" wide at crown tapering 3/16" at the back of the shank
• Finger Size: 9
• Weight: 15.8 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 6.72 carats

A colorful pair of 18K gold and gemstone earrings from the “Rainbow Collection” by H Stern. Created in the 1980’s, the collection was intended to show off the variety of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines and also the artistry of the company’s designers in the subtly graduated colors that reproduce the colors of the rainbow spectrum. The selection includes amethyst, several shades of citrine, peridot, and blue topaz. Each earring is marked “750” for 18K and bears Stern’s "S" and star hallmarks.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1985.
• Dimensions: 7/32” wide; 11/16" long.
• Weight: 3.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.7 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A colorful 18K gold and gemstone ring from the “Rainbow Collection” by H Stern. Created in the 1980’s, the collection was intended to show off the variety of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines and also the artistry of the company’s designers in the subtly graduated colors that reproduce the colors of the rainbow spectrum. The selection includes garnet, amethyst, citrine, peridot, and blue topaz. The interior of the shank is marked “750” for 18K and bears Stern’s hallmark. One side of the shank is engraved with a star centering a small diamond, also a Stern branding.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1985.
• Dimensions: 7/32" wide at front, tapering to 5/32” at the back.
• Finger Size: 7 1/2.
• Weight: 4.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight:2.14 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

An unusual vintage 14K gold equestrian keychain by Tiffany & Co. The chain has a fob on either end, one in the form of a horseshoe and the other in the form of a fully three-dimensions horse head. The head is nicely detailed and sparkles with a pair of bright ruby eyes. The rubies, though small, have very fine bright color. The back of the horseshoe is marked "Tiffany & Co. 14K."

Keys are added by holding the chain against one side of the horseshoe and slipping on the key. When the chain is no longer being held next to the horseshoe, the key stays securely between the two fobs.

• Origin: America, ca. 1925.
• Condition: excellent; a small pinpoint ding underneat the bottom of the horse's neck.
• Dimensions: overall length, 4-5/8"; horse head, 3/4" x 15/16".
• Weight: 5.1 grams.

A classic 18K gold “Open Heart” in the large size by Tiffany & Co. Created by Elsa Peretti, this design became one of Tiffany’s most popular and identifiable pieces. This pendant is the second largest of the four sizes available. The back of the pendant is signed “Elsa Peretti “ and is fully hallmarked by Tiffany & Co. The pendant is presented with its original Tiffany 18" 18K gold chain. This piece currently retails for $2200.

• Origin: America, ca. 2000.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 1" x 1-1/16"; necklace length, 18".
• Weight: 10.1 grams.

A classic 18K gold “Open Heart” in the large size by Tiffany & Co. Created by Elsa Peretti, this design became one of Tiffany’s most popular and identifiable pieces. This pendant is the second largest of the four sizes available. The back of the pendant is signed “Elsa Peretti “ and is fully hallmarked by Tiffany & Co. This piece currently retails for $1925.

NOTE: The pendant is shown on a 16" 14K gold chain available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 2000.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 1-1/8".
• Weight: 8.4 grams.

A classic 18K gold “Open Heart” in the rare extra-large size by Tiffany & Co. Created by Elsa Peretti, this design became one of Tiffany’s most popular and identifiable pieces. This pendant is the largest of the four sizes available. The back of the pendant is signed “Elsa Peretti “ and is fully hallmarked by Tiffany & Co. This piece currently retails for $2400.

NOTE: The pendant is shown on a 16" 14K gold chain available for an additional $125.

• Origin:: America, ca. 2000.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 1-7/16" x 1-5/16".
• Weight: 9.4 grams.

The 18K yellow gold anchor pendant shines as it dangles from the steel cable bar-link chain with gold accents. The combination of materials makes the necklace appropriate for wear in the day or evening. The design was part of the "Flavia" line from the renowned Italian jeweler, UnoAErre The pendant is marked "Flavia" and is stamped with Italian hallmarks and the maker's mark. The clasp is also hallmarked and bears the retailer's mark for Carrazza, a luxury jeweler in the yacht basin area of Ft. Lauderdale that specializes in jewelry by European designers whose work is not widely available in North America.

• Origin: Italy, 1987.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-3/16 x 15/16"; necklace length, 16".
• Weight: 29.5 grams.

A large pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. The earrings currently have posts, but those could be removed, if desired. Marked with an older Stern hallmark.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1955.
• Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.
• Weight: 12.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 10.11 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no dings

A large 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. The interior of the shank is stamped “750” for 18K gold, and bears Stern’s older hallmark.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1955.
• Dimensions: 1” diameter.
• Finger Size: 7 1/4.
• Weight: 6.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.05 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no dings.

A colorful 18K gold and gemstone ring from the “Rainbow Collection” by H Stern. Made in the 1980’s, the collection was intended to show off the variety of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines and also the artistry of the company’s designers in the subtly graduated colors that reproduce the colors of the rainbow spectrum. The selection includes amethyst, iolite, green tourmaline, peridot, citrine, pink tourmaline and garnet. The interior of the shank is marked “750” for 18K and bears Stern’s hallmark.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pair of earrings (Item #1381057).

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1985.
• Dimensions: 1/4" wide at front, tapering to 1/8” at the back.
• Finger Size: 7 1/2.
• Weight: 5.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: not accurately measurable due to setting, but estimated around 5 carats
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A colorful pair of 18K gold and gemstone earrings from the “Rainbow Collection” by H Stern. Made in the 1980’s, the collection was intended to show off the variety of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines and also the artistry of the company’s designers in the subtly graduated colors that reproduce the colors of the rainbow spectrum. The selection includes amethyst, blue topaz, green tourmaline, peridot and citrine. The backs have omega clips and posts could be added. Each earring is marked “750” for 18K and bears Stern’s hallmark.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching ring (Item #1381060).

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1985.
• Dimensions: 13/32” wide; 3/4" long.
• Weight: 10.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 10.8 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved aquamarine in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of Brazilian gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The aquamarine’s deep, dusky blue color contrasts beautifully with the gold, which is worked with florentined engraving typical of Burle Marx’s pieces. The shape of the stone also creates a wonderful linearity that looks beautiful on the finger. The interior of the shank is fully signed and marked for 18K.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India. He was also a favorite jewelry of Hollywood stars Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965.
• Dimensions: crown, 1-1/8” x 1/2".
• Finger Size: 4 (can be enlarged).
• Condition: excellent; no abrasions; no dings.

A very attractive 18K yellow gold ring set with an amethyst by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx is well-known for his free form designs, but his collaborations with his brother, the landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx, had a much more linear, abstract feel as in this piece. The amethyst at the center is of the very finest quality, with intensely purple color and excellent clarity. The gold is completed with the finely worked florentined finish typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior of the shank is fully signed.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India, and many others. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler to Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Brazil, ca 1970
• Excellent condition
• 1-1/16" wide at crown, tapering to 3/16" at the back of the shank
• Finger Size: 5-3/4
• 17.0 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 3.08 carats

A fascinating 18K yellow gold cocktail ring featuring a "forma livre" (free-form) amethyst by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre stones in 1948, and the style became his signature. The amethyst chosen for this ring has distinct color zoning that creates an interesting interplay of deep and light purple coloring. The setting is finished in the florentine style typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior is stamped "750" for 18K. The ring is unsigned, but is definitely by Burle Marx.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of Indian. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Brazil, ca 1965
• Very good condition; very light wear consistent with age to the stone visible under 10x magnification
• Crown Dimensions: 1-3/16 long; 7/8" wide; 3/4" high.
• Shank tapers to 1/4" at the back
Finger Size: 5-1/4
• Weight: 23.4 grams.

A beautiful pair of 18K yellow gold and diamond earrings by Gucci. The earrings are designed in a sort of “knitted” ropetwist pattern, the tops sprinkled with round single cut diamonds. The stones are graded as I color and SI1 clarity. Both earrings are marked “18Ct Italy” and signed “Gucci”. The earrings retain their original posts and omega clips, and are presented in their original fitted Gucci box.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 11/16” long; 1/2” wide. Weight: 10.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .30 ct.