Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed (145)

A vintage 18K yellow gold turtle brooch set with rubies by Cartier. The turtle’s shell is formed as interwoven wide ribbons of textured gold, the intersections prong-set with round brilliant-cut rubies. The eyes are also set with small rubies. Parts of the gold have a Florentine finish while others are smooth, creating very pleasing contrast. The rubies are of very fine quality, with strongly saturated color and eye-clean clarity. The reverse side of the pin is worked in a trellis pattern. The back is marked with “Cartier 18K” and has a serial number. The pin could easily be converted to a pendant by adding a bail under the head.

• France, circa 1965
• Excellent condition
• 1-7/16 x 1"
• 15.2 grams
• Ruby, .44 carat

An 18K yellow gold and diamond necklace for the French luxury jeweler Fred of Paris. The design features a series of bar-shaped chain links interrupted by stations collet-set with round brilliant diamonds of G color and VVS2 clarity. The necklace is 16" long and is designed to curve gently around the lower neck. This length is very versatile for either evening or day wear. The necklace is signed "Fred" and is fully hallmarked with French 18K marks.

Fred Samuelson established his Paris boutique in 1936, and quickly became a favored jeweler to Marlene Dietrich and many other luminaries of the time. Today, there are a few boutiques worldwide, but Fred is still considered an understated luxury of quintessentially Parisian style.

• France, circa 1980
• 16" long; 3/16" wide
• 27.3 grams
• 1.1 carats approximate total diamond weight

A classic 14K yellow gold "Tree of Life" pin by Mikimoto. This design is an enduring classic available only from the higher-level Mikimoto boutiques. The pin is set with twelve cultured pearls, ranging in size from 4.89 to 6.79 mm. The pearls are of exceptional AAA quality, with cream body color, rose overtones, a bright luster. The back is marked with Mikimoto's oyster shell signature.

• Japan, circa 2010
• Excellent condition
• 1 1/4" x 1 11/16"
• 8.2 grams

A classic 18K yellow gold tapered band by Tiffany & Co. set at the crown with an oval cabochon citrine. The stone has very nice slightly orangey-yellow color and eye-clean clarity. The ring has a very solid feel and can be worn by either a man or woman. The interior of the shank is marked “750” for 18K and is signed by Tiffany. This ring is no longer available at Tiffany, but originally sold for $2,150.

• Italy, ca. 2000
• Very good condition; light wear to the shank
• Finger Size: 5
• Dimensions: 5/16” wide at crown
• Weight: 8.3 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.0 carats

Vintage 18K yellow gold post-back earrings in the "Scribble" design by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. The design is sometimes called "Graffiti" or "Squiggle." The earrings were made in various sizes, with this pair being the most delicate and wearable. The backs are dated 1983 and are marked by Tiffany and Picasso.

• Origin: America, ca. 1983
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1-7/16"
• Weight: 4.9 grams

An 18K tri-color gold ring in the inconic "Double C" motif by Cartier, with a stack of yellow, white and rose gold bands terminating in yellow gold C's at the opening. The interior is marked with Cartier's signature, the serial number "F95043", and the design date "1997".

Origin: France, ca. 1997

Condition: excellent

Finger Size: 56 European/8 US (can be opened slightly)

Dimensions: band, 1/4" wide; C's, 5/16" wide

Weight: 5.2 grams

An uncommon pair of large "X" earrings by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. One arm of each earring is worked in platinum and set with round brilliant diamonds (G/VS1). This design is uncommon in the large size and very difficult to find with diamonds. The earrings retain the original posts and omega clips. The earrings are marked by Tiffany, signed by Picasso and dated 1988.

Origin: America, ca 1988

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 15/16"

Weight: 13.0 grams

Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .36 carat.

A vintage pair of Tiffany & Co. 18K yellow gold earrings in a classic ribbed shrimp design. The earrings have posts and omega backs. Marked "T&C 750".

Origin: America, ca 1980

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: 1" long; 3/8" maximum width

Weight: 14.9 grams

An elegant pair of classic Tiffany & Co. 18K yellow gold hoop earrings in a braided, twisted rope motif. The backs have posts with omega clips. The interior of each hoop is marked "Tiffany & Co. 1995 750".

Origin: America, 1995

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: 1" diameter, 1/4" width

Weight: 11.2 grams

A classic pair of vintage Tiffany & Co. 18K yellow gold triple hoop earrings. The earrings are large, but have a light appearance due to the styling. The backs have hinged omega clips, allowing posts to be added, if desired. The backs are marked "Tiffany & Co. 18K."

Origin: America, ca 1980

Condition: excellent.

Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 1-1/16"

Weight: 16.5 grams

A lovely vintage 18K yellow gold and diamond ring by Boucheron. The top of the band has a quilted ("matelassé) pattern accented with crossed bands set with brilliant round-cut diamonds (E/VVS2). The setting is heavy and quite comfortable to wear. The interior of the shank is signed “Boucheron” and is marked “Or 750 / 885513912”. The outside of the shank is stamped with the “tete d’aigle” mark and with Boucheron’s maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1990

Condition: excellent

Finger Size: 6-1/4

Dimensions: 13/32” wide

Weight: 7.5 grams

Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .8 carat

A handsome 18K yellow gold ring by Cartier in the "Lanières" design, set with diamonds and rubies. The wide gold band is decorated in an engraved checkerboard pattern, with certain squares filled in with either a brilliant round cut diamond or a round cut ruby. The ring is set with stones on only one side, so it can be turned around and worn as an handsomely geometric wide gold band. The ring can be worn by either a man or woman. The diamonds are graded as F color, SI1 clarity; the rubies are of equally fine quality with good color saturation and minimal inclusions. The inside of the ring is signed “Cartier”, marked “750” for 18K, marked “54” for the European size (the ring actually measures a 55), and has the serial number “949696”.

Origin: France, ca. 1970s. Finger Size: 54/55 (European), 7-1/8 (American). Band Width: 1/2”. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .20 carat; ruby, .32 carat. Weight: 15.7 grams.

A fine example of some of the best enameled silver produced by David-Andersen in the late 1950s. This brooch represents "Spring" from the "Four Seasons" line designed for David-Andersen by Thorbjorn Lie-Jorgensen in the late 1950s. The set of designs represent an abstract aerial views of the same landscape in each of the four seasons. "Spring" is worked in lush shades of turquoise, teal blue, gold and brown. The back, with the original patina, retains the original pinstem and c-clasp, and is marked "D-A", "925S" and "Norway-Sterling".

Origin: Norway, ca. 1959. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 1-11/16" x 1-5/16". Weight: 16.25 grams.

An extremely rare 18K yellow gold Sputnik bracelet by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridot, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. The Sputnik line was made in rings, earrings, pendants, charms, brooches and rarest of all, bracelets. The clasp is marked for 18K and has Stern's older hallmark.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: length, 7-3/4"; width, 15/16". Weight: 28.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 19.0 cts.

A rare pair of large 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridot, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. These earrings are of a particularly large size. The earrings currently have posts, but those could be removed if desired. Marked for 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 1-3/32" diameter. Weight: 16.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 16.34 cts.

A nice 18K gold Sputnik ring by H Stern, the dome bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. The gems in this ring tend toward richer autumnal colors with a lot of garnet-red, gold and medium-dark green. Stamped with an early Stern mark and "750" for 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 7/8" diameter. Finger Size: 6-1/2 to 6-3/4. Weight: 4.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.96 cts.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, green and pink tourmalines, and garnets. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This pair has strong, saturated mid-tone autumnal colors. Each earring is marked for 18K and also has the early maker's mark for H Stern. Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 6.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.34 cts.

A vintage pair of 18K yellow gold and diamond ear clips in the "Tiffany Signature Series" created by Tiffany & Co. in 1992. The classic design is the in the form of reeded bands studded with round brilliant cut diamonds creating a sort of basket weave pattern. The diamonds are F/VVS1. The earrings were made without posts, but the clip is open, so posts could easily be added for extra security. The backs are marked "1992 Tiffany & Co. 750". They are presented in their original Tiffany box.

Tiffany Signature Series pieces were made with and without diamonds. Princess Diana purchased the earrings, without diamonds, in 1993

Origin: America, ca. 1992. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1" x 11/16". Weight 21.0 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.25 cts.

NOTE: Wee are also offering a matching ring (Item #1352629)

An extraordinary modernist fringe necklace in 18K yellow gold and green tourmaline by the famed Brazilian modernist jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre ("free form") gemstones in 1948, and the technique became his signature. Most often, he used colorful stones native to Brazil—tourmalines, amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, etc. The tourmalines in this necklace are of the finest quality, with pure deep green coloring that contrasts beautifully with the gold mounting. Burle Marx never used pre-cast elements in his jewelry, and each piece was completely raised by hand from a gold ingot. All the plain gold links are accented with a brushed texture, and the links set with tourmalines have a contrasting florentined finish. The back of the clasp is stamped with Burle Marx's signature and 18K marks.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for the empresses of Japan and Iran, the queen of Denmark, and the prime minister of India, among others. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Mergle Oberon.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 2-1/16" wide from the necklace line to the bottom of the central drop; overall necklace length, 16" (our jeweler can hand-make additional matching links to achieve your desired overall length.) Weight: 81.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 57.58 cts.

NOTE: We also have a matching ring acquired from the same source (Item #1350545).

An elegant 18K yellow gold, Akoya pearl and diamond heart ring by Mikimoto. The diamond-studded heart is centered with a cluster of three 4.3-4.5mm pearls, graded as extra-fine AAA—the highest possible quality rating. They have fine luster and white body color with rosé overtones. The diamonds are E/VVS. The interior of the shank is stamped with Mikimoto's hallmark.

The ring is accompanied by a 2006 written Bailey, Banks & Biddle appraisal for $2150.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Dimensions: heart, 5/8" x 1/2". Weight: gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 ct.

A vintage 18K yellow gold and diamond ring in the "Tiffany Signature Series" created by Tiffany & Co. in 1992. The classic design is the form of three reeded bands studded with round brilliant-cut diamonds to create a sort of basketweave pattern. The diamonds are F/VVS1. The interior of the shank is marked "1992 Tiffany & Co. 750".

Tiffany Signature Series pieces were made with and without diamonds. Princess Diana purchased the earrings and bracelet, both without diamonds, in 1993.

Origin: America, 1992. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-1/4. Dimensions: 7/16" wide. Weight: 9.8 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 ct.

NOTE: We are offering a matching pair of earrings, as well (Item #1353096).

A superb modernist bracelet in 18K yellow gold set with multi-colored gemstones by Bruno Guidi. Guidi was the lead designer and chief goldsmith the the acclaimed Brazilian jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx for more than 30 years. Each piece was created entirely by hand starting from a piece of gold, without the aid of any molds or pre-made elements. In this bracelet, each of the ten links features a colorful cabochon gemstone native to Brazil—amethyst; citrine; moonstone; and blue, pink and green tourmaline. The links are individually hinged so the bracelet is flexible and comfortable. The clasp is stamped "Brazil 18J Bruno Guidi."

After Burle Marx's death in 1972, Bruno Guidi and his brother Flavio continued working for a few years, making many of the designs they had originally created for Burle Marx.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1992. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" wide; 6-1/2" long. Weight: 41.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.7 cts.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, green and pink tourmalines, and garnets. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This pair has strong, saturated mid-tone colors throughout. Each earring is marked for 18K and also has the early maker's mark for H Stern. Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 5/8" diameter. Weight: 4.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.38 cts.

A wonderful 18K yellow gold cocktail ring featuring a "forma livre" (free-form) green tourmaline by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre stones in 1948, and the style became his signature. The tourmaline has a deep green color with just a tiny hint of blue undertones, and is set in a florentined finished typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior of the shank is fully signed with Burle Marx's marks.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba or Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi or India. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jewelry of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/4" long x 11/16" wide x 1/2" deep; shank tapering to 1/8". Finger Size: 5 (the signature is placed in a way that the ring can be sized up). Weight: 16.5 gr. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 26.0 cts.

A vintage 18K yellow and white gold ring set with a .33 ct round brilliant cut diamond by Cartier. The colored gold is worked in a geometric design around the diamond. The diamond is graded G color, VS2 clarity. The ring has a substantial presence due to the width of the band. The interior is signed "Cartier", is marked "750", is dated "1989" and has the serial number "278QO.25".

Origin: America, 1989. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" wide at front, tapering to 3/8" at back. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 11.1 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .33 ct.

A magnificent 18K gold, sapphire, emerald and ruby dome ring by David Webb. The textured gold is accented with rows of ropework bands punctuated with collet-set cabochon gemstones. The rich, intense colors of the stones beautifully accent the intricate gold. The extra-wide shank keeps this heavy statement ring from turning on the finger. The interior is signed "Webb 18K."

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 15/16" wide, tapering to 5/8" at the back. Finger Size: 8. Weight: 31.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: emerald, 1.18 cts; sapphire, 1.89 cts; ruby, 2.15 cts.

An exceptional Boucheron cocktail ring set with nine round brilliant diamonds and thirteen round emeralds. The diamonds are graded as E/VVS1 and the emeralds have intensely saturated medium-dark green color and very good clarity. The emeralds are characteristic of stones from Colombia. The glamorous marquise shape is generously sized, covering the entire first portion of the finger. The stones are clustered tightly together so almost no gold shows from the top, and layered so the crown rises more than a half-inch from the surface of the finger. The interior of the shank is signed "Boucheron Paris", "Or 750", "51469". The exterior is stamped with the French guarantee mark and the master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 1-3/16" x 3/4". Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.75 cts; emerald, 3.75 cts. Boucheron's exceptional diamond and emerald cocktail ring set in 18K yellow gold packs a punch of color and glitter. The glamorous marquise shape covers the entire first joint of the finger with shimmering gemstones. The stones are layered tightly together so almost no gold shows through and layered so that the crown of the ring stands more than a half-inch off the finger. The nine round brilliant cut diamonds have E color and VVS1 clarity, and the twelve emeralds have intensely saturated color xcellent cut and clarity. The ring

A classic 14K yellow gold “Tree of Life” pin by Mikimoto. This design is an enduring classic available only from the higher-end Mikimoto boutiques. The pin is set with twelve cultured pearls, ranging in size from 3.99 to 5.42mm. The pearls are of exceptional AA quality, with cream body color and pronounced rose overtones. The luster is very bright and the surfaces are nearly blemish-free. The back is marked 14K and has Mikimoto’s oyster shell signature. At Mikimoto’s Place Vendome boutique in Paris, this pin is currently offered for approximately $1,500. Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-3/8” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 6.0 gr.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set iwth round citrines, amethysts, green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It last came to be called "Sputnik" because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite of launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. The inside of the shank has a worn hallmark. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 1" diameter. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Weight: 6.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.57 cts.

An unusual 18K yellow gold pendant in the Sputnik design by H Stern. Most examples of Sputnik jewelry are set with multi-colored gemstones, but occasionally a piece turns up with a single color—in the case amethyst. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the colored gemstones available from the Stern mines in Brazil. It later earned the nickname “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4” diameter. Weight: 2.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.51 cts.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved amethyst in the "forma livre" (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The amethyst's deep purple color beautifully contrasts with the gold, which is worked with florentined engraving typical of Marx's pieces. Tested and guaranteed 18K. Marx did not always sign his pieces; this ring was either unsigned or the signature was removed when the ring was resized at the back of the shank.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, the ring has been sized at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: crown, 1" x 9/16"; shank tapers to 3/16" at the back. Weight: 15.3 gr.

An extremely rare 18K yellow gold bracelet in the Sputnik design by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s mines in Brazil. It later came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. The design was made in earrings, pendants, charms, rings, brooches and bracelets, with bracelets being by far the most uncommon. Marked 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, needs a new safety catch. Dimensions: 5/8” wide; 7-1/4” long. Weight: 21.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.44 carats.

A classic Mikimoto ring featuring a cluster of 6.3mm pearls crowned with a star of six round brilliant diamonds of G color and VVS2 clarity. The pearls have fine luster, with cream body color and rose overtones, and are graded AA. The shank is stamped with Mikimoto’s hallmark and for 18K gold.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 5/8” diameter. Finger Size: 7. Weight: 5.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .18 ct.

pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by Barry Kieselstein-Cord resembling a spiraled seashell. The gold has the softly burnished texture typical of Kieselstein-Cord’s designs in the 1980s. The omega clips are original, but posts could easily be added. Each earring is signed.

Origin: America, ca. 1985. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1/2". Weight: 13.6 grams.

A pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in Barry Kieselstein-Cord’s classic “Caviar” pattern. Introduced in the early 1980’s, this design takes its name from the row of gold spheres the run through the center of the scroll. The design was used for a several styles of earrings, as well as bracelets and other jewels. These earrings are a smaller style and are more comfortable to wear than many of the other pieces. The omega clips are original, but posts could be added easily. Each earring is signed and dated 1981.

Origin: America, 1981. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 13/16” x 13/16”. Weight: 19.5 grams.

An 18K yellow gold buckle ring enhanced with enamel in Gucci's trademark Kelly green. The simplicity of the design is classic Gucci. The interior of the shank is signed "Gucci 18" Italy".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1970. Dimensions: shank, 3/16" wide. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 3.4 grams.