Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1036)

A very fine 18K yellow gold fancy link chain necklace featuring round and teardrop links interspersed with smaller navette-shaped links. Each of the handmade fancy links is further enhanced with elegant beaded decoration. Necklaces in this style were a quintessentially French design near the end of the 19th century and they look especially elegant when layered with other chains. The length is sufficient to be worn doubled. Stamped with French 18K marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 32" long. Weight: 46.3 gr.

An elegant pair of Art Deco drop earrings featuring elongated teardrops of rich green chalcedony, accented with small natural pearls, and suspended from 18K white gold leaf-shaped surmounts. The chalcedony has a particularly nice color and excellent translucency. These earrings are a good example of transitional jewelry between the Edwardian style, with its use of white metal and pearls, and the Art Deco style, with its emphasis on scale and color. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, the clutches are 14K. Dimensions: 2-3/8" long. Weight: 5.6 gr.

A stunning 18K yellow gold locket by Auguste Peyroula in the shape of a heart decorated with rich blue guilloché enamel enclosed in a foliate-engraved gold border. The front cover is enhanced with a pair of gold cornucopias overflowing with roses and tied with a silver ribbon studded with 16 small rose-cut diamonds. The locket is completed with a bail decorated with floral engraving. The interior of the locket retains its original lining. Both sides of the locket are stamped with Peyroula's hallmark. From 1904 until 1937, Peyroula specialized in small enameled luxury goods such as compacts, cigarette cases, lipstick cases, etc. Most were designed in cooperation with and retailed by the leading French jewelry houses of the day, including Cartier, Boucheron and Tiffany.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks, light surface wear to the enamel on the back face. Dimensions: 7/8" x 1-1/4". Weight: 11.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 ct.

A delightful Chinese antique carved agate pendant enhanced with its original knotted silk cord and Type A (untreated) green jadeite bead, finished with a 14K yellow gold bail. The carving represents a male elder seated atop a fish and holding a pair of plums over his shoulder. The carving makes nice use of the agate's natural coloring to represent the fish and fruit. In Chinese symbology, the fish is a sign of wealth and abundance, and the plum is a sign for longevity. The jadeite bead is semi-translucent, with moderate mottling and medium grain. This pendant was salvaged from ca 1900 Chinese necklace that was far too worn to repair. In both the original necklace and in this pendant, the carving is designed to hang upside down so that it appears right-side-up when the wearer holds the pendant and raises it up in her own hand.

Origin: China, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, very light wear along edges consistent with age. Dimensions: 7/8" wide; 1-11/16" long from top of bail.

NOTE: Other pieces created from the original antique necklace include Items #1344595, 1350547, and 1350538.

An elegant pair of earrings featuring Type A (untreated) green jadeite beads and 14K yellow gold beads taken from an ornate antique Chinese necklace (ca. 1900) that was far too worn to salvage. The jadeite beads are semi-translucent, with even coloring and moderately-fine texture. The gold beads have applied vermicelli decoration. The earrings are finished with 14K yellow gold posts and clutches. Other elements taken from the same antique necklace can be seen in Items #1350538,

Origin: China, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: beads, 6.2mm diameter; overall length, 1-3/16".

NOTE: Other pieces created from the original antique necklace include Items #1350538, #1344595, and 1350553.

A wonderful 18K yellow gold cocktail ring featuring a "forma livre" (free-form) green tourmaline by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre stones in 1948, and the style became his signature. The tourmaline has a deep green color with just a tiny hint of blue undertones, and is set in a florentined finished typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior of the shank is fully signed with Burle Marx's marks.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba or Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi or India. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jewelry of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/4" long x 11/16" wide x 1/2" deep; shank tapering to 1/8". Finger Size: 5 (the signature is placed in a way that the ring can be sized up). Weight: 16.5 gr. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 26.0 cts.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant ("medille d'amour") with a rebus spelling out "Plus qu'hier, moins que demain" ("More than yesterday, less than tomorrow") a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of "Cyrano de Bergerac") in 1889. The word "plus" is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamonds and the word "moins" is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed by Augis, is of better than average quality, with intricate engraving on the background and a lovely engraved floral border. The oval shape is also less common the the usual circle. The use of rose cut diamonds, synthetic rubies and Augis' signature indicates that this is an earlier example. The smaller size is perfect as a pendant on a delicate chain or for wear on a charm bracelet. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis' maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" x 7/8" (from top of bail).

An antique green jadeite Pi pendant suspended on a knotted silk cord embroidered with seed pearls and strung with a jadeite bead, finished with a contemporary 14K yellow gold bail. In traditional Chinese belief, the Pi (sometimes spelled "Bi") represents the heavenly deities and the central hole allows souls to access Heaven. The Pi has medium-light green color with moderate mottling, medium grain and medium translucency. The jade bead is darker color and is more opaque. The pendant was salvaged from a ca. 1900 antique necklace that was far too worn to be saved in its entirety. The jade is Type A (no treatment).

Origin: China, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; no cracks or chips; the cord, pearls and bead are original. Dimensions: Pi diameter, 1"; overall length, 2-3/16" from top of bail.

NOTE: Other pieces created from the original antique necklace include Items #1350547, #1344595, and #1350553.

A delightfully whimsical late Victorian 18K yellow gold stick pin depicting a circus elephant balancing atop a pearl ball. The elephant is very nicely detailed. The pin stem is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: head, 13/32" x 7/16". Weight: 2.9 gr.

A vintage 18K yellow and white gold ring set with a .33 ct round brilliant cut diamond by Cartier. The colored gold is worked in a geometric design around the diamond. The diamond is graded G color, VS2 clarity. The ring has a substantial presence due to the width of the band. The interior is signed "Cartier", is marked "750", is dated "1989" and has the serial number "278QO.25".

Origin: America, 1989. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" wide at front, tapering to 3/8" at back. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 11.1 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .33 ct.

A magnificent 18K gold, sapphire, emerald and ruby dome ring by David Webb. The textured gold is accented with rows of ropework bands punctuated with collet-set cabochon gemstones. The rich, intense colors of the stones beautifully accent the intricate gold. The extra-wide shank keeps this heavy statement ring from turning on the finger. The interior is signed "Webb 18K."

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 15/16" wide, tapering to 5/8" at the back. Finger Size: 8. Weight: 31.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: emerald, 1.18 cts; sapphire, 1.89 cts; ruby, 2.15 cts.

An exceptional and extremely rare 14K yellow gold and green tourmaline ring by Edward Everett Oakes. The shank is fashioned as serrated leaves that gradually open to enclose a prong-set round brilliant-cut green tourmaline at the crown. The tourmaline is graded as medium dark, strong, lightly yellowish Green (slyG 6/6); excellent cut; and Type I eye-clean clarity.

Edward Everett Oakes (1891-1960) was perhaps the foremost Arts & Crafts jeweler in America. He was a member (and medallist) of the Boston Arts & Crafts Society, and became the first living artist to have a work acquired for the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He trained with Frank Gardner Hale and worked for three years with Josephine Hartwell Shaw, before opening his own studio in 1917. Oakes' work shows a certain similarity to both Hale and Shaw, but Oakes' mature style is noticeably original. Most of his pieces are unsigned, but can be identified based on their unique decorative motifs and construction techniques.

Oakes regularly visited Camp Deephaven and Camp Rockywold on Squam Lake in New Hampshire. The original owner of this ring purchased it directly from Oakes during one of her 68 consecutive annual summer stays at the camps. The purchaser will be supplied with a copy of a letter from the original owner's niece describing her aunt's purchases.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, has been sized. Size: 9/16" wide at crown. Finger Size: 6. Weight: 6.5 gr Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.54 cts.

An exceptional Boucheron cocktail ring set with nine round brilliant diamonds and thirteen round emeralds. The diamonds are graded as E/VVS1 and the emeralds have intensely saturated medium-dark green color and very good clarity. The emeralds are characteristic of stones from Colombia. The glamorous marquise shape is generously sized, covering the entire first portion of the finger. The stones are clustered tightly together so almost no gold shows from the top, and layered so the crown rises more than a half-inch from the surface of the finger. The interior of the shank is signed "Boucheron Paris", "Or 750", "51469". The exterior is stamped with the French guarantee mark and the master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 1-3/16" x 3/4". Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.75 cts; emerald, 3.75 cts. Boucheron's exceptional diamond and emerald cocktail ring set in 18K yellow gold packs a punch of color and glitter. The glamorous marquise shape covers the entire first joint of the finger with shimmering gemstones. The stones are layered tightly together so almost no gold shows through and layered so that the crown of the ring stands more than a half-inch off the finger. The nine round brilliant cut diamonds have E color and VVS1 clarity, and the twelve emeralds have intensely saturated color xcellent cut and clarity. The ring

A perfect way to wear a little of the Gilded Age right on your own hand! The lovely navette shape is slimming on the finger and can even be worn on the middle or index finger. The ring has a delicate appearance but enough length to make a statement. The warm glow of medium-toned center ruby contrasts beautifully with the sparkle of the four diamonds (I/SI2) surrounding it. The yelow gold shake is set with a four additional rubies flanking the navette. The interior of the shank is marked "14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/4 (easily sized up or down several notches). Dimensions: 3/4" long. Weight: 4.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .20 ct; ruby, .40 ct.

A nice 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. The gems in this ring are particularly brilliant in mid-tone colors surrounding the central aquamarine. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 13/16" diameter. Finger Size: 6. Weight: 5.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.99 cts.

An exceptionally fine, heavy 18K yellow gold bracelet by Pierre Baltensperger. Each of the plaques represents a different flower, depicted in semi-abstract ways. Among the flowers are daisies, cyclamens, fuschias, morning glories and honeysuckle. Baltensperger was founded in 1878 by Walter Baltensperger, who quickly established the firm’s luxury reputation. His grandson Pierre Baltensperger assumed the lead in 1950. Pierre, born in 1927, became one of Switzerland’s most important sculptors and visual artists, in addition to his work with jewelry. This design, though similar in some respects to Georg Jensen’s work from the 1920s, likely dates to the late 1940s. The clasp is signed “Baltensperger” and has 18K marks and inventory numbers.

Origin: Zurich, Switzerland, ca. 1947. Dimensions: 5/8” x 7-5/8”. Weight: 40.0 gr.

A stunning pair of Victorian 14K gold, onyx and pearl earrings fashioned as onyx leaves or teardrops with gold and pearl lily-of-the-valley appliques. The scrolled surmounts are also accented with seed pearls. The pearls have nice luster and iridescence. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn The wires are likely a later replacement and are marked “14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks. Dimensions: 19/32” wide x 1-3/4” long (to top of wire). Weight: 7.5 gr.

A fine handmade Victorian 18K yellow gold necklace with an extraordinary length of 46 inches. Alternating links are decorated with a twisted rope motif. The necklace is has a spring ring clasp at one end and a tension pendant clasp at the other, so it can be worn full-length or doubled, with or without an pendant. Wound six times, it can be worn as a bracelet, as well. Marked “18” for 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, all original. Length: 46”. Weight: 47.4 gr.

An impressive and beautifully-crafted large Victorian locket, each face carved from a single piece of onyx. The front cover is adorned with a gold floral spray studded with small natural seed pearls of the best quality. Seed pearls often have a chalky appearance but these have lovely luster and iridescence. The interior of the locket retains its original frame glass, as well as woven hair. The hair, of course, could easily be replaced with a portrait. The locket is suspended from an elegant bail, enameled in black and set with pearls. The bail has a shepherd’s hook closure so it will fit onto even the thickest of chains. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent; all original; no cracks or enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-7/16” x 1-7/8” (2-1/2” including bail). Weight: 34.2 gr.

A very pretty 14K gold and pink sapphire solitaire ring. The oval brilliant-cut sapphire has a nice raspberry pink color that shows well in the high cathedral-style setting. The sapphire has very good clarity and does not show indications of any heat or other treatment. The shank is enhanced with white gold floral elements on either side of the sapphire. The interior of the shank is marked “14K”. The ring would be perfect as a colored stone engagement ring.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 2.3 gr. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .61 ct.

An 18K yellow gold Sputnik pendant by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with 19 round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, garnets, and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950's to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It came to be called "Sputnik" because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, no dings. Dimensions: 13/16". Weight: 3.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.96 cts.

A nice 18K gold figural stick pin in the form of a bear, nicely detailed with engraved fur. The stem is spiraled, indicating an earlier date. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: head, 5/8” x 5/16”; overall length, 2-5/8”. Weight: 3.5 gr.

A very fine Victorian 14K yellow gold chain necklace made of fancy open-work links with diamond plaque appliques alternating with reeded circular links. The reeded surfaces gift the gold a soft, shimmering appearance rather highly reflective. The large spring ring can be used simply as a clasp or to suspend and locket or pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1/2" wide; 20-1/2” long. Weight: 29.5 gr.

An elegant very early Edwardian 14K yellow gold ring of navette shape set with an interesting spotted or moss agate cabochon. The agate's body color is a translucent goldish-gray color with darker markings that resemble a tiger's stripes. The gold setting is delicately enhanced with bright-cut engraving. The very long navette shape is very flattering to the finger. The interior of the shank is stamped "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Ring Size: 8. Dimensions: crown 7/16" x 1-1/8". Weight: 5.2 gr.

A wonderful, heavy 14K yellow gold fob seal of oval form surmounted by a pair of snarling chimera heads with curling tongues. These creatures from Greek mythology were part lion, part goat and part dragon and could breathe fire. The most famous chimera was killed by the hero Bellerophon with the help of the winged horse Pegasus. The engraved details on the heads are very well done are accented with further foliate engraving along the bottom edge of the seal. The base was never engraved. Tested and guaraneed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1885. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 9/16" x 1-5/8" tall. Weight: 15.6 gr.

A very nice 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm or pendant featuring oval brilliant cut and round cabochon amethysts. The exposed areas of gold are enhanced with twisted wire, rosettes, beading and piercing. The charm is a good size for wearing on a bracelet or as a necklace pendant. Marked "750" for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8" long (not including jump ring); 7/8" diameter at base. Weight: 8.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.89 cts.

A fine 18K yellow gold Sputnik charm or pendant by H Stern. The sphere is bezel-set with 21 round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, aquamarines, and garnets. This design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. This example is a little darker than most examples, with lots of deeply saturated greens and golds. The sputnik design was made in rings, earrings, pendants, bracelets, brooches and charms. Charms are among the less common forms, and this example is large enough to be worn as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: very good, a 1/8” ding on one side between the gemstones. Dimensions: 1” diameter. Weight: 5.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.34 cts.

An extraordinarily fine Art Deco gentleman's ring in the Egyptian Revival style featuring a large cabochon of the finest Afghan-quality lapis lazuli. The setting is formed as a grouping of stylized lotus plants, complete with leaves, buds and full-blown blossoms forming the collets that hold the stone. The quality of the hand-engraving is superb. Ancient Egyptian decorative elements were very popular in European and American jewelry following the opening of Tutankhamun's tomb in 1924. The gold has a bright yellow color, with hints of green that are appropriate for the vegetal nature of the design. The lapis is a seamless expanse of dark violet-blue. Solid blue lapis is far rarer and more desirable than stones with bits of gold-colored mica. At the time this ring was made, such stones could only be found in the mountains of Afghanistan. The stone is cut in an unusual high-domed rectangular shape. The interior of the shank is stamped "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 25/32" wide at crown, tapering to 1/8" at the tack. Finger Size: 8-1/4 (can be sized without damage to the design). Weight: 13.3 gr.

A very nice Victorian 9K gold buckle ring, fully engraved with an ornate floral and foliate pattern against a stippled background. The gold has faint rose tint. The ring shows almost no wear. The width of the band and larger finger size make this ring ideal for man. The interior of the shank is fully stamped with Chester hallmarks for 1896.

Origin: England, 1896. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 7/16" at the buckle, tapering to 5/32" at the back. Finger Size: 9-3/4. Weight: 4.5 gr.

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bracelet comprising individual links fashioned as abstract bellflowers, each set with an oval cabochon rhodolite garnet. Each link is further enhanced with appliques to suggest leaves, tendrils and seed pods. The overall design is very much in the Jensen expression of Skonvirke. The rhodolite garnets have lovely purple coloring. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: possibly Denmark, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4†wide; 8†long. Weight: 29.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.95 cts.

A nice Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the cover decorated with an ornately detailed lion’s head. The cat’s mane flares out from the face grasping a round cut diamond and ruby-set eyes. The interior of the locket retains its original frames and glass covers. The gold surfaces have the slightly matte finish popular at the end of the 19th century. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no monogram. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter. Weight: 7.9 gr. Diamond Weight: .05 ct.

A heavy Retro bracelet in 14K yellow gold set with amethysts by Tiffany & Co. The bracelet is designed as large arched links, each centered by rectangular step-cut amethyst. The stones have vivid violet coloring and excellent brilliance, without the color zoning that sometimes mars amethysts. The clasp is stamped Tiffany & Co. The bracelet is presented in its original leather and silk box.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32†wide; 7†long. Weight: 53.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 24.3 cts.

A fine 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. This example has darker, warmer shades with an almost autumnal tone. The shank is stamped “18K”.

Origin: Brazil ca 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 15/16” diameter. Finger Size: 8-3/4”. Weight: 5.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.65 cts.

A lovely 18K yellow gold bracelet designed as floral plaques separated by bezel set blue sapphire cabochons. Each elegantly pierced gold plaque depicts a rose encircled by scrolls and flanked by additional flowers. The backs of the plaques are engraved in a matching motif. The high-domed cabochons have fine deep blue coloring and show no indications of heat treatment. The clasp is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 9/16” wide; 7-3/8” long
• Weight: 22.8 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 3.12 carats

A 14K white gold pendant featuring a prong-set 1.04 carat diamond (H/I1). The diamond has very good cut and brilliance. The pendant is accompanied by an 18-3/4" white gold chain.

A 14K white gold ring set with a .77-carat round brilliant-cut diamond (I color, SI2 clarity, VG cut) surrounded by a horseshoe motif set with .25 carats of rose cut diamonds over a pierced gallery. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Finger Size: 5-3/4. Dimensions: crown, 1/2" x 5/8". Weight: 4.2 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: featured stone, .77 ct; mine cuts, .25 ct.