Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1645)

A very fine Retro Moderne brooch in the form of a three-leaf clover, each leaf fashioned from an heart-shaped aquamarine, and centered with a pearl. The aquamarines are simply framed in gold collet settings with halo wirework accented with beading. The stones, 1.33 carats on either side and 1.87 carats at the top, have stunning pure blue coloring without a hint of gray. The 5.5mm pearl has an ivory body color with rosé overtones, and a very nice, lustrous surface. The back of the brooch retains the original pinstem and safety clasp, and is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: Excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” x 1-7/32”. Weight: 4.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.53 carats.

A phenomenal Victorian 18K yellow gold brooch in the Etruscan Revival taste. The brooch features a large azurite-malachite cabochon weighing more than 60 carats. The natural fissures, and blue and green color mottling is striking, especially against the richness of the gold. The setting is one of the best Etruscan frames we’ve seen, befitting a minerological specimen that would have been considered extravagantly exotic (probably originating in Afghanistan). The stone is set in a collet surrounded with a border of beaded rosettes flanked on either side with delicate twisted wire. The frame is decorated at compass points with shell motifs outlined with twisted wirework. Cyma scrolls and graduated beading fill the space between the shells. The surface of the gold has the slightly matte bloomed finish that lends the appearance of antiquity to the better Etruscan pieces. The back of the brooch retains the original c-clasp and extended pinstem. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America or England, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, the border has two of the tiny rosettes and a tiny portion of one cyma scroll missing, but these are noticeable only upon very close inspection. Size: 2” x 1-11/16”. Weight: 19.75 grams.

A superb pair of 18K gold earrings from the Retro period. Each earring is shaped as a pair of golden flowers, the centers collet-set with old European-cut diamonds. They are also designed so that they could be worn as dress clips on either side of the neckline. The flower stems are gathered with double ribbons set with square-cut rubies. The diamonds have very nice color, probably in the G-H range, and good clarity estimated at SI2. The rubies have intense color that contrasts beautifully with the gold. The backs retain the original earclips with small hollowed out areas that can accommodate a small piece of cork, rubber or wax to cushion the clip. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4" x 3/4". Weight: 10.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .4 carat; ruby, .22 carat.

Very nice, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks that resemble a link taken from a large chain. One cross-end is fixed, but the other is hinged so the cufflinks can pass through the hole. These cufflinks look very stylish streamlined appearance when being worn. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” x 3/4". Weight: 14.0 grams.

An elegant Retro Moderne 14K yellow gold brooch in a stylized bow form, the center set with a large emerald-cut citrine of medium honey color, and the loops sprinkled with round brilliant-cut rubies. Some Retro pieces can be overly heavy, but this pin has a pleasant lightness despite its large size. The gemstones are of fine quality. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3” x 1”. Weight: 15.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .5 carat; citrine, 10.4 carats.

A great pair of Art Nouveau sterling silver bean-back cufflinks in the form of dogwood flowers. The faces are very nicely detailed. The backs of the faces and the connectors are marked “Sterling”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 13/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 7.5 grams.

A nice pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold cufflinks. The rectangular faces have curved sides. One face of each cufflinks has nice engine-turned and floral engraving. The other faces have a plain surface with an engraved border perfect for a monogram. The connectors are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no monogram. Size: 5/8” x 15/32”. Weight: 3.5 grams.

Classic pair of double-sided Edwardian cufflinks in 14K yellow gold. The octagonal faces are engraved with concentric circles and bordered with a notched border. The faces are joined by bar connectors. The backs are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 17/32” diameter. Weight: 5.0 grams.

A rare Victorian 14K yellow gold stick pin featuring a reverse-carved Essex crystal depicting a Chihuahua. Various dog breeds were depicted in Essex crystals, but this is the only piece we’ve seen with a dog that looks like a Chihuahua. The round setting, with its simple but finely crafted rope-twist border highlights the carved crystal. The colors are strong. The background appears to be silvered instead of the more usual mother-of-pearl. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1885. Condition: some oxidation to painted details. Size: head, 13/16” diameter; overall length, 2-3/4”. Weight: 6.75 grams.

A stunning pair of late Victorian earrings in 18K yellow gold with diamonds, coral and onyx. The coral bead surmounts are punctuated with small collet-set diamonds and suspend gold buttercup settings, the tips accented with black enamel and holding oval cushion-cut diamonds, further suspending an enameled gold belt pave-set with rose-cut diamonds and flanked by a trio of red coral teardrops topped with small onyx beads. Everything about these earrings is of the very best quality. The diamonds are bright and well-cut, the gold settings are inventive, and the coral has the wonderful reddish hue of coral from the Italian coast near Naples. The earrings have threaded posts. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-1/4” long. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .54 carat. Weight: 11.0 grams.

Superb Mikimoto brooch in the shape of a harp. The harp’s sounding board is set with a row of ten fine AA pearls graduating from 3.3 to 5.8 millimeters, and the strings are studded with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The neck and column, both worked in gold, are beautifully detailed. The pearls are of exceptional quality with light cream body color and rosé overtones. The luster is very bright and the pearls are well matched. The diamonds are SI1/2 clarity and G/H color. Mikimto figural brooches are very rare, and this example is nearly certainly a custom-made piece. The back is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “750” for 18K gold. The brooch is accompanied by a March 2006 written appraisal from the Mikimoto specialist at Bailey, Banks & Biddle for $3,250.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/32” x 1-5/32”. Weight: 11.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .12 carat.

A very nice Victorian silver brooch set with agates. The brooch is shaped as a modified Jerusalem cross. The stones, including banded agate and bloodstone, have good color contrast and are surrounded with delicate engraved decoration. Silver and gold jewelry set with Scottish agate became very popular when Queen Victoria started the fashion for all things Scottish. The back retains the original c-clasp and extended pinstem.

The Jerusalem cross, first appearing during the crusades, is made up of five interlocking crosses that represent the five European nations active in the crusades—Britain, France, Germany, Spain and Italy. The crosses also reference the five principalities of the kingdom of Jerusalem and the five wounds inflicted during the crucifixion.

Origin: Scotland or England, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-17/32” x 1-5/16”. Weight: 5.25 grams.

A fine pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold tassel earrings. The foxtail chains are suspended from bell-shaped surmounts with bands of engraved decoration and applied flowers worked in rose and green gold. Each foxtail chain ends in a small gold sphere. The earrings have an elegant look, without being too heavy for comfortable wear. The surmounts are marked with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, wires are replacements. Size: 1-3/8” long. Weight: 5.5 grams.

Stunning platinum and diamond earrings in the "stile guirland" or "garland style" developed in Paris by Cartier, but first made fashionable by Queen Alexandra of England. Each earring is composed of a floral motif surmount, suspending a bow, suspending a wreath circled about another floral motif, suspending a teardrop. Each earring is fully articulated, so that all the parts move independently with the slightest movement. Each earring contains 51 round brilliant-cut diamonds of very fine color and clarity. The larger stones are collet-set, while the smaller stones are bead-set. The platinum setting is very finely millegrained. The backs are marked "PT900".

Origin: American, circa 1980. Condition: excellent; the posts are original and the clutches are 18 karat white gold replacements (a normal occurence, since clutches tend to wear out or get lost easily). Size: 2" long. Weight: 18.75 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.5 carats.

A very nice Art Deco scarab bracelet set in silver. Three glass scarabs alternate with pierced silver sunbursts set with marcasites. The sparkle of the marcasites is a nice foil for the heaviness of the scarabs. Scarab jewelry became popular after the discovery of King Tut’s tomb in the 1920s. The back is marked “Sterling”.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/4” long.

An amusing late Victorian brooch fashioned as two crossed golf clubs. The shafts are worked in 18K yellow gold, while the heads are made in platinum. A small pearl, representing a golf ball rests against each club. Sporting jewelry is quite desirable, and golf-related pieces are particularly rare. The back retains the original pinstem and c-clasp. Stamped with French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/4” x 3/8”. Weight: 2.0 grams.

Beautiful 14K yellow gold and cultured pearl brooch by Mikimoto. The swirling gold frame is punctuated with very high quality pearls post-set pearls and can be worn either horizontally or vertically. The pearls have superb lustre and Mikimoto's classic ivory color with rose overtones. The sizes range from 5 to 7mm. The back is stamped with Mikimoto's hallmark.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-15/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 10.0 grams.

Elegant Retro 18K yellow and white gold brooch in the form of a phoenix--the mythological bird that arises from the ashes. The wings are beautifully formed from ribbons of gold that give the effect of trailing plumage. The body and crested head are fashioned from white gold and are pavé-set with 55 rose-cut diamonds. The white gold not only highlights the diamonds, but also provides a nice contrast with the yellow gold feathers. The eye represented by a brilliant-cut ruby. The brooch has nice depth and flow to the design. The back is stamped with French "tête d'aigle" 18K gold hallmarks, and with an unidentified maker's mark. The back retains the original pinstem and trombone clasp.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-7/8" x 1-7/8". Weight: 21.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.1 carats; ruby, .05 carat.