Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1406)

A stunning pair of 18K yellow and white gold earrings by Faraone in cooperation with Tiffany & Co. The yellow gold half-hoops are accented with white gold "stems" that burst open flowers set with marquise cut rubies. The rubies have fine slightly purplish-red color saturation. Intact inclusions indicate that the rubies are unheated. Faraone was one of the oldest jewelers in Italy, serving as court jeweler to the Royal household and to luminaries such as Maria Callas. The Settepasse family, Faraone's owners, joined forces with Tiffany in 1960 to manage Tiffany's European expansion. The companies jointly owned two boutiques in Milan and Florence. The earrings are signed by both Faraone and Tiffany, are marked for 18K gold, and have English import marks for 1990.

• Origin: Italy, 1990
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: length, 15/16"; width, 1/2"
• Weight: 19.5 grams
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 1.0 carat

An elegant Belle Epoque 18K yellow gold negligee pendant necklace, the old mine cut diamond drops formed as pansies. Pendant necklaces of this type, called negligees (from the French word for "careless"), were so called because of their assymetry. The subtle pansy design is achieved by combining three larger diamonds at the top of each cluster to represent larger petals, and two smaller petals at the bottoms. The knife edge bars suspending the clusters keeps the focus on the stones and create wonderful movement. The old mine cut diamonds (J/K color; SI1 clarity) have excellent fire for antique stones. The clasp and the pendant are stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: pendant length, 1-5/8"; chain length, 17-3/8"
• Weight: 6.5 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.5 carats.

A lovely 14K gold pendant necklace featuring a colorfully enameled violet blossom centered with a seed pearl and suspending a freshwater pearl. The flower petals and leaves are enhanced with translucent enamels in shades of purple, green, yellow and burgundy. In Victorian flower symbology, the violet represented "modesty." The pendant is suspended from its original chain, marked 14K on the clasp. The pendant is unmarked, but tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: pendant, 3/8" x 15/16"; chain length, 16"
• Weight: 6.0 grams.

A fabulous pair of mid-century 18K yellow gold and platinum earclips by Cartier set with brilliant round cut diamonds. The gold surfaces are cast in a rough texture that contrasts beautifully with the bright diamonds set in platinum. The diamonds, as expected of Cartier, are extremely fine quality (E color/VVS2 clarity). French jewelry became more flamboyant in the 1960s, as wartime restrictions eased. Most importantly, jewels were designed for the "modern woman" who wanted to transition her look seamlessly from day to evening. When worn, these flame-like earrings cradle the entire earlobe and rise up gently along the back side of the lobe. Each earring bears French hallmarks and is signed "Cartier."

• Origin: France, 1960s
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1-1/4"
• Weight: 12.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.5 carats

An elegant pair of 18K gold earrings featuring large cultured mabe pearls surrounded by borders of brilliant round cut diamonds (E/F color; VVS2 clarity) and square cut blue sapphires of similar fine quality. The pearls have fine creamy body color with rose overtones and a high luster. Jewels by Spark were retailed by Neiman Marcus and other luxury purveyors. The original posts were removed for wear only with the omega clips, but could easily be replaced. The backs are marked "18" and are signed "Spark."

• Origin: America, ca 1980
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 13/16"
• Weight: 21.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.6 carats; sapphire, 2.0 carats

A very fine 18K gold watch pin depicting a mythological griffin grasping a pearl in its mouth. The back-swept wings are bordered with rose cut diamonds set in silver. The detailing for the feathers and scales is superb, and even the reverse is realistically engraved. The design is deeply three-dimensional. Mythological subjects were particularly popular in at the beginning of the Art Nouveau period. The reverse is stamped with an 18K hallmark. The back also retains the original watch hook, clasp and pinstem. A bail could easily be added for wear as a pendant.

• Origin: Europe, ca 1880
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/4" diameter
• Weight: 17.5 grams

An unusually large Art Nouveau enameled violet pin /pendant worked in opaque white and purple shades over 18K gold. The petals are arranged around an old mine cut diamond (I/J; SI1). In Victorian flower symbology, purple violets conveyed the sentiment "modesty" and white violets conveyed "innocence." Perhaps the colors chosen for this piece were intended to represent a mix of meanings. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp, as well as a bail so the flower can be worn as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: probably European, possibly American, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; the peta on the lower right has a tiny enamel nick visible only under 10X magnification
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 1-5/16"
• Weight: 8.7 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .25 carat

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K gold enameled honeymoon pin featuring a diamond-set blossom enameled in delicate shades of iridescent translucent rose, yellow and white enamel set against a gold crescent moon. Delicate floral pins of this sort were popular gifts for new brides. In Victorian symbology, flowers could represent honey and crescents, the moon. Thus, honey + moon = honeymoon. The back is marked "14K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 5/8"
• Weight: 3.0 grams

A delightful Retro period 14K gold charm or pendant depicting "Thursday's Child" by William Ruser. The charm is finely detailed. According to the poem, Thursday's Child has "far to go" so Ruser depicted the naked child walking along a natural freshwater pearl carrying a traveling sack of belongings. The use of freshwater pearl is a classic Ruser touch. The child's eyes are set with blue sapphires. The back is signed and is marked "14K."

Ruser, the formost Beverly Hills jewelry of his time, was a favorite of Loretta Young and Joan Crawford. He is best know for his depictions of dogs (particularly poodles) and waif-like children in various poses.

• Origin: America, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 1-5/16" x 1-5/8" (excluding bail)
• Weight: 15.8 grams

A wonderful, generously-sized Retro period 14K yellow gold charm or pendant depicting a spaniel. The dog is finely detailed and is offset with sparkling blue sapphire eyes. Ruser, the foremost Beverly Hills jeweler of his time, was a favorite of Loretta Young and Joan Crawford. His famous line of poodle jewels were inspired by Crawford's poodles. Other breeds of dogs are exceedingly rare. The back is marked "14K" and is signed "Ruser."

• Origin: America, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/4" wide; 1-3/4" long (excluding bail); 1/2" deep
• Weight: 19.9 grams

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K gold enameled flower pin with a full-blown blossom centering a seed pearl and a half-opened blossom. The petals are decorated in soft shades of ivory, green and rose iridescent translucent enamels. Delicate floral pins of this kind were popular gifts for new brides in the Victorian and Edwardian eras due to the sentimental meanings of various flowers in the Victorian flower language. The back is hallmarked by Whiteside & Blank.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent; all original; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-5/16" x 11/16"
• Weight: 3.4 grams.

A lovely 14K gold Art Nouveau pin in the form of a bouquet of violets by Krementz. Three flowers on long golden stems are accented with a pair of leaves decorated with iridescent translucent enamel. Each flower comprises five dark purple enameled petals surrounding a seed pearl. In the Victorian flower language, the violet represented modesty. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp, marked 14K and bearing Krementz's hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1920
• ConditionL excellent
• Dimensions: 1-13/16" x 7/8"
• Weight: 4.5 grams

A pretty vintage 14K yellow gold pin by Krementz featuring a spray of beautifully enameled bleeding hearts, each dangling a small seed pearl. The enameling on the blossoms has a matte effect that mimics the waxing texture of the flower in nature, while the leaves are in Krementz's more typical shaded translucent style. In Victorian flower language, bleeding hearts were used to represent "deepest love." Pins such as this with a delicate enameled flower against a geometric back represent are typical of Krementz's move Art Nouveau into Art Deco and finally Retro. The original clasp is stamped with Krementz' hallmark. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-3/16" diameter
• Weight: 7.0 grams

A stunning 18K gold "Double Cable" cuff bracelet with two stations set with round brilliant diamonds (G/VS1) and French cut rubies. This is a very rare model from Yurman. We have seen it only once before, set with emeralds. The back of each station is signed "D Yurman/18K" and the endcaps are marked "D Yurman 750."

• Origin: America, ca. 1990
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: width, 9/16"; width, 1/2" at stations, 12/32" along cables
• Weight: 39.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.08 carat; ruby, 1.1 carat.

A striking late Victorian 14K yellow gold crucifix set with sapphires, an old European cut diamond and seed pearls. The diamond is graded at I/SI2 and the sapphires are finely colored and show no indication of heat treatment. The gold surface is "bloomed" for a soft matte texture that enhances the gold color but is subdued enough for the religious purpose of the pendant. The bail is original and is stamped for Bippart, Griscom & Osborn, one of the finest Newark jewelers of the era.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 2-1/14" (excluding bail)
• Weight: 9.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .80 carat; diamond, .23 carat

A fine early French Art Nouveau orchid brooch, the flower petals carved from banded agate around old mine cut diamond stamens, all set atop an elegant gold stem set with rose cut diamonds. The flower is a single piece of agate, finished with a matte surface to suggest the texture of a real flower petals. The carver left streaks of a darker colored agate on the back to create the delicately-colored veining that shows through the petals. The petal at lower left is turned back on itself to enhance the realistic effect. The reverse is stamped with a "tete de Mercure" hallmark indicating 18K gold that was intended to be sold abroad. There is also an illegible master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880
• Condition: excellent; all original; a few tiny fleabites on one petal visible only with 10X magnification
• Dimensions: 2-5/8" x 1-1/4"Weight: 10.25 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .85 carat.

A lovely Art Nouveau pendant worked in gilt silver depicting a pair of hounds against a background of oak leaves and acorns. The quality of the casting and chasing is very nice. The reverse is marked "800".

• Origin: Europe, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-9/32" diameter
• WeightL 13.0 grams

A very rare Art Nouveau Mardi Gras ball favor jewel in 14K gold depicting Greek goddess. The exposed areas of gold have a soft "bloomed" finish typical of higher quality Art Nouveau jewels that constrasts beautifully with the translucent enamels. The back is stamped "14K" and is engraved "COMUS 1908."

The Mystick Crewe of Comus is the oldest and most exclusive of New Orleans' Mardi Gras organizations. The theme selected for the 1908 event was "Gods & Goddesses." Favors were bestowed on the ladies in attendance. Usually, these were inexpensive items, but in 1908, the "trinket" were these lovely gold pins.

• Origin: America, 1908
• Condition: excellent, no enamel loss
• Dimensions: 1" x 7/8"
• Weight: 5.5 grams.