Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1645)

A pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks with a classic 1960's brushed gold texture. The texture is worked in short sections oriented in random directions, giving the effect of leopard spots in racking light. The toggle backs are worked in a simple ribbed design. The connectors are signed "Cartier" and are also marked "Swiss Made/18K/750." The "Swiss Made" stamp is more often seen on watch cases and indicates that the cufflinks were made by one of Cartier's watchmakers, likely to match a watch dial.

Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 19/32" (15mm) x 19/32" (15mm). Weight: 13.4 grams.

A very nice 14K yellow gold man's wedding band decorated with a laurel wreath motif studded with bezel-set old European cut diamonds and round brilliant blue sapphires. The diamonds are I/SI2 quality and the sapphires have a rich deep blue color. All surfaces of the gold are fully decorated with hand-chased details. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp details, typical wear abrasions to sapphire facets consistent with age. Finger Size: 9-1/4. Dimensions: 1/4" wide. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .2 cts; sapphire, .4 cts.

A chic Victorian egg pendant of black onyx accented with 14K yellow gold Gothic-style strapwork set with natural seed pearls. The pearls, though small, have particularly nice luster. The simple decoration and strong color contrast makes this a very elegant piece to be worn as a single pendant or as a group of necklace charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1865. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" x 15/16".

A lovely carved coral cameo of a maiden in an elegant 14K yellow gold surround set with small pearls. The cameo is deeply carved and has nicely even color. The back retains the original folding bail, pinstem and clasp. The back is stamped "14K" and has the maker's mark for Erlich & Sinnock, a Newark jeweler.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 25/32" x 15/16" (excluding bail). Weight: 6.0 gr.

A delightful Imperial Austrian silver brooch set with three reverse-carved Essex crystals by the Imperial jeweler Georg Adam Scheid. The domed pin is finely engraved in a basket-weave motif and is pierced by three Essex crystals, each depicting a lap dog, perhaps a Pekingese. The dogs are well carved and colored, with tiny blue bows under their chins. The crystals never had a mother-of-pearl backing like those produced in England and France. Except in France, Essex crystals were not widely used in Continental European jewelry. The back retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp. The hinge is stamped with Imperial Austrian hallmarks for 800 silver and with Scheid’s hallmark. The brooch retains its patina, but could be polished if desired.

Origin: Austria, ca. 1880. Condition: all original, silver is excellent, some wear to the paint on the crystals. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 8.3 gr.

A very good Art Nouveau man's wedding ring worked in 14K yellow gold. The front of the shank is hand-chased in an ornate scrolling pattern that cradles three old European cut diamonds in bezel settings. The design is elegant, yet not too feminine. The diamonds are very good quality, graded in the setting as G/H color and VS1 clarity. The inside of the shank is engraved "Feb 1st 1918" and is marked for 14K gold.

Origin: America, 1918. Condition: excellent, minor wear at the back of the shank. Finger Size 9. Dimensions: 1/4" wide in the front, tapering to 3/32" at the back. Weight: 5.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .30 carat.

A lovely pair of classic Victorian earrings in the Etruscal Revival style featuring free-hanging drops of rich violetish-blue drops of lapis lazuli. The 15K yellow gold mountings are enhanced with twisted wire and bead decoration. The lapis is of the finest Afghan quality, with even color and only one tiny fleck of pyrite. The wires are marked "15 Ct".

Origin: England, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: length from top of wire, 1-3/4".

A colorful Venetian Etruscan fob charm worked in 18K yellow gold and set with six emerald cut amethysts. The gold surfaces are covered with ornate ropetwists, rosettes and beading. The shape—sort of an elongated barrel—is unusual and shows off the richly-colored amethysts to good advantage. The jump ring is marked 750 for "18K".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1" x 3/4". Weight: 13.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 14.1 cts.

A handsome pair of double-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks adorned with engine-turned engraving in a star pattern enclosed within opaque blue champleve enamel borders. The connectors are stamped with the mark for Strobell & Crane (Newark).

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: faces, 5/8" diameter. Weight: 8.1 gr.

A whimsical Retro 18K yellow gold, amazonite and ruby brooch in the form of a stork. The turquoise coloring of the amazonite against the red of the ruby eye is very attractive. The use of amazonite is unusual, but the color and texture are evocative of a bird's plumage. This piece could easily be updated to become a pendant instead of a pin. The reverse is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 1-1/16". Weight: 5.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amazonite, 4.93 cts; ruby, .05 ct.

An imposing Victorian butterfly brooch of exceptional quality and grand dimensions, the fore- and hindwings studded with rose cut diamonds set in silver-topped 18K gold and bordered with oval cabochon rubies set in gold. The thorax is formed of a round opal and the abdomen is a large squarish cabochon pink tourmaline. The design is completed with diamond antennae and emerald eyes. The opal has excellent fire with a good deal of orange and green in the flashes of light. The rubies outlining the wings have medium-light color and are well-matched to the large tourmaline forming the butterfly’s abdomen. The back of the brooch shows masterful à jour work with well-finished piercing to allow light through the stones. The back also retains the original gold pinstem and c-clasp that can be removed with a gold screw assembly. The brooch most likely originally had a comb attachment so the butterfly could be worn in the hair. The brooch is stamped with French gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1875. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 2” x 2-7/8”. Weight: 27.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight (by estimation and formula): diamond, 2.39 cts; ruby, 14.26 cts; tourmaline, 6.87 cts; opal, .97 cts.

A stunning enameled 14K yellow gold pendant/brooch and matching earrings by Krementz. The flowers and leaves are expertly worked in the iridescent translucent enamel characteristic of the best pieces from Newark. The violets are centered with small pearls. The pendant/brooch is stamped with Krementz' 14K mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1915
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: brooch, 1-7/16" x 1-7/16"; earrings, 1-3/8" long from top of wire x 3/4". Weight: pendant/brooch, 9.8 gr; earrings, 6.0 gr

An extremely fine Victorian tiger claw bracelet mounted in 20K gold filigree. Tiger claws were popular souvenirs of visits to India, especially after Queen Victoria took the title “Empress of India” in 1876. They were sometimes set into jewelry in England or America, but also in India. This bracelet is mounted in the traditional Indian style of ornate filigree work. The claws are finely matched in terms of color and size and are in excellent condition. Tiger claw bracelets are difficult to find, especially at this quality level. The clasp is stamped with an unidentified maker’s mark. Tested and guaranteed 20K.

Origin: India, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8” wide; 7-1/4” long. Weight: 29.6 gr.

NOTE: This item cannot be shipped outside the United States or to the state of California.

A lovely 18K yellow gold locket, the front cover enhanced with ornate engine-turned engraving in a sunburst pattern with laurel leaf borders. The front cover is centered with a blue sapphire cabochon with rich coloring. The locket’s back cover is more simply decorated with engine-turned stripes. Even the interior edges, which are hidden from view, are engraved in a foliate pattern. The locket is suspended from its original laurel leaf jump ring that matches the border of the front cover. The interior retains both of the original portrait frames. The overall style is typical of French or Russian jewelry at the end of the 19th century, but it is unmarked. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-3/16” diameter (excluding jump ring). Approximate Sapphire Weight: .24 cts. Weight: 10.3 gr.

A rare large 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant ("medaille d'amour") enclosed in a halo of bright red rubies. The medal has a rebus spelling out "Plus qu'hier, moins que demain" ("More than yesterday, less than tomorrow"), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of "Cyrano de Bergerac") in 1889. The word "plus" is symbolized by a plus sign set with five single-cut diamonds and the word "moins" is symbolized by a minus sign set with two rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed with "A. Augis", in one of the more ornate versions with a crepe de chine textured background enclosed in a scalloped frame set with brilliant round cut synthetic rubies. The fairly large size is perfect to be worn as a necklace, but could also be worn on a very chunky charm bracelet. The pendant is stamped with French 18K gold marks, and with Augis' signature and marker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, no engraving on reverse. Dimensions: 1-5/16" diameter (excluding bail). Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 ct; synthetic ruby, 3.08 cts. Weight: 9.9 gr.

A handsome pair of French 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces comprising white jasper chalcedony carved into quadrants and enhanced with rope-twist gold bindings. The faces are connected by chains to barbell backs. The jasper chalcedony has a very attractive translucent milky white color with a tinge of bluish-gray (the photographs seem to have a more pink tint). Each cufflink is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible maker's mark.

Origin: France. Dimensions: 9/16" x 9/16". Weight: 11.3 gr.

A classic pair of French 18K yellow gold cufflinks in a variation of the "mors de filet" or "snaffle" design originally created for Hermès by Gaetan de Percin. Each of the flip-up ends is pierced in a diamond-cut design. De Percin's design was very popular and served as the basis for a number of closely related designs. These cufflinks are stamped with French 18K marks, an unidentified goldsmith’s mark and the notation for "breveté", indicating that the design was patented.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: faces, 5/8 x 11/32". Weight: 12.7 gr.

A rare 18K yellow gold love token medallion by the Lyonnais jeweler best known for his “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” médailles d’amour. This medal, depicts a crowing rooster standing on land gazing out over the sea toward the rising sun while diamond-set stars are still in the sky. The text “Ni vous sans moi, ni moi sans vous” means “Neither you without me, nor me without you” and is taken from a telling of the legend of Tristan and Iseulde by the 12th century lyric poet Marie de France written while she was at the English court of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine.

Augis created this design at the outbreak of World War I in 1914. The rooster is a traditional symbol of the French republic, so the medal held a double meaning of patriotism (in the sense of “Neither France without you, nor you without France”) and inseparable love as soldiers went to war. Certainly, one can imagine a young soldier presenting this medal to his wife or girlfriend.

The pendant is signed “A Augis” and is stamped with his master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1914. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, never monogrammed. Dimensions: 13/16” diameter (excluding bail). Diamond Weight: 025 ct. Weight: 6.2 gr.