Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1645)

A nice Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold signet ring that appears never to have been engraved. The shoulders are enhanced with scrolling foliage leading up to the oval face. It’s very unusual to find a signet ring that was never engraved. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, very light wear to decorative elements at the shoulders
• Dimensions: face, 5/8” x 1/2"
• Finger Size: 8-1/2
• Weight: 9.3 grams

A very fine 19th century French 18K gold locket, the cover in a very three-dimensional design of overlapping geometric shaped enhanced with calibre-cut Persian turquoise, seed pearls and rose cut diamonds. The turquoise are all original, and a few are have taken on the darker greenish cast often found in Victorian-era turquoise. Additional scrollwork, beading and engraving completes the design. The original bail is set with pearls. The back cover opens to reveal a glass-enclosed compartment. The locket is stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1850
• Condition: excellent, a few small dings to the back cover
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-15/16” (2-5/16” including bail)
• Weight: 20.6 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat

A lovely late Victorian 18K gold locket enhanced with ornate pierced arabesques and pearl-studded laurel wreaths. The pearls have particularly nice color and luster. The cover opens to reveal a glass-enclosed compartment for a portrait or other keepsake. A small piece of cloth soaked in perfume could have been added behind the pierced cover to provide a bit of relief from the smelly Parisian streets of the 1800s. The original bail is also set with seed pearls. Stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880
• Condition: excellent; a small ding on the back cover (more visible from the inside of the locket than the outside
• Dimensions: 1-1/16” x 2” (2-3/8” including the bail)
• Weight: 15.2 grams

A very fine and moving 18K gold and enamel locket in loving memory of Francis Mary, Viscountess Forbes who died on Christmas Day, 1877. She married the Viscount Forbes, 26 years her senior when she was just 21 years old. She was predeceased by her husband, and though she never became a Countess, their son inherited the title Earl of Granard. The locket was likely made for her granddaughter-in-law, Beatrice Mills Forbes, an American heiress who was Viscountess Forbes at the time of Francis Mary’s death. Lady Forbes led a rather fascinating life, as Queen Victoria’s confidante and one of her longest-serving Women of the Bedchamber (1837-1874). Even in her later years, she remained an Extra Woman and was called to Court for special occasions.

The front of the locket is beautifully worked with a black enameled cypher surmounted by an Earl’s coronet against a bloomed gold finish. The back is similarly decorated with an engraved cypher and coronet. The interior features an area for a portrait on one side, and a glass compartment enclosing a twisted lock of Francis Mary’s hair on the other. The frame surrounding the hair is engraved “Francis Mary Viscountess Forbes/Whom the Lord loveth He chasteneth/b. 21st Oct. 1811/d. Christmas day 1877.”

• Origin: England, 1877
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, dings, etc.
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-5/8” (2-1/4” with bail)
• Weight: 26.2 grams.

A nice pair of vintage 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the flip-up stirrup style popularized by Cartier in the late 1940s. The circular ends are enhanced with engraved decoration. One end of each cufflink folds for ease in putting them through a cuffhole. The ends of the connectors are set with cabochon rubies. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: probably American, ca. 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 5/8" diameter
• Weight: 13.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .6 carat.

A wonderful vintage 14K yellow gold charm featuring a gem-set heart and key. The symbols are an acrostic puzzle for "Key to my heart." The heart is bordered with rubies and centered with seed pearls. The head of the key is set with a ruby, a sapphire, and an emerald. The background is enhanced with a satin finish and the disc's edges have a rope border. The back is marked for 14K gold.

• IrugubL America, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" diameter
• Weight: 16.8 grams
• Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .75 ct; sapphire, .05 ct; emerald, .05 ct.

An outstanding 18K gold pendant set with an amazing enameled alpine scene by Carlo Poluzzi (1899-1978), the greatest Swiss enamellist of the the 20th century. Poluzzi sometimes used the very difficult technique of applying translucent enamel over an engraved gold plate to produce brilliant sunrise or set effects as seen in the left side of the sky in this example. This required multiple coats of different colored enamels which increased the likelihood of unwanted cracks during the multiple firings. Poluzzi was perhaps the only enamellist capable of this technique in the 20th century, and indeed, the scene is signed at the lower left. Of course, this example is also signed at the lower left. In the 1920s, Poluzzi (still in his low 20s) became the master of Emaux de Genève, the provider of the highest quality enameled dials and cases for luxury horlogers such as Vacheron & Constantin, Patek Philippe, Rolex and Gubelin. This plaque is set as a pendant by the Gubelin. The Holbein-style setting features square cut rubies and emeralds amid swirling gold foliage. The gemstones are of very fine quality with intense, saturated coloring and excellent clarity. The reverse is stamped with Gubelin’s hallmark and the Swiss gold mark for 18K.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” x 1-7/16”
• Weight: 26.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .8 carat; emerald, .47 carat

Swiss Silver Niello & Gilt Silver Watch Chain An excellent late Victorian silver watch chain with striped niello decoration on the double bar links, alternating with silver gilt curb links. The chain is finished at one end with a dog clip and at the other with a large niello bolt. The chain is stamped with the Swiss mark for 800 silver used 1882-1934.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, niello intact
• Length: 16-1/4”
• Weight: 15.2 grams

A nice late Victorian silver watch chain with striped niello decoration on alternating links. The chain is finished at one end with a dog clip and at the other with a bamboo-shaped t-bar. The chain is stamped with the Swiss mark for 875 silver used 1882-1934.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, niello intact
• Length: 17-1/2”
• Weight: 21.0 grams

A large pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement.These earrings have particularly intense jewel tones, particularly greens and purples. The earrings are marked with Stern's hallmark and also "750" for 18K gold. The clips are original, but posts could be added without affecting the original clips.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• 15/16" diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 11.02 carats
• Weight: 9.3 grams.

A handsome pair of double-faced cufflinks, the platinum faces engraved in a basketweave pattern bordered with a ring of white champleve enamel. Each face is centered with a 10-point diamond (J color/SI2 clarity) in a mix of old European and modern brilliant cuts. The faces are joined with arched gold connectors. The connectors are stamped for 18K and the platinum parts are tested and guaranteed platinum.

• Origin: likely Switzerland, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 5/8” diameter
• Weight: 14.6 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .40 carat

A high-quality 18K gold Etruscan-style Italian charm/pendant set with turquoise cabochons and concealing a hidden compartment in the bottom. The exposed gold surfaces are decorated with twisted wirework and beading, and the top shoulder has an unusual “horn” decoration that we’ve never seen before. Etruscan charms with compartments are very rare. The jump ring is marked “750” for 18K and the charm is tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/4 wide x 1-1/2 high (excluding jump ring)>/li>
• Weight: 14.6 grams

An outstanding lantern-shaped Etruscan-style 18K gold charm/pendant featuring coral cabochons. The gold surfaces are worked with intricate beading and twisted wirework. The decorative gold work is among the best we’ve seen on this type of charm. The coral has pure orange-red color and nice polish. The jump ring is stamped “750” for 18K gold, and the charm is tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” high (excluding jump ring); 1-1/4” wide
• Weight: 19.9 grams

An unusual 18K gold Etruscan-style Italian charm/pendant featuring four citrines on the sides, a large sugarloaf cabochon carnelian at the bottom, and an fluted chalcedony bead at the top. The gold surfaces have a brushed finish accented with twisted wirework appliques. The color combinations of the gemstones is particularly appealing. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” high; 3/4” wide
• Weight: 15.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 1.5 carats; carnelian, 7.4 carats

A lovely silver and gold necklace with pendant in the shape of two conjoined hearts, one with the word “Mizpah” and the other with the verse “The Lord watch between thee and me when we are absent one from another.” “Mizpah” stems from the Hebrew word for “watchtower,” and was used in jewelry to symbolize protection for loved ones during an extended absence. In an era of months-long travel and extended warfare, the Mizpah became a tangible reminder of being loved and protected from afar. The hears are further adorned with appliqued gold flowers and foliage. “Mizpah” is most frequently seen alone, without any verse or other sentimental decoration. Originally a brooch, the hearts now hang from an old silver chain. The reverse bears hallmarks for Chester, England and an unidentified maker’s mark “SB.”

• Origin: England, ca 1890 (the date mark is partially obscured, but appears to be 1891
• Condition: good, converted from a brooch, some dings on the heart engraved with the verse
• Dimensions: pendant, 7/8” x 1-3/8”; necklace length, 19-3/8”
• Weight: 9.6 grams

An elegant Art Nouveau bracelet comprising foliate shaped links set with round amethysts alternating with fleur-de-lis shaped links. The amethysts have the deep violet coloring typical of the best quality Siberian material. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca 1895
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-1/2” long
• Weight: 19.4 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 5.22 carats

A small fob seal featuring an amethyst tablet set in a fluted closed-back setting surmounted with ornate scrollwork. The amethyst tablet bears the monogram “RB” and a heart-shaped lock and a key. The lock and key are rebus images carrying the message “Key to my heart.” This fob is perfectly sized to wear alone as a pendant or on a heavy chain or bracelet as one of multiple charms. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

• Origin: England, ca 1830
• Condition: very good
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1-1/8"
Weight: 7.5 grams

A very handsome and heavy pair of double-sided 18K gold cufflinks, the oval faces decorated with stripes of engine-turned engraving and translucent royal blue guilloche enamel. The faces are joined by chains. Both the faces and the individual chain links are fully marked for Sheffield, 1905 and have an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: Sheffield, England, 1905
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions; faces, 3/4” x 9/16”
• Weight: 11.0 grams

A colorful 18K gold pendant from H Stern’s “Rainbow Collection,” featuring rectangular garnet, topaz, citrine, peridot, green tourmaline, aquamarine, and amethyst to represent the color spectrum of visible light. The stones are contained within a simple gold border. The reverse is stamped with Stern’s star mark. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1990
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1” long including bail
• Weight: 1.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.0 carat

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by Haroldo Burle Marx set with intricately carved jelly tourmalines in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of stones fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The tourmalines have greenish blueish overtones. The elongated shape of the stones, mirrored by the shape of the settings looks very good on the ear. The gold surfaces are worked in both the stippled and brushed textures often seen in Burle Marx jewels. Each earring is stamped with Burle Marx’ complete markings. Posts could be easily added to compliment the omega clips.

Burle Marx worked in Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. The Brazilian government commissioned him to make state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Japan’s Empress Nagako, Iran’s Empress Farah Diba, Denmark’s Queen Margarethe, India’s Indira Gandhi, and many others. Among Hollywood royalty, he was a favorite of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 3/4”
• Weight: 16.8 grams,

A pretty late Georgian example of a Halley’s Comet pin worked in 14K (perhaps 15K) yellow gold and featuring a light blue paste stone to represent the comet’s nucleus. The paste is set in an elegant buttercup-type setting accented with an engraved gallery. Blue paste is less common than other colors, and makes a very nice presentation. The comet’s tail depicted in the engraved and voluted gold setting.

In 1705, Edmond Halley correctly predicted the comet’s return in 1758. When it returned again in 1835 (and in 1910), jewelers were ready with fashionable pins to celebrate the comet’s passage.

• Origin: England, ca 1835
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” long
• Weight: 2.9 grams

This classic late Victorian bangle bracelet is set with a row of gorgeous opal cabochons in graduated sizes enhanced with old European cut and single cut diamonds. The opals have superb play of color evenly spread across the stones’ surfaces. Primary colors are blues and greens with shots of orange and red. The interior of the bracelet has a jeweler’s inventory number, but no maker’s mark. It is presented in a fitted box that appears to be original. The interior of the box bears the name Wm Mossman, Jeweller & Goldsmith, 135 Princes St (Edinburgh, Scotland). The clasp is stamped with French import marks. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

• Origin: Scotland, ca. 1900
• Condition: mint
• Dimensions: 7/16” wide at front; 6-1/8” circumference
• Weight: 17.3 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: opal, 7.36 carats; diamond, .37 carat

A very fine French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold festoon necklace comprising three gold plaques exquisitely engraved in a pattern of roses and their foliage. The plaques are curved to create a "festoon" look, and are suspended from a gold chain set with natural seed pearls. The backs of the plaques are lightly engraved with a reverse image of the roses—a hidden luxury that speaks to the quality of the piece. Each plaque also includes stems with pronounced thorns, perhaps as a reminder of the selflessness of love. Victorian floriography adoped red roses to represent love from the myth of Aphrodite and Adonis. As she raced to the side of her fallen mortal lover, Aphrodite pricked her toe on the thorn of a white rose and her blood forever stained the flower red. The necklace is stamped with French 18K gold marks, and with an illegible maker's mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1895
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: necklace length, 16-3/4"; central plaque, 1-7/8" wide, 1-1/4" high
• Weight: 21.9 grams

An impressive 18K yellow gold hinged bangle, the front set with a cabochon emerald surrounded by old mine cut and rose cut diamonds arranged in a floral motif. The larger diamonds are in buttercup settings that add more depth to the design. The emerald has good color with very light treatment and is probably of Brazilian origin. The back side of the bracelet is pierced to retain a feeling of lightness. The hinged opening and oval shape makes the bracelet comfortable to wear. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks and an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: interior circumference, 6-11/16”; width, 1-3/16” at front tapering to 3/8” at back
• Weight: 30.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: emerald, 2.15 carats; diamond, 1.3 carats

An elegant bracelet composed of open links ornately decorated in a pattern of acanthus leaves alternating with blue sapphire oval cabochons. The sapphires do not show indication of heat treatment. Each link is slightly curved, so the bracelet lies nicely on the wrist. The clasp is masterfully constructed to be invisible once closed. Like most Portuguese gold jewelry of the era, it’s quite heavy for its size. The bracelet is stamped with 19.2K gold marks used in the city of Oporto, 1887-1937.

• Origin: Portugal, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimeions: 1/2" wide; 7-3/4” long
• Weight: 23.2 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 3.36 carats

An elegant heavy gold bracelet comprised of linked chains decorated with three-leaf clovers. In Victorian flower symbology, clover leaves, regardless of their number signified good luck, but they also held the meaning “think of me.” Kauffer was the primary jeweler of the Ecole de Nancy, France’s most important group of Art Nouveau artisans. He exhibited at the Louvre during his lifetime. Unlike the more florid Art Nouveau designs by Parisian jewelers, Kauffer’s designs tended to be more linear and graphic. The bracelet’s clasp is stamped with the 18K gold marks used outside Paris until 1919, with Kauffer’s maker’s mark, and also with Kauffer’s signature.

• Origin: France, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-1/2” long.
• Weight: 32.7 grams.

A superb Edwardian ring featuring a 1.89 carat antique cushion sapphire asymmetrically flanked by a pair of old European cut diamonds (.40 and .35 carats, both I color and one with VS1 clarity and the other with SI2 clarity, in buttercup settings. The design is further enhanced with scrolls set with rose cut diamonds. As is typical of the period, the gold ring is topped with platinum to highlight the color of the stones. The sapphire has beautiful texture and color that reads blue across the room. The stone shows no indication of heat treatment and is characteristic of the best sapphire from Sri Lanka. The shank is stamped with French import marks for 18K gold and platinum.

• Origin: French import marks, but likely American, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide
• Finger Size: 5-3/4” (easily sizeable)
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.86 ct; diamond, .89 ct
• Weight: 5.4 grams

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by Haroldo Burle Marx set with intricately carved jelly opals in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of stones fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The moonstones have bluish overtones with broad flashes of pinkish-orange. The elongated shape of the stones, mirrored by the shape of the settings looks very good on the ear. The gold surfaces are worked in both the stippled and brushed textures often seen in Burle Marx jewels. Each earring is stamped with Burle Marx’ complete markings.

Burle Marx worked in Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. The Brazilian government commissioned him to make state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Japan’s Empress Nagako, Iran’s Empress Farah Diba, Denmark’s Queen Margarethe, India’s Indira Gandhi, and many others. Among Hollywood royalty, he was a favorite of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1” x 5/8”
• Weight: 15.8 grams

A colorful butterfly, it’s old mine cut diamond and sapphire body sporting wings studded with rubies, rose cut diamonds and emeralds, stands atop a diamond-encrusted twig in this gorgeous late Victorian jewel. Victorian butterfly jewels usually portray the insect with its wings spread in a rather rigid fashion. This pose is far more naturalistically attractive. The stones together weigh close to 3 carats, and all have excellent color. The piece appears to have been converted from a brooch into a pendant with the addition of a hidden bail at the back. Tested and guaranteed 18K. The contemporary chain is stamped for 18K.

• Origin: probably France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-1/4”; chain length, 18”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.20 cts; sapphire, .38 ct; ruby, .67 ct; emerald, .63 ct
• Weight: 9.3 grams.

A chunky French tank bracelet worked in rose and yellow gold. The 1937 World’s Fair gave rise to a fashion for “tank jewelry,” so called for its perceived resemblance to the treads of armored tanks. This bracelet features angular ridges alternating with rounded elements that creates a woven visual effect. The angular segments are reeded, and the center reed of each is stippled for textural interest and is worked in bright yellow gold to contrast with the rose tint of the rest of the bracelet. The tongue of the clasp is marked with French 18K marks and an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1940
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 7-1/2”
• Weight: 56.0 grams
• Condition: excellent, no dings

A finely crafted late Art Nouveau 18K gold ring in the form of a lion’s head clasping an old European cut diamond in its jaws. The engraving is very well done and displays great detail that extends halfway around the shank. The diamond is graded as H/VS1. The interior of the shank is engraved “P.R. 10 Avril 1924.” The ring is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

• France, 1924
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16” wide at front, tapering to 3/16” at back
• Finger Size: 10-12
• Weight: 13.0 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .10 carat

A classically elegant six-piece dress set worked in abalone mother-of-pearl, 14K yellow gold, platinum, and seed pearls. The cufflinks are double sided, with oval abalone plaques surrounded by engine-turned platinum borders. Each face is centered with a small seed pearl. The abalone has very fine luster with a nice play of green, rose, and a little orange flashes when caught in direct light. The four matching shirt studs have round faces. Each piece is stamped with Larter's hallmark. The set is sold in an old, though not original, leather-covered dress set box.

• Origin: America, ca. 1915
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: cufflinks, 3/4" x 1/2"; studs, 1/2" diameter.
• Weight: 15.7 grams.

A handsome gentleman’s ring, the front in the form of a horseshoe encircling an onyx cameo carved to depict a steeplechase scene of a jockey and horse leaping over a fence. Interestingly, the carver chose not to polish the black onyx background, perhaps to lend a more masculine feel to the design. The shank is finished in a reeded pattern. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: probably, France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" wide tapering to 3/16” at the back
• Finger Size: 10
• Weight: 6.2 grams.

A lovely 18K gold locket, the front cover bezel-set with rhodolite garnets. The garnets have very fine color with bright shots of violet. The gold surface is stippled. The back cover is ornately engraved in a checkerboard pattern. The interior has a hinged glass cover. The locket is deep enough that it was likely intended to contain both a portrait and a keepsake of some sort. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 1-1/8” (excluding the jump ring)
• Total Gemstone Weight: 3.71 carats
• Weight: 6.6 grams

An intricately designed 14K yellow gold chain comprised of a double row of reeded oval links enhanced at regular intervals with engraved acanthus leaf plaques. The chain is from the late Georgian or early Victorian period, and is completely handmade. The clasp is a large bolt, reeded to match the links. The individual links are open enough that the chain could be used to hang charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1845
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 20-1/2" long; 7/16" wide
• Weight: 28.1 grams

An elegant large-scale 18K gold hinged bangle bracelet with repousse floral decoration by Charles Armsheimer & Son. The design is so expertly worked that the hinge is nearly invisible when the bracelet is being worn. Armsheimer’s workshop was located on Maiden Lane, the heart of New York’s jewelry industry in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The tongue of the clasp is stamped “18K” and also has the maker’s mark for Charles Armsheimer & Son.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, no dings or dents
• Dimensions: width, 3/8”; inner circumference 6-7/8”
• Weight: 24.1 grams