Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1645)

A wonderful Victorian 18K gold and jet watch chain that has been converted to a bracelet. The bracelet comprises variously-shaped baton and spherical beads. The original carved spherical watch fob and the crossbar dangle freely from the bracelet. The watch fob is carved in a stylized foliate pattern against a matte background. The spring ring is stamped "14K"; other elements are tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Era: ca. 1890
• Length: 7 3/8" (easily extended, if needed, with additional gold links).
• Condition: very good; one of the long beads has a 1/8" flake at one end and another long bead has a 1/16" flake at one end, but neither are easily visible without very close inspection.

A fine pair of vintage 18K gold flower-form earclips accented with diamonds and sapphires. The undulating petals are deeply cupped to create a realistic three-dimensional feel. Each earring is centered by a round brilliant-cut diamond surrounded by oval sapphires. The diamonds are graded as G/VVS2. The sapphires have fine pure blue coloring with excellent saturation. There are no marks, but there are inventory numbers. That, combined with the excellent workmanship and high quality stones, suggest the earrings are by a significant maker. The backs retain the original clips, but the posts have been removed. New posts can be added easily. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• ORIGIN America, ca 1980
• DIAMETER 1 1/8"
• WEIGHT 27.2 grams
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT diamond, .30 carat; sapphire, 4.90 carats
• CONDITION excellent; posts removed

A fine pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold tassel earrings. The foxtail chains are suspended from surmounts enhanced with foliate engraving, black taille d'epargne enameled borders and Etruscan ropetwist "ram's horns". The foxtail chains terminate in small gold balls. The earrings are a bit longer than most tassels and have a lot of movement when being worn. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• ORIGIN America, ca 1880
• LENGTH 2 3/8" from tops of wires
• WEIGHT 12.3 grams
• CONDITION excellent; new 14K wires

A striking Modernist take on a traditional 18K gold floral brooch. The stark thorn-like arrangement, enhanced with Akoya pearls, has an almost brutalist style. The gold surfaces are stippled to create a matte texture that contrasts with the polished gold of the small ribbon at the base. The pearls are nice quality with ivory body color. The brooch looks equally stylish worn as a pendant. The back is stamped "18K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1960
• DIMENSIONS 2 3/16" x 1 1/2"
• WEIGHT 10.2 grams
• CONDITION excellent

An outstanding Retro 18K gold mesh buckle bracelet generously set with diamonds and rubies. The bracelet is constructed with alternating bands of rose and yellow gold, creating a subtle striped pattern. The buckle is topped with platinum and is set with old European cut diamonds around the frame and calibre-cut synthetic rubies (typical of the period) on the prong. The tip of the bracelet strap is channel-set with synthetic rubies. The diamonds are H/I color and VS1 clarity. The mesh has a series of six small "belt holes" that allow the bracelet to be sized appropriately in 1/4-inch increments anywhere from 6 to 7 1/4 inches. The buckle is further secured with a safety catch. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1935
• DIMENSIONS: overall length, 8 3/4"; strap width, 7/8"; buckle width, 1 5/16"
• WEIGHT 80.3 grams.
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: diamond, 1.18 carats; ruby, 2.16 carats
• CONDITION excellent

A nice bracelet comprising twelve Victorian era 14K and 10K gold slides. The slides are in various styles, but are all original to the Victorian period. Slide bracelets enjoyed a moment of popularity in the 1930s when older Victorian pieces were dismantled and converted into a new style of charm bracelets. The first, tenth, eleventh and twelfth slides (L to R in the first photo) are 10K. The others are 14K. The diamonds, opals, turquoise and pearls are natural; the sapphires and rubies are glass. The two opals, in particular, are very nice quality. The slides are strung on a 14K gold double chain with 14K gold spacer beads and a 14K clasp. Tested and guaranteed metal content.

• ORIGIN America, ca 1860-1900
• DIMENSIONS 7 3/4" long
• WEIGHT 16.5 grams
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: diamond, .03 carat; opal, .6 carat
• CONDITION excellent, a few light pinpoint dings on the largest slide

A pair of Modernist 14K gold and sapphire cufflinks in the brutalist style. The gold surfaces are etched in a Florentine finish that contrasts nicely with the rich blue sapphires. The toggles are marked "14K".

• ORIGIN America, ca 1970
• DIMENSIONS 1 1/8" x 3/8"
• WEIGHT 14.8 grams
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: sapphire, .84 carat
• CONDITION excellent

An Edwardian 14K yellow and rose gold bracelet featuring three Essex crystals of flying ducks set between depicting cattails. The cattail leaves are worked in gold that is very slightly tinted green, and the brown part of the cattail is rose gold. Reverse-carved intaglios became popular in the Victorian era, especially to depict sporting and hunting themes. They remained popular through the early part of the 20th century. The crystal depict three different species, including a mallard. Each duck is shown flying over water. The carving and painting are nicely done. The back is marked “14K”.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1920
• CONDITION very good, all original, the crystals have faint moisture marks around the edges (much less visible than in the photos)
• DIMENSIONS 7-5/8” long; 9/16” wide
• WEIGHT 20.5 grams

An attractive 800 silver and Baltic amber ring, the oval cabochon amber in a silver setting reminiscent of Jensen’s designs from the 1930s. The amber is natural has not been quench-crackled. The back of the shank is signed with an unidentified maker’s mark and has Polish hallmarks for 800 silver.

• ORIGIN Poland, ca. 1970
• CONDITION excellent; silver has been lightly cleaned to retain patina
• FINGER SIZE 7-1/4
• DIMENSIONS crown, 1” x 3/4"
• WEIGHT 7.0 grams

A pin featuring three horses, each sporting a red enamel bridle by the New York maker Sloan & Company. The horses are finely detailed. The clasp is stamped with Sloan's 14K mark.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1920.
• DIMENSIONS 1 3/4" x 9/16".
• WEIGHT 5.4 grams.
• CONDITION excellent; no enamel damage; sharp detail.

A wonderful Victorian 14K gold comet pin worked in the Etruscan Revival style. The pin is decorated with ornate granulated rosettes and ropetwist motifs surrounding a single square Persian turquoise cabochon set at the comet's nucleus. The gold surfaces are bloomed for a soft sheen. Tested and guaranteed 14K.The pin was likely produced to commemorate the appearance of Halley's Comet in 1835.

• Origin: America, ca. 1835.
• Dimensions: 2 1/8" long.
• Weight: 4.4 grams.
• Condition: excellent, all original, no dings or missing decorative elements.

A glamorous pair of drop earrings in a formal Georgian style set with rose cut diamonds and richly colored pear-shaped rhodolite garnets. The gems are set in silver-topped 12K gold to heighten the color of the diamonds, in the manner of period Georgian jewels. The main body of the earring is hinged and swings freeely from the surmounts. The earrings are completed with a diamond-set fringe at the bottom edge. The rose cut diamonds have nice sparkle that nicely complements the rich purple color of the garnets. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold.

• Dimensions: 2 3/8" long from top of earwire.
• Weight: 8.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .62 carat; rhodolite garnet, 1.4 carats.

A fine Victorian 14K gold mesh and onyx cameo bracelet. The center cameo depicts a classical youth flanked by four maidens, all in Greek or Roman attire. The cameos are nicely carved with good detail. The clasp is concealed by the male cameo. A heavy gold mesh makes up the remainder of the bracelet. The gold has a slight rose tint that contrasts nicely with the black and white of the cameos. The tongue of the clasp is stamped "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 7 5/8" long; 13/16" wide.
• Weight: 34.5 grams.
• Condition: excellent; no damage to cameos; all original except the safety chain added at a later date (easily removed).

A substantial Retro 18K rose gold bow pin set with diamonds and natural rubies. The center knot features an old mine cut diamond flanked by small rose-cut diamonds set in white gold that extend out across the loops of the bow. Two rows of natural rubies accent the design. The rubies have fine red coloring without the hint of purple often seen. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Circa 1940.
• Dimensions: 2 3/8" x 1 1/2".
• Weight: 17.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .30 carat; ruby, 1.09 carats.
• Condition: excellent, all original.

A handsome pair of double-sided cufflinks featuring oval carnelian cabochons simply set in 14K yellow gold mountings. The carnelians have exceptionally rich color and translucency, creating a particularly striking look. Each cufflink is stamped "585" for 14K and also with an unidentified European maker's mark "FA".

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1940.
• Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 11/16".
• Weight: 9.5 grams.
• Condition: excellent.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in a brushed finish with prong-set sapphires. The design of a cut-out triangle superimposed over a solid triangle creates a layered effect that lends a nice feeling of depth to the cufflinks. The toggle backs are marked "14K".

li>Origin: America, ca. 1950.
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4" x 3/4".
• Weight: 13.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .15 carat.
• Condition: excellent, one toggle has a minute ding on the edge.

A very rare pair of 14K yellow gold, diamond and lapis lazuli cufflinks designed by Erté in the "La Dentelle-State I" pattern. The faces of the cufflinks are shaped as stylized birds, with lapis cabochons for eyes. The exposed gold surfaces are engraved and cast in an intricate pattern of geometric bars and swirls to suggest feathers. Short bands of bead-set single-cut diamonds finish the design.

Known throughout his career as a costume designer and illustrator, Erté began designing jewelry in 1979. At the time of his death in 1990, he had produced just over 300 different designs, most of them made in rather small limited editions. Only 100 examples of the "La Dentelle-State I" cufflinks were made. The backs are signed "Erté", "CFA 14K", and "11/100".

• Origin: America, ca. 1980.
• Dimensions: 2 1/8" x 7/8".
• Weight: 20 Condition: excellent. Size: 2-1/8" x 7/8". Weight: 20.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: lapis, 4.8 carats; diamond, .42 carat.

A fine pair of mid-century modern 14K yellow gold and diamond cufflinks by Larter. The heavy gold faces are decorated with parallel lines and the canted edges are bead-set with brilliant round-cut diamonds. The diamonds are of very good quality, estimated at I color, VS clarity. The stones are set in white gold enhanced with milgrain borders. The backs are completed with the older type of toggle mounting. The backs are stamped with Larter’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1950.

Dimensions: faces, 5/8" x 1/2".

Weight: 13.5 grams.

Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 carat.

Condition: excellent; all original.

A classic pair of double-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces enhanced with engine-turned engraving and opaque black champleve enamel borders. The borders are further accented with a gold strapwork motif. The connectors are marked with unidentified American hallmarks, “HB” and “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage.
• Dimensions: 19/32” diameter.
• Weight: 9.2 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst-textured background paired with the simple beveled border used in the 1950s. The smaller size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1950.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 21/32” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .06 carat.

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold, ruby and enamel love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst textured background paired with a bright-cut border in a style introduced in 1969. It is signed “A.A.” The medium size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1970.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 11/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .04 carat.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst-textured background paired with the simple beveled border used in the 1950s. The smaller size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1950.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 21/32” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .06 carat.

An elegant French 18K yellow gold 22" chain enhanced with randomly-spaced small semi-baroque pearls set at irregular lengths and finished with a bulldog swivel clip perfect for hanging interchangeable charms or pendants (as shown for illustration purposes). The pendant is being sold separately. It is item number 1405532 in our catalog. Stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900.
• Length: 22".
• Weight: 12.7 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold, ruby and enamel love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. The remainder of the text is highlighted in black enamel. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst textured background paired with a bright-cut border in a style introduced in 1969. It is signed “A.A.” The medium size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1975.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .04 carat.

A wonderful Victorian 14K gold fancy watch chain featuring large links that we’d now call “Gucci links” in rose gold, alternating with smaller connector links in a slightly more yellow shade. Each of the large links is pierced with a star motif and the edges are enhanced with a fluted and ribbed pattern. The smaller links are chased in a floral pattern. The chain is finished with a ring and t-bar closure. The chain has a very substantial, “chunky” appearance, but is of moderate weight and comfortable for regular wear. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1880.
• Dimensions: large link width, 13/32”; overall length, 18”.
• Weight: 38.4 grams.

A classically elegant pair of 18K yellow gold and blue sapphire cufflinks in a highly-functional “wrap-around” style. The cufflinks comprise a doubled length of Russian braid chain that passes through the cuff hole and attaches on the other side to the solid clasp. The chains are comfortable to wear, flexing easily, but staying firmly closed from the tension of the cuff fabric. The clasps are set at either end with a rich blue sapphire cabochon. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks, the master goldsmith’s mark and a serial number, and is signed “Boucheron.”

• Origin: France, ca. 1950.
• Dimensions: clasp length 15/16”; chain diameter, 3mm.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.68 carats.
• Weight: 14.6 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A striking pair of David-Andersen sterling silver double-sided cufflinks, the faces decorated with guilloche enamel in a translucent deep red shade. The underlying engine-turned engraving is in a sunburst pattern. The hinged connectors are marked with appropriate sterling silver hallmarks and the maker’s mark used from 1925.

• Origin: Norway, ca. 1930.
• Face Dimensions: 31/32” x 15/16”.
• Weight: 11.6 grams.
• Condition: excellent; tiny age-appropriate surface wear visible under 10x magnification.

A striking pair of double-sided cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold. Each hexagonal face is decorated with a blue and white champlevé enamel pattern that highlights its “quilted” texture. Each face is centered with a triangular sapphire cabochon bezel-set in platinum. The sapphires have bright color that beautifully accents the enamel. The faces are connected by chains. Each cufflink is marked “18Ct” and has another unidentified mark. They are well-traveled, also bearing old London import marks and French import marks.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1920.
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16” x 9/16”.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.24 carats.
• Weight: 6.4 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no enamel damage.

A handsome pair of Edwardian cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold. The round faces are set with concave mother-of-pearl plaques, each centering a bezel-set pink sapphire cabochon. The color contrast is quite attractive. The connectors are removable for ease in putting on the cufflinks. The cufflinks have nice weight and are comfortable to wear. Each is marked “18K” and also bears French import marks.

• Origin: possibly England or America, ca. 1910.
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16” diameter.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.12 carat.
• Weight: 8.7 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no dings or chips.

A very finely-made Victorian memorial ring worked in 18K yellow gold and plaited hair. The ring is designed as belt, ornately decorated with open navette- and trefoil-shaped reserves, each showing the loved one’s hair. The gold surfaces are nicely engraved, and the whole is finished off with an ornate buckle centered with a escutcheon engraved with the initials “MW”. In Victorian symbology, the belt represented not only eternal love, but also strength and protection. A ring such as this, tightly surrounding the finger, would be an ever-present reminder. Buckle rings, even those with hair panels, were not always for mourning, but rather sentimental pieces. Since the band is not engraved with a name or death date in the interior, it’s quite likely that this ring was intended as a romantic symbol. The interior of the band is stamped with 18K gold marks for Chester in the year 1883. Rings of this type are much more common in lower purity gold such as 9K or 12K.

• Origin: Chester, England, 1883.
• Dimensions: band, 8/32” wide; buckle, 10/32” wide.
• Finger Size: 9-1/2.
• Weight: 3.1 grams.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; hair is perfect.

A dainty Victorian pendant or bracelet charm designed as a spray of flowers against a woven background. The flowers are worked in rose and green gold, while the background is in yellow gold. A pendant of this size could easily be worn on a charm bracelet but would look even lovelier on a simple gold chain. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold.

• Origin: England, ca. 1850.
• Dimensions: 11/16” corner-to-corner.
• Weight: 2.1 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A nice 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm set with oval brilliant cut citrines. The stones have intense orangey-yellow color and the gold surfaces are heavily decorated with applied wire-work and rosettes. Marked “750” for 18K gold.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955.
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 1-1/4” (excluding bail).
• Weight: 10.9 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 9.76 carats.
• Condition: excellent; no dings; all original.

An unusually large 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example maintains the “crêpe de chine” textured background, but pairs it with a border of calibre cut synthetic rubies, in turn enclosed within a bright-cut gold border. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1960.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring); the size of a half-dollar.
• Weight: 9.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 carat; ruby, 4.45 carats.

An elegant pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold tassel earrings, the tops enhanced with bands of black taille d'epargne enamel and small natural pearls. The foxtail chains terminate in small balls. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn. Each is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: excellent; new 18K wires.
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" long from tops of wires.
• Weight: 9.3 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold and ruby heart-shaped love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. The remainder of the text is designed in a softly rounded font introduced in 1975. The size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark. It is also signed "Augis."

• Origin: France, 1969.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail
• Dimensions: 5/8” x 11/16" (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 1.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .02 carat; diamond, .005 carat.

An elegant antique jewelry case covered in rich lipstick-red red velvet finished with satin trim and passementerie trim. The interior is covered in matching tufted silk. The interior of the lid is gilt-stamped “Horlogerie Bijouterie Brilloit Blaye [France].” The box was probably originally meant for a small pocket watch or a medallion. Records indicate the shop was located at 2, cours de La Fontaine as of 1889.

• Origin: France, ca. 1889.
• Condition: excellent; bright color; only the most minimal of wear at the corners.
• Dimensions: 2-1/8” x 2-1/8” x 1-3/8”.