Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1645)

A heavy 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm in a crown form, set with five oval brilliant cut amethysts and four pearls. The amethysts have nice intense coloring and good clarity. The gold surfaces are ornately decorated with ropetwists and rosettes. Marked 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" x 1-1/16" x 1-3/16" (excluding jump ring). Weight: 11.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 11.83 cts.

A superb 6.42 carat natural star ruby set into a late Retro 18K yellow and white gold mounting. The ruby is color-graded as medium-dark, moderately strong purple-red (R/P 6/4). The ruby has fine clarity, without eye-visible inclusions. The cut has excellent symmetry and a high dome, resulting in a well-centered bright star with straight, evenly spaced, long rays. The ruby is set in a very attractive 18K yellow gold setting with geometric white gold accents. The interior of the shank is stamped "18K 750".

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 11. Dimensions: 1/2" wide at crown, tapering to 3/8" at back of shank. Weight: 8.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.42 carats (by measurement).

An attractive 14K yellow gold ring with a double row of channel-set calibre-cut blue sapphires arranged in a swag design. The ribbed gold surfaces further add to the ring's sense of movement. The sapphires are well-matched and have good, saturated color. The interior of the shank is marked "14K."

Origin: America. Dimensions: 7/16" wide at crown, tapering to 3/32" at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 5. Weight: 3.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .75 ct.

An elegant pair of past-colored multi-gem earrings set in 18K white gold by Asprey. From the "Daisy" collection, these dangling earrings feature a flower blossom of blue topaz, pink tourmaline, peridot and amethyst petals surrounding a center diamond. A cascading ribbon of matching gemstones descends from the flower. The stones are set so minimal metal shows from the front to add to the delicate appearance. The earrings are signed Asprey and are marked for 18K gold. They are presented in their original suede-lined leather box from Asprey. The original retail price in 2007 was $6500.

Dimensions: 1-5/8" long. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: blue topaz, 2.64 cts; pink tourmaline, 1.26 cts; amethyst, 1.08 cts; peridot, .88 ct; diamond, .10 ct. Weight: 8.4 grams.

A pretty pair of Art Deco 12K yellow gold, coral and pearl tassel earrings. Lengths of gold chain studded with small pearls and coral beads hang freely from the pearl surmounts. The coral has attractive, uniform color and the semi-baroque pearls have especially bright luster. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn and would have paired nicely with the long chains and fringed gowns fashionable in the 1920s. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold (clutches are 14K).

Origin: England, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, except one pearl that has a flake to the nacre visible upon close inspection. Dimensions: 1-3/8" long. Weight: 3.9 grams.

A stunning 18K yellow gold festoon necklace featuring dozens of ornately intertwined swags and drops studded with small natural pearls and Mediterranean coral beads. The necklace is finished with an Etruscan style box clasp of the sort associated with Luigi Pallotti e Fratelli, one of the most exclusive jewelers in late 19th century Venice. This particular style of festoon necklace is particularly associated with his work. Pallotti exhibited successfully at the World' Colombian Exposition in Chicago in 1893. The clasp is stamped with Venetian gold marks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: overall length, 14-1/2"; length of center drop, 2-1/2". Weight: 22.8 grams.

A stunning Victorian butterfly brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and silver. The body comprises a cabochon garnet inset with a rose cut diamond, all set between a pair of bright green emerald eyes and a tapering tail of natural pearls The delicately pierced wings are set with 24 rose cut diamonds, two rubies, two emeralds and eight blue sapphires. The butterfly is completed with gold legs and antennae. The brooch is beautifully made. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, the original c-clasp has been replaced with a safety clasp. Dimension: 1-5/8" x 1-1/2". Weight: 14.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.79 carats.

A fine Edwardian platinum and natural saltwater pearl necklace. The strand comprises 72 natural pearls of graduated sizes (3.7 to 5.0 mm) strung between platinum links. The pearls have symmetrical button shape, white body color with cream overtones, and excellent luster. The pearls are well-matched for size and quality throughout the strand. The necklace is finished with replaced 18K white gold clasp.

The necklace is accompanied by a gemological report from the Laboratoire Français de Gemmologie indicating that the pearls are natural saltwater.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, replaced clasp as noted. Dimensions: 17-5/8" long. Weight: 10.7 grams.

An important artist-designed 18K yellow gold and emerald ring by Maison Gennari of Paris. The ring is styled in the Art Nouveau taste, with a voluptuous mermaid surrounded by waves and seaweed. She leans against a pair of cabochon emeralds, whose green color reinforces the watery feeling of the design. The ring is stamped with French 18K marks and is signed by Maison Gennari.

Francois Gennari was a jeweler who collaborated with sculptors to create one-of-a-kind jewels. The works were displayed at the Galerie Gennari at 25, rue Bonaparte in Paris. Gennari primarily used the lost-wax method, insuring that each piece is virtually unique.

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Dimensions: shank tapers from 9/32" to 5/8" wide. Finger Size: 6. Weight: 18.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.24 cts.

An Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold pin featuring a beautifully enameled morning glory enclosed in a gold whiplash frame. The flower petals and leaves have very fine enameling in translucent shades of rose, cream and green. The enamel has the iridescent finish more often seen in the best quality enameled pieces from Newark workshops. A small pearl peeks out the top of the morning glory. The gold frame is set with rows of rose cut diamonds. Since the morning glory opens and withers in a single day, some charts of Victorian flower language say the flower was used to represent "love in vain." The pinstem is stamped "18Ct".

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1". Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .36 carat.

An exceptionally fine Victorian 18K yellow gold and turquoise locket in the Etruscan Revival taste. The outside of the sphere is encrusted with ornate wirework decoration against a stippled background. Small Persian turquoise cabochons, some set in star-shaped mountings, add a touch of color. The clasp is cleverly hidden to be nearly invisible when the ball is closed. Indistinctly marked; tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: England or America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 11.2 grams.

A superb 19th century French figural fob seal worked in silver and 18K gold. The gorgeously detailed wolf's head is worked in silver with gold accents such as the collar and the long tongue that hangs from one side of the very toothy jaws. The eyes are set with small rubies. The carnelian seal has never been engraved. Tested and guaranteed silver and 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, a very small flake on one corner of the carnelian, jump ring is a later addition. Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8" x 1-5/16" (excluding jump ring). Weight: 21.7 grams.

A particularly nice Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of a floral spray. The strap-like leaves are worked in shaded green enamels, and the flowers are made from freshwater "dogtooth" pearls centered with old mine cut diamonds. The pearls have particularly attractive silvery luster and their irregular shapes beautifully mimic the frilly edges of flower petals. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp. Marked by Henry Freund & Bro.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, a very small enamel flake at the upper tip of the top leaf just beneath the pearl flower. Dimensions: 1-1/13" x 7/8". Weight: 4.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 ct.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pendant enhanced with translucent enamels in varying shades of green and a touch of rose. The whiplash curve outlines are studded with seed pearls and the whole suspends a baroque freshwater pearl. The pendant is attached to a fine Etruscan Revival 12K gold chain, the box clasp enhanced with ropetwist and beaded decoration. Both parts tested and guaranteed gold as described.

Origin: pendant, America, ca. 1900; chain, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: overall chain length, 17-3/4"; pendant, 15/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 9.9 grams.

A classic pair of Hermes 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the "Etrier" design. Each hinged end is in the form of a stirrup. The connectors are signed "Hermes", have serial numbers and are fully marked with appropriate French 18K gold marks. Etrier cufflinks in gold are no longer available at Hermes. The same design in sterling silver currently retails for $970. A similar design in gold, but with no moveable parts currently retails for $4750.

Origin: France, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 9/16" x 9/16". Weight: 15.8 grams.

A very fine pair of cufflinks, the faces worked as star-cut frosted rock crystal discs set in platinum borders with engine-turned engraving and centering French-cut blue sapphires. The sapphires have fine, medium violetish-blue color and excellent clarity. The 14K yellow gold connectors match the gold findings on the faces and are stamped with Krementz' 14K mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 5.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .45 carat.

A very nice pair of Victorian double-faced 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces set with trios of diamonds, rubies and sapphires. The diamonds are old mine cut, while the sapphires and rubies are cabochons. The colored stones are of very good color and show now indications of heat treatment. The gold surfaces are worked with the slightly matte Russian finish popular for higher quality jewelry of the period. Jewelry set with red, white and blue gemstones tended to gain popularity around key anniversaries or important events in American history. It is likely that these cufflinks date to the centennial year of 1876. The back of each face is marked 14K and has an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1876. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 21/32" x 13/32". Weight: 7.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .16 ct; sapphire, .23 ct; ruby, .23 ct.

A heavy pair of 18K yellow gold mesh stirrup-style cufflinks. A round diamond is set into each end of the closing mechanisms. The mesh is distinguished with diamond-shaped punched decoration that adds more texture to the design than is ordinarily seen. The diamonds are of nice quality, graded as I/J color, SI1 clarity. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and also bears an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 3/8" wide. Weight: 20.2 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 carat.

A very fine and rare Bohemian garnet pendant featuring an openwork butterfly pave set with rose-cut garnets and enclosed within a heart-shaped gilt metal frame. Most Bohemian garnet jewelry was made in the more traditional styles popular in England and America, but this pendant--in the more stylized Germanic Jugendstil--is particularly striking. Some of the butterfly's wings are set with large, deeply colored stones, while others are set with smaller, brighter stones to provide contrast. The pendant is completed with a 20-inch gold-filled chain.

Origin: Bohemia, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; chain is a later addition. Dimensions: pendant, 1-1/2 x 2-7/8".

An classic pair of French 18K yellow gold baton cufflinks with a most unusual mechanical snap mechanism. The batons have reeded surfaces with plain inset bands at either end. When one of the plain bands is pushed in, a hidden spring mechanism releases the face from its mate. Snap cufflinks were uncommon in France, and this is the first pair we've seen combining the snap with a mechanical action. The cufflinks bear French gold hallmarks and are stamped with an unidentified goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: batons, 29/32" long. Weight: 14.5 gr.

An iconic "Lentils" necklace crafted in hematite by Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co. Cummings began designing with lentil-shaped beads in late 1980 and it became one of her hallmarks. This hematite necklace is punctuated with a single platinum lentil pave-set with round brilliant diamonds (G/VS1). The brilliance of the diamonds is particularly nice against the dark color of the hematite. The clasp is signed "Cummings", "T&Co." and "IridPlat".

Origin: America, ca. 1985. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 15-3/4" long; beads, 7/16" diameter. Total Diamond Weight: .70 ct.

A very good example of a mid-20th century pearl and jade cluster ring by Ming's of Honolulu. Wook Moon opened his shop in 1940 and specialized in creating interesting designs that combined traditional Hawaiian motifs and gems popular in the South Pacific and Asian communities. This cluster ring features are green, black, white, yellow and red jade spheres nestled among ivory-colored pearls. The jade has good translucency and the pearls have very attractive luster, smooth surfaces and distinct gold overtones. Most rings by Ming's had gold leaves interspersed among the gems, but this example is particularly attractive because there are no leaves--just 22 colored spheres tightly packed into a very large cluster. The back of the ring is constructed with a double shank to provide more stability. The setting is entirely handmade and is stamped "Ming's" and "14K".

Origin: Hawaii, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 8-3/4. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/4 x 1-1/8". Weight: 14.7 grams.

A very fine pair of heavy 18K yellow gold and platinum double-sided cufflinks by David Webb. The round faces are shaped as compressed spheres (imagine an old-fashioned flying saucer) bisected by pairs of parallel raised bars. Each face is centered with a round brilliant blue sapphire bezel-set in platinum. The smaller, back faces are hinged so they can easily be put through a cuff. The gold and platinum have a very elegant brushed texture that contrasts beautifully with the sapphires. The sapphires are of the very finest quality, graded as medium vivid blue (B5/6). The clarity is eye-clean and the stones have not been subjected to heat treatment. The cufflinks are quite heavy. Each is marked "Webb" and "18K".

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: larger faces, 3/4" diameter. Weight: 25.8 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.5 carat.

A wonderful pair of Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. The faces feature finely detailed images of a bearded, horned devil with pointed ears and wild hair shown against a fiery background. The workmanship of the chasing and engraving is superb. Mythological subjects were especially popular during the Art Nouveau period, and certainly this devil's head could be seen as an extension of that popularity. The faces are attached to plain oval backs, which have never been engraved with a monogram. Each cufflink is signed with the Tiffany & Co. mark used around 1900 and is marked for 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Dimensions: 3/4 x 3/8". Weight: 10.4 grams.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow and white gold stirrup cufflinks by Cartier. The design is similar to the "Trinity" design, but features just two rings with a wavy profile. This is the first time we've seen this particular pattern. The cufflinks are hinged at the back and snap shut at the top of the arch. Each cufflink is fully marked with serial numbers, the master goldsmith's mark and "Cartier Paris."

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter; 1/4" wide. Weight: 17.9 grams.

A classic pair of very high quality 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks by Carrington. Each pair has one face centered with a round cut sapphire and another face with a old European cut diamond, both surrounded by a lightly engraved border. The quality of the stones is very good. The diamonds are graded at H color, VVS2 clarity and the sapphire are vivid violet-blue with eye clean clarity. The back of each face is marked with Carrrington's hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16 x 11/16". Weight: 14.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .30 ct; sapphire, .25 ct.

A very fine pair of double-sided knot cufflinks worked in platinum and set with diamonds and sapphires. The diamonds are graded as G color, VS1 clarity. The sapphires are of equal quality, with medium-dark vivid blue color and eye-clean clarity. All stones are well-cut with good proportions. The faces are attached with removable connectors. Each face is stamped with an unidentified European hallmark.

Dimensions: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 17.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .50 carat; sapphire, .57 carat.

A very fine pair of late Edwardian/Deco transitional cufflinks, the 14K yellow gold faces set with scissor-cut citrines, amethyst and green tourmaline. Each of the stones fits into a gallery beautifully engraved in a scrolled motif. Most unusually, instead of traditional prongs, the stones are held in place by lozenge-shaped plaques of platinum, each set with a small rose cut diamond. The stones have very attractive color and excellent clarity. The connectors are removable. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: faces, 9/16 x 7/16". Weight: 8.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 6.36 cts; amethyst, 3.17 cts; tourmaline, 3.68 cts; diamond, .08 ct.

A handsome pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces featuring citrines cut en cabochon. The color is a deep amber instead of the more usual brownish-yellow. The cufflinks are tested and guaranteed 14K gold and are signed by George O. Street & Sons.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 10.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 22.72 carats.

A delicate 14K gold crescent pin worked as a bough of enameled laurel leaves bound at the middle with a golden ribbon. The rich green leaves are punctuated with small seed pearls. The back of the pin is stamped for 14K gold and has the mark for H.A. Kirby of Providence, RI.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, very minor flakes to enamel when viewed under 10x magnification. Dimensions: 1-7/8" long. Weight: 3.1 grams.

A beautiful pair of Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold cufflinks designed by Louis Armand Rault. The design features a maiden with large flowers in her hair. The edges of the faces are irregularly cut to conform to the outlines of the design. The faces are connected with chains to backs decorated in a strapwork motif. Louis Rault worked primarily for Boucheron and was widely considered the finest gold and silver chaser of his time. He largely set the foundation for Boucheron's gold medal victory at the 1900 Exposition Universelle. Each face is signed with Rault's monogram and each cufflink is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: front face, 5/8" diameter. Weight: 6.5 grams.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces fashioned as ornate batons. Each of batons has a lobed device at each end similar to the head on a 16/17th century Ottoman ceremonial mace used to connote that the bearer carried the full authority of the Sultan Khan. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: batons, 1-1/4" long. Weight: 10.4 grams.

A beautiful 18K rose gold pendant set with an array of brilliant round-cut colored gems including green tourmaline, peridot, aquamarine, garnet, green beryl, citrine and pink topaz. The gems are arranged in a circle around the central peridot set in a multi-level buttercup setting. The rosy shade of the gold contrasts beautifully with the rich colors of the gemstones. Although it is not signed, we feel strongly that this piece was created by H Stern, around the same time as the iconic "Sputnik" line was introduced. These jewels featured the wide array of gems to be found in Stern's Brazilian mines. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 9.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.96 carats.

A fascinating pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks set with emeralds. This is only the second pair we've seen with this particular type of mechanism. The "wheat-style" chain is inserted through the cuff and then wrapped around the emerald-set head. It works much like the more traditional stirrup-style, but with more flexibility. Each head is set with a pair of rectangular emeralds. As is typical of the Retro period when trade was restricted by World War II, the emeralds are synthetic. The stones have beautiful, deeply-saturated color. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: head, 3/8 x 1/8 inch. Weight: 10.2 grams.

An extremely rare 18K yellow gold bracelet in the Sputnik design by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's mines in Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This bracelet has strong, saturated colors in autumnal hues. This design was made in earrings, pendants, charms, rings, brooches and bracelets; the bracelet is by far the most difficult piece to find. This bracelet is marked for 18K and is also marked with one of Stern's early hallmarks.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: all excellent except one dome that has a ding around one of the stones (not particularly visible unless you're really looking for it). Dimensions: 27/32" wide; 7-1/2" long. Weight: 23.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 18.34 carats.

An extraordinary pair of French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold enameled cufflinks, the faces featuring flowers bearing a secret message. In Victorian symbology, the daisy represented "innocence" or "purity", whereas the red poppy meant "pleasure". Taken together, the choice of flowers in these cufflinks was certainly intended to convey an erotic sentiment. The faces are beautifully hand-pierced and highlighted with translucent enamels in delicate shades of green, rosy red and whitish-yellow. The exposed areas of gold are worked in the semi-matte Russian finish popular in better quality Art Nouveau jewels. Each face is marked with the "tete d'aigle" for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent; a couple of extremely minor enamel flakes under magnification. Dimensions: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 10.8 grams.