Catalog (2481)

An outstanding Retro 18K gold mesh buckle bracelet generously set with diamonds and rubies. The bracelet is constructed with alternating bands of rose and yellow gold, creating a subtle striped pattern. The buckle is topped with platinum and is set with old European cut diamonds around the frame and calibre-cut synthetic rubies (typical of the period) on the prong. The tip of the bracelet strap is channel-set with synthetic rubies. The diamonds are H/I color and VS1 clarity. The mesh has a series of six small "belt holes" that allow the bracelet to be sized appropriately in 1/4-inch increments anywhere from 6 to 7 1/4 inches. The buckle is further secured with a safety catch. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1935
• DIMENSIONS: overall length, 8 3/4"; strap width, 7/8"; buckle width, 1 5/16"
• WEIGHT 80.3 grams.
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: diamond, 1.18 carats; ruby, 2.16 carats
• CONDITION excellent

A nice bracelet comprising twelve Victorian era 14K and 10K gold slides. The slides are in various styles, but are all original to the Victorian period. Slide bracelets enjoyed a moment of popularity in the 1930s when older Victorian pieces were dismantled and converted into a new style of charm bracelets. The first, tenth, eleventh and twelfth slides (L to R in the first photo) are 10K. The others are 14K. The diamonds, opals, turquoise and pearls are natural; the sapphires and rubies are glass. The two opals, in particular, are very nice quality. The slides are strung on a 14K gold double chain with 14K gold spacer beads and a 14K clasp. Tested and guaranteed metal content.

• ORIGIN America, ca 1860-1900
• DIMENSIONS 7 3/4" long
• WEIGHT 16.5 grams
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: diamond, .03 carat; opal, .6 carat
• CONDITION excellent, a few light pinpoint dings on the largest slide

A pair of Modernist 14K gold and sapphire cufflinks in the brutalist style. The gold surfaces are etched in a Florentine finish that contrasts nicely with the rich blue sapphires. The toggles are marked "14K".

• ORIGIN America, ca 1970
• DIMENSIONS 1 1/8" x 3/8"
• WEIGHT 14.8 grams
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: sapphire, .84 carat
• CONDITION excellent

An Edwardian 14K yellow and rose gold bracelet featuring three Essex crystals of flying ducks set between depicting cattails. The cattail leaves are worked in gold that is very slightly tinted green, and the brown part of the cattail is rose gold. Reverse-carved intaglios became popular in the Victorian era, especially to depict sporting and hunting themes. They remained popular through the early part of the 20th century. The crystal depict three different species, including a mallard. Each duck is shown flying over water. The carving and painting are nicely done. The back is marked “14K”.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1920
• CONDITION very good, all original, the crystals have faint moisture marks around the edges (much less visible than in the photos)
• DIMENSIONS 7-5/8” long; 9/16” wide
• WEIGHT 20.5 grams

An attractive 800 silver and Baltic amber ring, the oval cabochon amber in a silver setting reminiscent of Jensen’s designs from the 1930s. The amber is natural has not been quench-crackled. The back of the shank is signed with an unidentified maker’s mark and has Polish hallmarks for 800 silver.

• ORIGIN Poland, ca. 1970
• CONDITION excellent; silver has been lightly cleaned to retain patina
• FINGER SIZE 7-1/4
• DIMENSIONS crown, 1” x 3/4"
• WEIGHT 7.0 grams

A pin featuring three horses, each sporting a red enamel bridle by the New York maker Sloan & Company. The horses are finely detailed. The clasp is stamped with Sloan's 14K mark.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1920.
• DIMENSIONS 1 3/4" x 9/16".
• WEIGHT 5.4 grams.
• CONDITION excellent; no enamel damage; sharp detail.

A wonderful Victorian 14K gold comet pin worked in the Etruscan Revival style. The pin is decorated with ornate granulated rosettes and ropetwist motifs surrounding a single square Persian turquoise cabochon set at the comet's nucleus. The gold surfaces are bloomed for a soft sheen. Tested and guaranteed 14K.The pin was likely produced to commemorate the appearance of Halley's Comet in 1835.

• Origin: America, ca. 1835.
• Dimensions: 2 1/8" long.
• Weight: 4.4 grams.
• Condition: excellent, all original, no dings or missing decorative elements.

A glamorous pair of drop earrings in a formal Georgian style set with rose cut diamonds and richly colored pear-shaped rhodolite garnets. The gems are set in silver-topped 12K gold to heighten the color of the diamonds, in the manner of period Georgian jewels. The main body of the earring is hinged and swings freeely from the surmounts. The earrings are completed with a diamond-set fringe at the bottom edge. The rose cut diamonds have nice sparkle that nicely complements the rich purple color of the garnets. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold.

• Dimensions: 2 3/8" long from top of earwire.
• Weight: 8.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .62 carat; rhodolite garnet, 1.4 carats.

A fine Victorian 14K gold mesh and onyx cameo bracelet. The center cameo depicts a classical youth flanked by four maidens, all in Greek or Roman attire. The cameos are nicely carved with good detail. The clasp is concealed by the male cameo. A heavy gold mesh makes up the remainder of the bracelet. The gold has a slight rose tint that contrasts nicely with the black and white of the cameos. The tongue of the clasp is stamped "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 7 5/8" long; 13/16" wide.
• Weight: 34.5 grams.
• Condition: excellent; no damage to cameos; all original except the safety chain added at a later date (easily removed).

A substantial Retro 18K rose gold bow pin set with diamonds and natural rubies. The center knot features an old mine cut diamond flanked by small rose-cut diamonds set in white gold that extend out across the loops of the bow. Two rows of natural rubies accent the design. The rubies have fine red coloring without the hint of purple often seen. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Circa 1940.
• Dimensions: 2 3/8" x 1 1/2".
• Weight: 17.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .30 carat; ruby, 1.09 carats.
• Condition: excellent, all original.

A very nice small-size silver plate wine taster in the classical style. The bottom features the typical convex bottom surrounded by concave "godrons" adn "cupules." intended to create high and low spots to better appreciate the color of the wine as light is reflected through it. The open shape also allows the bouquet to develop quickly so the wine can be tested easily. The snake handle is generally seen on tastevins from the region of Bourgogne. The tastevin bears an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 2 1/4" diameter excluding handle.
• Condition: excellent, no dings, sharp detail.

A handsome pair of double-sided cufflinks featuring oval carnelian cabochons simply set in 14K yellow gold mountings. The carnelians have exceptionally rich color and translucency, creating a particularly striking look. Each cufflink is stamped "585" for 14K and also with an unidentified European maker's mark "FA".

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1940.
• Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 11/16".
• Weight: 9.5 grams.
• Condition: excellent.

A set of six sterling silver coffee spoons by Asprey & Co. Each spoon has a brownish-black bakelite “coffee bean”—a decorative device popular in England during the Art Deco period. Each spoon is fully hallmarked for Asprey, 1931. The spoons are presented in their original silk- and velvet-lined fitted box, the lid of which is imprinted “Asprey/166 Bond St/London”.

• Origin: England, 1931.
• Dimensions: spoons, 3 7/8" long.
• Weight: 43.0 grams.
• Condition: excellent, all original, no monograms; case is like new.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in a brushed finish with prong-set sapphires. The design of a cut-out triangle superimposed over a solid triangle creates a layered effect that lends a nice feeling of depth to the cufflinks. The toggle backs are marked "14K".

li>Origin: America, ca. 1950.
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4" x 3/4".
• Weight: 13.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .15 carat.
• Condition: excellent, one toggle has a minute ding on the edge.

A very rare pair of 14K yellow gold, diamond and lapis lazuli cufflinks designed by Erté in the "La Dentelle-State I" pattern. The faces of the cufflinks are shaped as stylized birds, with lapis cabochons for eyes. The exposed gold surfaces are engraved and cast in an intricate pattern of geometric bars and swirls to suggest feathers. Short bands of bead-set single-cut diamonds finish the design.

Known throughout his career as a costume designer and illustrator, Erté began designing jewelry in 1979. At the time of his death in 1990, he had produced just over 300 different designs, most of them made in rather small limited editions. Only 100 examples of the "La Dentelle-State I" cufflinks were made. The backs are signed "Erté", "CFA 14K", and "11/100".

• Origin: America, ca. 1980.
• Dimensions: 2 1/8" x 7/8".
• Weight: 20 Condition: excellent. Size: 2-1/8" x 7/8". Weight: 20.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: lapis, 4.8 carats; diamond, .42 carat.

A boxed set of sterling silver demitasse spoons by Paye & Baker. The set comprises two each of three different floral themes, all worked in the same intaglio style with glossy flowers and foliage against a stippled background. Two of the spoons are decorated with a pattern of wild roses, two with morning glories and two with pansies. The edges of the stems and handles are shaped to match the patterns. The bowls are finished with matte gilding. The backs are hallmarked by Paye & Baker and are marked "Sterling". The company made only a small range of products, but their Art Nouveau motifs were expertly designed.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: 4" long.
• Weight: 38.8 grams.
• Condition: spoons, excellent condition, typical light fading of gilding on bowls; box has typical discoloration and wear.

An elegant classic-style French silver tastevin of traditional form. The bowl is decorated with raised "perles", concave "cupules" and elongated "godrons" for assessing the depth of color in both red and white wines. The curved sides help concentrate the aroma, so only a very small amount of wine has to be poured to judge quality. The looped handle allows the tastevin to be worn suspended from a chain. Tastevins with round thumbpieces are generally from the Paris region. The handle is marked for first standard silver (950/1000 pure silver) and also has partially obscured master silversmith's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: 2 11/16" diameter (excluding handle).
• Weight: 37.0 grams.
• Excellent condition; two small dings on bottom, mostly hidden by the design and two very small (1/16") dings on the upper rim.

A fine pair of mid-century modern 14K yellow gold and diamond cufflinks by Larter. The heavy gold faces are decorated with parallel lines and the canted edges are bead-set with brilliant round-cut diamonds. The diamonds are of very good quality, estimated at I color, VS clarity. The stones are set in white gold enhanced with milgrain borders. The backs are completed with the older type of toggle mounting. The backs are stamped with Larter’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1950.

Dimensions: faces, 5/8" x 1/2".

Weight: 13.5 grams.

Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 carat.

Condition: excellent; all original.

A classic pair of double-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces enhanced with engine-turned engraving and opaque black champleve enamel borders. The borders are further accented with a gold strapwork motif. The connectors are marked with unidentified American hallmarks, “HB” and “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage.
• Dimensions: 19/32” diameter.
• Weight: 9.2 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst-textured background paired with the simple beveled border used in the 1950s. The smaller size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1950.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 21/32” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .06 carat.

A classic silverplated single-serving cocktail shaker by Napier in 1934 specifically to be sold at Saks Fifth Avenue. The shakers were made in two variations, one with a dial on the top indicating the type of cocktail within and this version, with the profile of a rooster on the lid. The shaker has a built-in strainer and pouring spout. When removed, the lid becomes a footed cocktail glass. The bottom of the shaker is stamped "Napier Pat. Pend."

• Origin: America, ca. 1934.
• Dimensions: 6 1/2" tall.
• Condition: very good; light wear to plating as is typical of all Napier silverplated items; a pinpoint and a 1/4" ding to the side of the cap/cup.

An uncommon silver tastevin, the bottom inset with a Mexican silver coin featuring the likeness of King Ferdinand VII of Spain, the last Spanish emperor to rule over Mexico. The coin is dated 1821, the year Mexico became independent of Spain. The tastevin is constructed in classic French style, with a coiled snake handle, but it lacks the embellishments usually seen on French examples. The bowl is simply decorated with a hammered surface. The tastevin probably dates to the reign of the Emperor Maximilian, who ruled Mexico’s Second Empire (1864-67). Maximilian was established as emperor by the French Emperor Napoleon III, and French decorative arts became very popular among the wealthy of Mexican society.

• Origin: Mexico, ca. 1864.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 9 x 11.5 cm (3-9/16 x 4-9/16 in).
• Weight: 112.0 grams.

A French Art Deco cocktail pick set in the form of Gideon the duck and his snail friend worked in chrome on a mahogany base. The design is by the famed French Art Deco illustrator Benjamin Rabier, who created a comic strip called "The Adventures of Gideon" in 1923. It was immensely popular and Rabier was commissioned to make a range of entertaining barware. Few of Rabier's designs were signed, but this example is signed with his full name. The twelve picks have red bakelite finials. Cocktail pick holders ("porte-piques") were once a fixture of every French bar and café. Today, they can be use to spear olives of cherries in a cocktail, or to serve small hors d'oeuvres.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930.
• Dimensions: 5 7/16" x 3" x 4 1/2".
• Condition: very good; a small area of wear to chrome in the folds of the tail feathers and another smaller spot on the underside of the tail; normal age-appropriate wear to the wooden base.

A French Art Deco cocktail pick set in the form of a large snail worked in chrome on a mahogany base. The design is by the famed French Art Deco illustrator Benjamin Rabier, who had a side job designing entertaining barware. The twelve picks have red bakelite finials. Cocktail pick holders ("porte-piques") were once a fixture of every French bar and café. Today, they can be use to spear olives of cherries in a cocktail, or to serve small hors d'oeuvres.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930.
• Dimensions: 5 3/8” x 2 7/8” x 4 1/2”.
• Condition: excellent, all original; no chrome loss.

A rare and elegant boxed set of six sterling silver citrus spoons in Paye & Baker's "Orange" pattern. The handles are decorated front and back with oranges, orange blossoms and foliage. Paye & Baker primarily made souvenir spoons, and this particular pattern was usually associated with Los Angeles, considered a very exotic location at the beginning of the 20th century. These spoons are the only set we've seen made as citrus spoons. The sharply-pointed deep bowls retain their original matte gilding. Each spoon is fully hallmarked.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: spoons, 5 1/2" long.
• Weight: 158.4 grams.
• Condition: excellent; gilding intact; box has considerable age-appropriate wear and discoloration.

An elegant set of six sterling silver demitasse spoons by English silversmith William Suckling, Ltd. The handles are simply decorated with an acanthus bud. The bowls are slightly broader and more balloon-shaped than the typical demitasse spoon, so they could easily be used for delicate desserts. The set is presented in its original velvet- and silk-lined fitted case. Each spoon is fully hallmarked for the maker and for the year 1945. A set such as this must have quite the rare luxury in the final year of World War II.

• Origin: London, 1945.
• Dimensions: spoons, 3 13/16" long.
• Weight: 58.2 grams.
• Condition: both the spoons and case appear to be unused.

An uncommon boxed set of twelve Art Deco sterling silver cocktail picks with red bakelite finials in the shape of maraschino cherries. The picks are presented in their original velvet and silk-lined fitted box. Each pick is marked “Sterling Silver”. It's quite rare to find a set of a dozen picks rather than the standard six.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Condition: picks are excellent; box shows expected wear for the age.
• Dimensions: picks, 3” long.
• Weight: 24.8 gr.

An elegant Art Deco panel-cut crystal perfume bottle in the "Frise Verte" pattern by Baccarat. The sides are cut in an austere panel design adorned at the shoulder with a band of cameo etched floral decoration in green. The geometric cameo pattern contrasts handsomely with simplicity of the panel cutting. The bottle's lip is also overlaid in green. The bottom is cut with a 24-ray star and the stopper is lapidary cut. The pattern appears in Baccarat's 1916 catalogue.

• Origin: France, ca. 1916.
• Dimensions: 6 1/4" tall.
• Condition: excellent; no chips or cracks.

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold, ruby and enamel love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst textured background paired with a bright-cut border in a style introduced in 1969. It is signed “A.A.” The medium size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1970.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 11/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .04 carat.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst-textured background paired with the simple beveled border used in the 1950s. The smaller size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1950.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 21/32” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .06 carat.

"Birds in Paradise" is the catalogue printed for the special exhibition of the same name at Van Cleef's L'Ecole, School of Jewelry Arts in 2019. The exhibition focused on jewelry inspired by birds and was drawn from two private collections and Van Cleef's heritage collection. The catalogue is printed entirely in color and features illustrations of about 100 jewels, as well as drawings and other source material for their design. It's completed with a series of scholarly essays. The catalogue was provided only to guests attending the exhibition and was not published for the general public. Paperback, 141 pages.

A very fine Edwardian sterling silver powder box with guilloche enamel in translucent ivory. The lid is decorated with a elegantly colorful painted enamel bouquet of wildflowers tied with a blue ribbon and the sides with complementary floral sprigs. The gilt interior is stamped with Imperial Austrian hallmarks and the master silversmith's for Georg Adam Scheid. Scheid was a silversmith to the Imperial Family and was particularly known for beautiful enameled items such as boxes, compacts, parasol handles and miniature clocks. This box would make an elegant spot for jewelry or other small items.

• Origin: Austria, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: 4 1/16" diameter; 1 5/8" high.
• Condition: excellent, very minor surface wear visible upon close inspection in strong raking light.

An elegant French 18K yellow gold 22" chain enhanced with randomly-spaced small semi-baroque pearls set at irregular lengths and finished with a bulldog swivel clip perfect for hanging interchangeable charms or pendants (as shown for illustration purposes). The pendant is being sold separately. It is item number 1405532 in our catalog. Stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900.
• Length: 22".
• Weight: 12.7 grams.

A nice mid-century modern French cocktail pick set featuring a blonde wood stylized snail with a chrome shell. He's perched on a set of chrome leaves that hold the six chrome and plastic-topped cocktail picks. Cocktail pick holders ("porte-piques") were once a fixture of every French bar and café. They can be used to spear olives or cherries for cocktails or to serve small hors d'oeuvres.

• Origin: France, ca. 1960.
• Dimensions: 5-1/2" x 2-1/2" x 3-5/8" high.
• Condition: excellent; tiny amount of chrome wear.

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold, ruby and enamel love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. The remainder of the text is highlighted in black enamel. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst textured background paired with a bright-cut border in a style introduced in 1969. It is signed “A.A.” The medium size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1975.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .04 carat.

A delightful and very rare French Art Deco silverplate cocktail shaker with enamel recipe decoration by Deschamps Frères of Paris. The enameled decoration depicts a pair of scrolled documents with seals presenting recipes for “Torelli” and “Winter Palace” cocktails. Both are rather unusual variations on a classic martini. Adolphe Torelli was the barman at the famous Winter Palace Hotel in Nice. His book, “900 Recette de Cocktails et Boissons Américaines: Guide du Barman et du Gourmet Chic” (“900 Recipes for American Cocktails and Drinks: A Guide for the Bartender at the Stylish Gourmet”) was published in 1927. It was among the first important bartender’s books from the cocktail era. This shaker was likely produced just after the publication. Deschamps Frères opened in 1920 and was known at the time for its interesting enameled silverplate barware, but the items are quite rare today and the enamel is often in poor condition. The bottom is stamped with Deschamps’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1927.
• Dimensions: 8-1/4” tall.
• Condition: good; no dings; some yellow enamel loss; isolated pitting, light dulling and superficial scuffs to some areas of the plating.