Catalog (2179)

An elegant Belle Epoque bracelet comprising links in the Louis XVI style, set alternately with round emeralds and rose cut diamonds. The gemstones are set in crimped collets that mimic the center of each flower. Each link is hinged in a way that allows the bracelet to drape nicely on the wrist. The clasp is stamped with French 18K hallmarks and a illegible master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-1/2” long: 15/32” wide
• Weight: 17.4 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .10 carat; emerald, .06 carat

A lovely Art Nouveau gold watch pin in the form of a maiden appearing within the ruffled form of a pansy blossom. Tendrils of her hair cascade out toward the edges eventually disappearing into the veining of the flower’s petals. The back retains the original clasp and a hook to hang a watch. The pin could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the top. The hook could then be used to suspend a pearl or other gemstone drop. The clasp is indistinctly stamped with a mark for the karat content, and it is tested and guaranteed as 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 1” x 1”
• Weight: 4.4 grams

A stunning Art Deco worked in white gold, each link set with a square onyx plaque topped with a cabochon opal in a milgrain white gold collet. Spacers between the links are set with onyx beads flanked at the corners with old European, mine, and single cut diamonds. The opals have very good play of color, predominantly in shades of green and blue with orange flashes. The links are fully articulated so the bracelet sits nicely on the wrist. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1925
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: length, 6-7/8”, width 3/8” tapering to 1/4" at the back
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: opal, 6.36 carats; diamond, .70 carat
• Weight: 32.1 grams

An exquisite mid-century modern 18K gold and diamond necklace by André Vassort for the Parisian jeweler O. J. Perrin. The necklace comprises 47 butterfly-shaped graduated links, each separately hinged so they lie perfectly flat around the neck. The links are worked in the heavily textured style favored by Vassort. The center 21 links are each studded with a diamond so delicately set that it appears to float over its link. The diamonds are graded as E color and VVS1 clarity. The clasp is stamped with Vassort’s master’s mark and with French 18K gold marks. The necklace is presented in its original dark blue suede and moiré silk fitted box marked by the luxury jewelry house O. J. Perrin. Aside from Perrin, Vassort also created jewels for Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin, Cartier, and Boucheron. He also designed privately for Hollywood celebrities. In 1969, Van Cleef asked him to design and create the coronation crown for Empress Farah of Iran.

• Origin: France, ca 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 17-1/2” long; 5/8” wide tapering to 3/8” at back
• Weight: 103.6 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.75 carats

A stunning pair of lage Georgian or early Victorian transitional earrings worked in 18K gold and silver. The earrings, each in form of a convolvulus (morning glory) blossom feature a variety of antique cut diamonds, mostly cushion and mine cuts. The smallest stones are rose cuts. The diamonds are of excellent quality, mostly eye clean and with superb, warm sparkle as the earrings dangle freely. The expert craftsmanship that allowed the diamonds to be set very close together with little metal showing gives the earrings a dramatic appearance when being worn. Most of the diamonds are set “a jour” (open to the light at the back), but the largest center diamonds in the rosettes at the top of each earring are set in cut-down mountings which suggests the earrings were made in the transitional period between the Georgian and Victorian eras. The backs of the rosettes have a layer of 18K gold so the silver wouldn't tarnish the wearer's earlobes. The wires are 18K gold and are probably replacements of the originals.

• Origin: likely English or possibly French, ca 1830-40
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 11/16”
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 6.16 carats
• Weight: 8.8 grams

A delightful second standard (800/1000 pure silver) French tastevin featuring a mermaid. The overall design is in traditional Burgundian style, with “cupules,” and “perles” for viewing the color and clarity of either red or white wines, but this example is set apart because of the seaweed-surrounded mermaid set into the bottom. She has a distinctly “naughty mermaid” appearance typical of 1950s/60s Playboy illustrations. The thumb ring is worked in a rope motif. Both the thumbpiece and the bowl are stamped with French silver marks and the master silversmith’s mark for Ste Arcaud. The tastevin is presented in its original box from the Rolta boutiqueon rue de l’Opéra in Paris.

• Origin: France, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3-5/16” x 4-1/4” x 1”
• Weight: 86.0 grams

An elegant Edwardian heart-shaped locket worked in 18K yellow gold. The front cover is enhanced with a small rose cut diamond and three small no-heat rubies set in a stylized floral pattern with engraved stems. The decoration is reminiscent of Imperial Russian jewels of the era, but the locket bears French gold hallmarks and is marked “Déposé” indicating that the design had a copyright of sorts. The edges of both the front a back covers are finished with banded reeding décor. The chain is old, possibly original, but is gold-filled.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, a couple of tiny pinpoints on the back cover
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 15/16” excluding jump ring; chain, 18” long
• Weight: 2.1 grams (without chain)

An interesting late Retro 14K yellow gold bracelet worked as a series of sextupled cable links that are slightly flattened so they splay out sideways to create a wide bracelet with a sort of optical illusion effect. The clasp is decorated so the bracelet appears seamless when being worn. The open link design makes this a perfect bracelet to wear on its own or with chunky, heavy charms. The interior of the clasp is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8” wide; 7” long
• Weight: 38.2 grams

An elegant Victorian 18K gold pendant featuring an onyx plaque centered with a seed pearl. The gold setting is ornately worked in a rope twist motif and with bright-cut engraving. Three tiny seed pearls complete the design. The pendant is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-7/32” x 5/8”
• Weight: 3.0 grams

A wonderful and very rare Baccarat cut crystal perfume bottle in a simple panel cut enhanced with blue opaline “gems”. The lip of the bottle is cut in a deep petal shape. The stopper matches the décor of the bottle. Though known as “opaline” now, this type of glass was called “agate glass” when it was created at Baccarat in 1842. This pale blue color was called “bleu celeste” (“heavenly blue”). A very similar bottle has a full-page illustration in Jean-Louis Curtis’ landmark book “Baccarat.”

• Origin: France, ca 1845
• Condition: excellent, some extremely tiny abrasions to the facet edges of the gems on the stopper
• Dimensions: 4-1/8” x 4-1/8” x 6-1/4”

A vintage sterling silver vermouth dispenser in the form of a syringe by Gorham. These were called “Martini Spikes” when sold by Gorham in the 1960s. The functioning plunger allows vermouth to be drawn up into the syringe and then dispensed in precisely-calibrated doses for your medical cocktails. The syringe originally cost $10. The syringe is presented in its original fitted box and is accompalied by the illustrated instruction card.

• Origin: Amerca, ca 1967-70
• Condition: excellent, no monograms or dings; box in mint condition
• Dimensions: 6-1/4” long.

A nice Edwardian silver watch chain with striped niello decoration on each of the ornate links. The chain is finished at one end with a dog clip and at the other with a large niello bolt.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, niello intact
• Length: 10”
• Weight: 23.8 grams

A nice Edwardian silver watch chain with striped niello decoration on alternate links between smaller gilt links. The chain is finished with a niello swivel dog clip at one end and a large bolt with repousse and gilt decoration on the other. The chain is stamped with Swiss 800 silver marks used 1882-1934.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, niello intact
• Length: 11-1/4”
• Weight: 16.0 grams

A beautiful set of six sterling pastry or cake forks designed by Bernard Cuzner for Liberty & Co. in 1923. The handles are elegantly enhanced with blue and green champleve enamel in a sort of peacock feather design. Cuzner was Liberty’s most influential silver designer in the 1920s. This set is fully hallmarked by Liberty and has the date mark for 1928. They are presented in their original silk-lined fitted case.

• Origin: England, 1928
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, very minor wear to the case
• Dimensions: 5-1/8” long
• Weight: 86.3 grams

An elegant Edwardian bracelet worked in fancy curly-cued gold links, each with a slash of platinum-set rose cut diamonds for a little added sparkle. A collet-set ruby appears between each of the links. The rubies have nice color and are unheated. The links are formed loosely, so the bracelet has nice movement when being worn. The tongue of the concealed clasp is stamped with French 18K gold and platinum hallmarks and with an illegible master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1915
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: length, 6-3/4”; width, 5/16”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.2 carats; diamond, .20 carat
• Weight: 14.5 grams

A rare large silver plate double jigger by Napier. The larger end is marked of in one-ounce increments up to four ounces and the smaller end at 1-1/2 and 2-1/2 ounces. Both ends have a small pour lips to prevent dripping. The interior is marked “Napier Pat. Pend.” Napier began producing barware after being inspired by the 1925 World’s Fair in Paris that showcased Art Deco luxury and continued until the U.S.’s entry into World War II.

• Origin: America, 1925-41
• Condition: excellent, minor wear to interior, no plating wear to exterior
• Dimensions: 4-1/4” tall, 2-9/16” wide

A terrific first standard (950/1000 pure) silver tastevin by the acclaimed Dijon silversmith Marc Parrod. Though working in the very early 20th century, Parrod was fond of creating tastevins in fantasy styles of the 18th and early 19th centuries. Among his catalog of motifs were sides with repoussé decoration of grape clusters and leaves, bottoms inset with royal coins or medallions, double snake handles representing temptation in the Garden of Eden, and handles with engraved scenes or witty sayings. He must have had some /extra time when he made this tastevin, because it includes all these except the snake handle. In its place is a “tab handle” engraved with a cluster of grapes surrounded by a heart below the saying “A bon vin bonne humeur” (“To good wine and a good mood”). The bottom features a medallion (“jeton”) with the image of Louis XVI surrounded by a legend translated as “the most Christian King Louis XVI 1785”. The reverse of the medallion shows the coat of arms of the Duchy of Burgundy and the inscription “Comitia Burgundiae.” Silver jetons were struck by various civic governments (in this case, the Three Estates of Burgundy) or by the Crown itself to honor important people, significant historic occasions, or personal visits by the King. The rim is engraved with the name of the tastevin’s original owner Paulin from the wine village of Corton. The handle is stamped with Parrod’s mark and first-standard silver marks.

• Origin: Dijon, ca. 1903-1944 (most likely toward the earlier part of this period)
• Condition: excellent, no dings or monograms, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 2-7/8” x 3-13/16”
• Weight: 67.2 grams

A heavy French 18K gold and diamond pendant depicting a mythological griffin. The creature has the body of a lion and the head and wings of an eagle. His open jaws clasp an old mine cut diamond. The diamond has bright (G-ish) color and is VVS2 clarity. The griffin is depicted against a background of swirling foliage. The back is engraved to match the texture of the front. The griffin has two loops on the backs of the wingtips so it can be worn as a pendant. It originally also had a removable pin stem which is no longer present. The pendant is stamped with French 18K guarantee marks and a partial goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail, removable brooch mechanism absent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” x 1-3/8”
• Weight: 11.6 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .05 carat

A really inventive Victorian 14K gold book chain necklace, each link in the form of a heart. The links are further enhanced with heart appliques engraved in a floral pattern. The necklace is completed with a large reeded bolt clasp that could easily hold multiple pendants or charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1880
• Condition: excellent
Dimensions: 18-3/4” long
• Weight: 32.1 grams

An elegant cranberry-cut-to-clear perfume bottle, likely by Cristallerie de Saint Louis or Cristalleries de Nancy. The bottle is worked in a classic pattern of pillars finished with step cutting at the shoulders and panels cuts on the neck. The base is also cut-to-clear in a star pattern. The hollow-blown stopper is cut in a matching pattern.

• Origin: France, ca 1920
• Condition: excellent, no chips
• Dimensions: 2-9/16” x 2-9/16” x 6-1/2”
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A delightful mid-century modern jigger by Reed & Barton. The figurine of the town drunk has a 1920’s feel, but the interior green enamel identifies the jigger as part of Reed & Barton’s “Color-Clad” line designed by John Prip and introduced in 1961. The bottom is marked “Reed & Barton 2oz” and has the pattern number “260.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1961
• Condition: excellent, no plating wear or enamel damage
• Dimensions: 2-7/16” tall

A beautiful Art Deco cobalt blue overlap cut crystal perfume bottle in “Design 7623” by Cristalleries de Nancy. The bottle is cut alternately with clear pillars accented with stars at either end and blue pillars accented with printies rising to a step-cut shoulders and panel-cut neck. The hollow-blown stopper is cut to match with a large star cut at the apex. The base is stamped with the acid signature “Cristal Nancy France.” Cobalt blue is probably the rarest color in this particular pattern. The pattern was likely designed by the company’s artistic director, August Houillon. Cristalleries de Nancy was established in 1921 and after winning the gold medal at the 1925 Art Deco Exhibition in Paris, it became the primary challenger to Daum during the Art Deco period. Luxury perfume bottles and dresser accessories were the company’s specialty until it closed in 1934.

• Origin: France, 1921-34
• Condition: excellent, no chips
• Dimensions: 2-1/4” x 2-1/4” x 6-1/4

An elegant Victorian bangle bracelet, the front set with a triple row of 76 natural seed pearls that splay open toward the center which is set with a floret of old mine cut diamonds. The pearls have cream body color and fine luster and are perfectly matched. The diamonds are F/G color and VVS2 clarity. The center diamond is .34 ct and the others are .06 ct each. The clasp is well-concealed and it is stamped “15 Ct” and also has French import marks.

• Origin: England, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8” wide tapering to 3/16” at back; circumference 6-1/2”
• Weight: 23.5 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .82 carat

A nice pair of mid-Victorian earrings worked in chocolate brown lava set with pearls in 14K yellow gold. The earrings are designed as two acorns flanking an elongated amphora form surmounted by a lady’s head. The girandole arrangement (three elements suspended from a single element at the top) is relatively rare among lava earrings. Archaeological Revival lava jewelry from Pompeii was a very prized souvenir of a wealthy visitor’s Grand Tour through Italy due to the ongoing excavations there that accelerated in the late 1860s. The small pearls are natural and have excellent color and luster. Tested and guaranteed 15K gold.

• Italy & England, ca 1870
• Condition: excellent, no chips
• Dimensions: 3/4” wide; 1-15/16” long
• Weight: 5.8 grams

A lovely early Art Nouveau 18K gold sliding locket by the acclaimed medallist Jean-Baptiste Emile Dropsy. The front cover shows a bare-shouldered woman wearing a diamond necklace and hair ornament feeding a diamond seed to a bird in mid-flight, all surrounded by a bough of chestnut leaves. The diamond accents (“habillé”) add a bit of sparkle to the design. The bird appears to be a dove, representative of “love” in Victorian symbology, while the chestnut leaves represent the sentiment “do me justice.” Taken together, the message means some along the lines of wishfulness for being treated well in love. Dropsy was an early Art Nouveau designer and his female designs tend to be a bit more teasing Gibson Girl than the more overtly sexy nudes that came along a decade or so later. The back cover is decorated with a curved spray of roses complete with thorns. Roses were also used to symbolize love, and when thorns are present, sometimes hinted that love is not without occasional pain. The interior of the locket retains its original frames and mirrored glass, which could be replaced with photos if desired. The locket is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1895
• Condition: excellent, all original, a small ding on the back cover visible in strong raking light
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1-1/8”
• Weight: 11.9 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 carat

A classic mid-century silver pendant or charm representing the Zodiac sign Libra (“la Balance”). A detailed scale appears over a stippled background and is accompanied by the classic iconographical symbol for balance. The pendant is stamped with French second-standard (800/1000 pure) silver hallmarks in use before 1962 and an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 13/16” diameter excluding bail and jump ring
• Weight: 3.8 grams

A classic modernist silver pendant or charm representing the Zodiac sign Aquarius (“le Verseau”). A long-haired maiden pours water from a large ewer. The design is worked with a semi-matte finish and is enclosed in a highly-polished frame. The pendant retains its original jump ring. The pendant is stamped with French second-standard (800/1000 pure) silver hallmarks in use before 1962 and an unidentified maker’s mark (A cross P).

• Origin: France, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 25/32” x 25/32” (20 x 20 mm) excluding bail and jump ring
• Weight: 4.6 grams

An Art Deco pendant or charm displaying four playing cards each with the pip for an ace worked in black or red enamel. Four aces is an unbeatable hand in poker unless an opponent has a flush. The bottom edge of the charm is engraved “Réussité” (“Success”). The charm and the original jump ring are stamped with French 18K guarantee marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1/2" x 11/16” excluding jump ring
• Weight: 2.2 grams

A stunning mid-century 18K yellow gold strap (or buckle or jarretière) bracelet enhanced with diamonds set in platinum by the Parisian jeweler Sabban & Azoulay. The strap is worked in an ornately constructed open weave design called “maille polonaise” or “Polish mesh” and is finished in a contrasting braided pattern. The strap ends with a row of graduated diamonds mounted in a v-shaped platinum setting finished with foxtail fringe. The clasp features two swirled gold clips, each with a triple row of diamond set in platinum. Unlike most strap bracelets, this example is constructed without closure holes so it is highly customizable to any wrist size. The diamonds are I color and VS1 clarity. The bracelet is stamped with the master goldsmith’s mark for Sabban & Azoulay and with 18K and platinum marks.

• Origin: France, 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: strap width, 1-1/16”; clasp width, 1-5/8”; length excluding fringe, 9-1/4”; length including fringe, 10-1/4”
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.0 carats
Weight: 97.4 grams

A heavy French 18K gold and diamond pendant depicting a mythological griffin. The creature has the body of a lion and the head and wings of an eagle. His open jaws clasp an old mine cut diamond. The diamond is graded as G color, SI1 clarity. Griffins in brooches are often shown in a crouching position, but in this example, the creature is standing upright in a more assertive pose. The piece can be worn as a brooch or as a pendant suspended from the loops at the wing tips. The pendant is stamped with French 18K guarantee marks and with the master goldsmith’s mark “Vve G” for “widow Godivier.” In rare instances, more enterprising French women were able to successfully assume control of the family business after their husbands had died.

• Origin: France, ca. 1904-1911
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 1-3/8”
• Weight: 15.1 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .21 carat

An attractive 18K gold and green chalcedony band. The carved chalcedony band is enclosed by gold on each side and is adorned with a gold crossband at the front. The ring is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca 1970
• Condition: very good, minor wear to the back side of the gold band
• Finger Size: 6-1/4
• Width: 3/16”
• Weight: 2.1 grams

A stunning early Victorian snake necklace in 18K gold. The body is worked in a graduated series of scaled links terminating in an ornate emerald- and garnet-set head suspending an emerald-set foliate drop. The construction of the snake’s body is very flexible and feels silky like a true snake. The ornate head with repoussé and chased decoration is more fanciful and resembles a Chinese dragon. The eyes are set with bright garnet cabochons and the head features a row of collet-set emerald cut emeralds. The stones have fine bluish green coloring. The head suspends a drop in the form of leafy twigs set with additional emeralds. A box clasp is cleverly hidden in the head for a seamless appearance when being worn. Following Prince Albert’s proposal to Queen Victoria with a snake ring in 1839, a snake grasping its own tail came to represent the seamlessness or eternity of love and became wildly popular in jewelry. The necklace is presented in its original burgundy velvet, silk and leather fitted case. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: England, ca 1840
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: overall length, 19-1/4”; length when clasped, 16-1/2”; drop length, 1-1/4”
• Weight: 32.5 grams
• Approximate Total Emerald Weight: 3.77 carats

A delightful composition Easter rabbit figurine from the 1920s. The dapper figure is shown in a walking pose while wearing yellow shoes, a bright red jacket and a white waistcoat. He carries a spun cotton carrot over his shoulder. The bottom is stamped “Japan.”

• Origin, Japan, ca 1925
• Condition: excellent, a smattering of extremely tiny paint nicks
• Dimensions: 3-1/8” tall

The second figure is a happy Easter white rabbit nodder wearing a red jacket with a blue collar. The face and insides of the ears are painted in bright pink. The nodder mechanism allows the head to turn and jiggle slightly.

• Origin: Japan, ca. 1925
• Condition: excellent, a few minor paint scuffs along the ends
• Dimensions: 2-7/8” tall

A colorful green and white bakelite die holds a set of six chrome and bakelite dice picks in this Art Deco set. The cocktail pick holder (“porte-piques”) was once a fixture of every French bar or café. Today they can be used to spear cocktail olives, cherries or onions, or to serve small hors d’oeuvres.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930
• Condition: very good, the white pick is likely an early replacement
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-3/8” x 4"

A very nice and heavy vintage Italian crown-shaped charm or pendant worked in 18K yellow gold and set with citrines and pearls. The gold surfaces are enhanced with rope twist and beaded appliques and wire brushing. The citrines have particularly rich color trending away from yellow and more toward the deep amber shade of cognac. The pearls have nice luster. The bail is stamped with Italian 18K gold hallmarks and French 18K gold import marks.

• Origin: Italy, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1” x 1-1/4” (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Citrine Weight: 30.4 carats
• Weight: 24.0 grams

A pretty Georgian heart pendant worked in 18K yellow gold and featuring a double-cut citrine heart. The gold surfaces are decorated in a repousse floral motif. The citrine is cut with lapidary facets on both sides it looks the same from the back or front. The stone has very pleasant pale yellow coloring. The jump ring is original to the pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: England, ca 1820
• Condition: excellent, very light wear on some of the citrine’s facet junctions visible upon close inspection
• Dimension: 1-1/16” x 1-3/4” (including jump ring)
• Approximate Citrine Weight: 17.4 carats
• Weight: 13.7 grams