Catalog (2481)

A lovely and heavy vintage Venetian Etruscan 18K yellow gold charm in the form of a treasure chest. The surfaces are heavily decorated with beading and ropetwist tracery surrounding collet-set pearls. The chest's lid is hinged and operational. Fully hallmarked for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/16" x 1" x 1" (excluding bail). Weight: 17.1 grams.

A fine pair of French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the form of sinuously curved griffins. Mythological creatures such as griffins and dragons were a particularly popular subject matter for French jewelers of the era. The creatures are finely worked with excellent detail to the scales and other features. The chain connectors are fully hallmarked with French 18K hallmarks and with an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16" x 7/16". Weight: 9.5 grams.

A lovely silver, plique-a-jour enamel, mother-of-pearl, and paste pendant in the German Art Jugendstil or Nouveau taste. The pendant is worked with very attractive enameled cells in shades of teal, cream and rose. German Art Nouveau pieces from the Pforzheim school tend to be more linear and symmetrical than those from France, and this piece is a classic example. The use of a collet-set mother-of-pearl oval is the center position is very typical of the work of Otto Prutscher, the leading German Art Nouveau jewelry designer. The back is marked "Depose 900" and is signed "HS" or "SH".

Origin: Germany, ca. 1900. Condition: appears to be converted from a brooch; no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/8" x 1"; chain 16-1/2" long. Weight: 6.3 gr.

A very handsome pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces fashioned as greyhounds' heads shown in profile. Each dog's head is nicely detailed with fur and a leather collar. The faces are connected to torpedo backs with chains. One cufflink is signed "A. Pospisil". Tested and guaranteed at least 18K, and more likely in the 19-20K range.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Size: 9/16" x 3/8". Weight: 5.7 gr.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks worked in the Etruscan Revival style with applied bead rosettes. The spherical faces are attached by chains to baton backs, also decorated with applied bead rosettes. The gold surfaces have a slight matte finish. The cufflinks are hallmarked with the French “hibou” import mark.

Ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, each sphere has an intentional vent hole and one sphere has a second small hole original to the casting; neither the vents nor the extra hole are distracting. Size: spheres, 7/16” diameter; batons, 3/16” x 15/16”. Weight: 5.0 grams.

A stunning Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pansy pin enameled in rich shades of dark plum, violet, cream and saffron. The jeweler used a matte enamel to suggest the velvety texture of pansy petals. The flower is centered with a prong-set round cut diamond that adds a nice sparkle against the matte enamel. The back of the pin is marked for 14K and also has a maker's mark that we've not seen before. The pansy is most definitely a Newark or New York piece and is very similar to pansies by Hedges and Larter. Unlike most other pansies, the pin has rather substantial weight. The pansy was a popular flower for jewelry and in the Victorian language of flowers, it signified remembrance.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4". Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Diamond Weight: .09 ct.

A stunning French 18K yellow gold and diamond pansy brooch in the Art Nouveau taste. The petals are beautifully decorated in translucent enamels shading from silvery white to cream to rose. The outer ruffled edge of each petal is outlined in small rose cut diamonds. The pansy is centered by a larger rose cut diamond of unusually good color and clarity. As is typical of 19th century French jewels, the diamonds are set in silver. Each petal is cast separately and then attached to the others with a screw mechanism. The back has a replaced pinstem and clasp. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, one 1/8" area of flaking enamel visible under magnification. Size: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4". Weight: 18.1 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.385 cts.

A phenomenal Edwardian platinum and 18K gold brooch/pendant in the form of a caduceus set with 160 old European and old mine cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.90 carats. The principal stone is a square cushion cut, weighs approximately .28 ct, and is F color, VVS2 clarity. The smaller diamonds range F-I color, VS2 to I1 clarity. The diamonds are set in platinum over 18K yellow gold in the traditional French manner. The mounting is of the finest quality, with superb hand-sawn piercing and millegraining. This quality is further reflected in that the tiny portion of the bail that can be seen from the front when worn as a pendant is worked in platinum rather than gold like the remainder of the bail and the pinstem. The staff terminates at the top and bottom with a lustrous, slightly oval natural pearl.

The back of the piece has a pinstem that can be unscrewed and removed for wear as a pendant with the folding bail. The shape of the bail suggests that there was probably an optional comb fitting so that the piece could be worn as a hair ornament. The very finest quality and most expensive jewels of the era sometimes had various fittings so the owner could get as much use from a piece as possible.

The caduceus is the herald's wand carried by the Greek messenger god Hermes (and his Roman counterpart Mercury). It is sometimes topped with spread wings echoing the god's winged sandals. In contemporary usage it is the symbol of the medical profession. This linkage likely stems from the myth of the god Apollo sending Hermes to deliver his half-mortal son Aesculapius from the body of his dead mortal mother as her body was consumed by the fire of her funeral pyre. Aesculapius went on to become a healer and founded the cult of which Hippocrates, the founder of western medicine, was a follower.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-3/8" x 2-3/8". Weight: 12.7 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.90 cts.

An exquisite Edwardian pendant and brooch featuring a large oval rubellite (pinkish-red tourmaline) cabochon surrounded by old European cut diamonds mounted in elegant buttercup settings. The diamond flower buds are mounted in an intricately interlaced knife-edge platinum setting. The back has a removable mounting so the piece can be worn as either a brooch or a pendant. Removable mountings of this type are very complex and appear on only the finest pieces from the period. The rubellite has fine color. Rubellites are usually very included, but this stone has far better clarity than most, graded as Type III slightly included. The diamonds range I-J in color and SI1-SI2 in clarity. Tested and guaranteed platinum.

Origin: probably France, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.6 cts; rubellite, 5.08 cts.

A very attractive pair of late Arts & Crafts or early Art Deco silver cufflinks by Saethers Gull og Solvvarefabrikk, a Norwegian silversmith known for inventive designs. One face of each cufflink is hinged for ease in putting through the cuff. The connectors are fully hallmarked.

Origin: Norway, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 27/32” x 1/2. Weight: 15.5 grams.

An outstanding Restoration period French silver wine taster in the 18th century style typical of Lyon. With the restoration of the Bourbon monarchy, many old styles from the ancien regime once again came into fashion, and this tastevin, building on decorative elements typical of the 1770's, is a perfect example. Tastevins with snake-form handles were particularly popular. Those with a pair of snake heads that somewhat resemble bird's heads flanking a sphere are typical of silver from Lyon. The punchwork decoration of grape clusters surrounded the bowl is also a typical 18th century design. The tastevin is completely handmade and was raised on a lathe in the traditional method, as is evidenced by the pinprick in the middle of the bowl and the remnants of hammer marks. The outer rim is engraved "F. Porcheret-Billard". Stamped with 2nd standard "tete de Minverve" hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1840. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 3-1/2" diameter, excluding handle. Weight: 113.4 grams.

A phenomenal Edwardian platinum, diamond and amethyst bow brooch by Cartier. Four tromp l'oeil amethyst loops, each surrounded in old European cut diamonds, flank a center 1.08 carat, J/K, VS2 old European cut diamond.

Each of the double loops of the bow appears to be set with two amethysts, but there is in fact only one amethyst on each side. The gemstones are precision-cut to fit perfectly into the platinum setting and give the appearance of being four stones. The amethysts are graded as medium, moderately strong Purple (P5/4) in color, with eye-clean clarity. This is the color and intensity sometimes termed "Siberian".

The 104 old mine cut and rose cut diamonds along the platinum borders total approximately 2.94 carats range from VS2 to SI2 clarity and H-J color.

The platinum setting is beautifully crafted, with a pierced gallery and engraved details around the collet setting of the center stone.

The brooch is hallmarked with the extremely rare master goldsmith's mark used by Cartier for only a three-year period, 1919-1922.

Origin: Paris, France, 1919-1922. Condition: very good, there is a small chip on the inside edge of each amethyst near the junction with the center diamond, visible upon very close inspection in strong raking light (one visible only from the reverse). Size: 3" x 27/32". Weight: 18.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 22.68 carats; diamond, 4.02 carats.

A very rare pair of heavy 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. designed as coiled dolphin-like sea monsters. The scales are highlighted with translucent blue champleve enamel and the eyes are set with cabochon rubies. The cufflinks are hinged and clasp together by inserting the creature's tail into its own jaws. The interior of each cufflink is marked "Tiffany 18K". There is no designer mark, but the work is very similar in style, quality and aesthetic to the designs created by Jean Schlumberger and Donald Claflin in the 1960s.

Origin: America, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent, a 1/32" nick to the enamel on one cufflink. Size: 1" x 1-18". Weight: 21.6 grams.

A very good pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each face in the form of an owl's head complete with bright ruby eyes. The gold is finely detailed and the rubies are natural and of high quality. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 6.7 grams.

A fine 1930's 14K yellow gold Art Deco mechanical wristwatch by by Hy Moser & Cie, and retailed by Tiffany & Co. Moser was the most important watchmaker in Imperial Russia, selling many of his goods to the Imperial family and courtiers. After the Revolution, the company was relocated to Switzerland and continued to provide movements to luxury retailers such as Tiffany.

The rectangular gold case has elegant flaring lugs at each corner. The face is in a matte ivory finish and studded with round diamonds at the 12, 3 and 9 positions. The face is completed with a sweep-second dial in the lower portion and is signed "Tiffany & Co." at the top. The 17-jewel movement is nicely decorated with guilloche engraving and is signed "Hy Moser & Co.". The inside back of the case is signed "Lapwell 14K". The leather strap and clasp are replacements.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: very good, working condition. Size: case, 1-7/16" x 1-1/8"; lug space, 23/32".

An exceptionally rare and fine 18th century 15K yellow gold mourning ring, the crown comprising a very large verre eglomise panel with a black silhouette of a gentleman against a silvered background. The lace and brocade collar is exquisitely detailed. The edges of the panel are finished with bright-cut engraving, a design repeated at the top edges of the shank. The back of the glass panel is curved for comfort when being worn. Everything about the ring is of the finest quality. Its size and graphic appeal make a statement. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

Origin: England, ca. 1780. Condition: excellent, no damage to glass panel. Size: 1-5/16" x 13/16". Finger Size: 9-3/4.

A finely detailed cast bronze jewel box, the cover decorated with a scene of Don Quixote astride his horse followed by his loyal Sancho Panza on his donkey. The end panels feature bas relief images of Cervantes flanked by cherubs, and the back panel a bas relief of Don Quixote wearing an armored helmet. Cherubs and dolphins decorate the front. The interior is lined in a bright red velvet. The box retains its original key and the lock is in working order. Bronze boxes of this sort were often purchased as souvenirs of the European "Grand Tour". Often, they represent important architectural or artistic monuments or are related to great cultural figures such as Cervantes. The bottom is marked "Made In Spain" to accommodate British import regulations beginning in 1887.

Origin: Spain, ca. 1890. Size: 6-9/16" x 3-11/16" x 2-5/8". Condition: excellent.

A very rare set of six sterling silver demitasse spoons in the "Holly & Mistletoe" pattern by Tiffany & Co. This is a more ornate variant of the company's more common "Holly" pattern. The handles are decorated on both sides with holly and mistletoe foliage and mistletoe berries. The elongated bowls have notched shoulders and are parcel-gilt. The spoons are fully hallmarked and have the date letter used 1873-91. The spoons are presented in an old Tiffany flatware bag.

Origin: America, 1873-91. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, original gilding intact. Size: 4-1/8" long. Weight: 86.6 grams.

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks designed by Soren Georg Jensen for the firm founded by his father, Georg Jensen. Designed in 1962, during his first year as the firm's artistic director, these cufflinks are a clear example of the stripped-down, modernist sculptural direction the younger Jensen wanted to pursue. Jensen's gold jewelry is considerably rarer than silver, and was often retailed by Jensen at ten times the price of the same design in silver. The cufflinks are appropriately hallmarked and have the design number "1091".

Origin: Denmark, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, no monogram. Size: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 17.4 grams.

A stunning pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by one of Italy's greatest 20th century jewelry artists, Nino D'Antonio Germano. Germano was born into an important family of Roman jewelers in 1926 and came of age during World War II. He was inspired by designs from antiquity, and his pieces often feature ancient Greek, Roman and Etruscan grotesques, masks and other elements. He was principally a sculptor, but made a very small amount of jewelry using the lost wax method of casting. This process is self-destructive and assures that every piece is nearly unique. Original pencil sketches of his jewelry designs are included in the artist's catalogue raisonne "Nino D'Antonio Germano Studio Catalogue Book" (transl, S. Brecker). The quality of the design and its execution is first-rate. The gold surfaces are acid washed to achieve the softly bloomed texture found in ancient jewels. The backs are signed "Germano" and are marked "750" for 18K gold.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960s. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" diameter. Weight: 11.8 grams.

A superb Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with a scene depicting a maiden in flowing drapery amidst a rose garden with Classical ruins in the background. A cherub reaches down to touch her shoulder. The upper edge is set with a fine 5-pt ruby of slightly purplish-red color. Locket designs of this complexity are quite uncommon. The back cover is engraved "Aunt Dora to Dora 1906". The interior is marked "14K".

Origin: America, 1906. Condition: excellent, one pinpoint ding on back cover. Size: 1-3/16" diameter. Weight: 9.4 grams.

A beautiful 18K yellow gold bracelet featuring alternating flexible links set with cabochon blue sapphires and round brilliant cut diamonds. The collet-set sapphires, graded as medium-dark blue in color, have good clarity and show no signs of heat or other treatment. The diamonds, graded as SI2 clarity and J/K color, are bead-set in white gold. Tool marks on the reverse indicate that the bracelet is handmade. The box clasp is concealed under one of the sapphire links. Marked "18K" and with a serial number and unknown maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/32" wide; 7-1/4" long. Weight: 33.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 25.84 carats; diamond, .54 carat.

A fine 18K yellow gold Victorian bracelet in the Etruscan Revival taste. The bracelet comprises ten 7-mm gold beads ornately decorated in twisted wire- and bead-work. Two 8.5-mm beads flank the clasp. The beads are joined by trace link chains, the larger beads being separated at a greater distance from the others. The placement of the hallmarks on the chain segments indicates this is the original design of the bracelet and that it has not been altered. French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/2". Weight: 6.5 grams.

A delightful pair of Victorian 10K yellow gold cufflinks, each in the form of a canoe. The bow of each is set with a 4-pt old mine cut diamond (I1 clarity/K color). The canoes are fully three-dimensional and each has three seats in the interior. Marked "10K".

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" x 1/4". Weight: 5.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A stunning pair of platinum and 18K yellow gold earrings set with diamonds and rubies by Tiffany & Co. Each earring features four marquise cut diamonds set in the traditional “Victoria” crossed pattern, suspending a prong-set round mixed-cut ruby. The diamonds are set in platinum, while the rubies are set in 18K yellow gold, as tradition dictates. The diamonds are F color and VVS2 clarity. The rubies, of equally superb quality, are graded as medium vivid red color (R 5/6), excellent cut, and Type II eye-clean clarity. The quality of the rubies suggests they are Burmese in origin. Tiffany has not sold Burmese gems since 2003, so earrings such as these cannot be replaced. The posts are marked “T&Co PT950”. Victoria earrings, set only with diamonds, are currently available at Tiffany for $4650 (.72 ct) and $6500 (1.28 ct).

Origin: America, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/32” x 5/16”. Weight: 3.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .98 ct; ruby, .88 ct.

An outstanding pair of vintage earrings in 18K yellow gold set with diamonds by Tiffany & Co. The oval shape is formed of reeded bars interspersed with prong-set round brilliant cut diamonds, creating a basketweave texture. The diamonds are graded as F color, VS1 clarity, and excellent cut. Each earring is marked “1992 Tiffany & Co. 750”.

Origin: America, ca. 1992. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 3/4”. Weight: 21.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.25 cts.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching ring as Item #831151.

A delightful vintage 14K yellow gold disc charm or pendant by Tiffany & Co. The center features an intricately cast "Tree of Life" bedecked with gemstone flowers. Starting with the diamond and spiraling outward in a counterclockwise direction, the first letter of each gemstone’s name—Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire and Topaz—spells “DEAREST”. The tree is enclosed in an open twist border, in turn enclosed in a broad “pleated” border. The back is marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Acrostic jewelry spelling out such sentiments was very popular in the Victorian era. The gemstones are 19th century antique cuts and Tiffany apparently custom-set them in this piece at a client’s request. The nature of the clarity characteristics suggests that the ruby is Burmese in origin, while the sapphire is Kashmir. Neither shows evidence of treatment, nor are the emeralds filled. The “Tree of Life” pattern was often set with birthstones representing the owner’s children or grandchildren, but the acrostic “DEAREST” is most unusual.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-5/8” diameter. Weight: 17.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .35 ct.

An outstanding 14K yellow gold dachshund angel pin by famed Beverly Hills jewelry designer, William Ruser. The dog, shown sitting up in a begging position, is beautifully detailed. His eyes are set with tiny rubies and he wears a halo of seed pearls. The dog-angel’s wings are made from natural freshwater pearls, as are the clouds on which he floats. The back is signed and is marked “14K”.

Ruser, the personal jeweler to Hollywood’s elite such as Loretta Young and Joan Crawford, created a number of pieces featuring dogs, but they are almost always poodles. Sometimes, the animals are shown as angels. These probably were created to order to memorialize favorite pets. Joan Crawford often wore a set of poodle pins. Ruser remained one of Beverly Hills’ most exclusive jewelers until the late 1960s when he sold his Rodeo Drive boutique to Van Cleef & Arpels.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/16” x 1-7/16”. Weight: 13.7 gr.

An exceptional and extremely rare 14K yellow gold, amethyst and pearl ring by Edward Everett Oakes. The crown is fashioned as a cluster of oak leaves and acorns surrounding two round amethysts and two half-pearls in collet settings. The amethysts are graded as medium-dark strong purple (P 6/6); with excellent cut and Type I eye-clean clarity. The pearls have nice luster and creamy body color.

Edward Everette Oakes (1891-1960) was perhaps the foremost Arts & Crafts jeweler in America. He was a member (and medallist) of the Boston Arts & Crafts Society, and became the first living artist to have a work acquired for the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He trained with Frank Gardner Hale and worked for three years with Josephine Hartwell Shaw before opening is own studio in 1917. Oakes' work shows a certain similarity to both Hale and Shaw, but his mature style is noticeably original. Most of his pieces are unsigned, but can be identified based on their unique decorative motifs and construction techniques.

Oakes regularly visited Camp Deephaven and Camp Rockywold on Squam Lake in New Hampshire. The original owner of this ring purchased it directly from Oakes during one of her 68 consecutive annual summer stasys at the camps. The purchaser will be supplied with a copy of a letter from the original owner's niece describing her aunt's purchases.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, has been sized. Size: 3/4" wide at crown. Finger Size: 7. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.88 cts.

An exquisite platinum and diamond brooch in the form of a turtle by Tiffany & Co. In the 1990’s, Tiffany created a small line of nature-themed jewels loosely based on antique pieces in its design archives. The turtle pin was one of the most luxurious pieces in the series. The domed back is pave-set with 90 2.5-point round brilliant cut diamonds and the legs and head are set with additional 28 1.5-point diamonds. The eyes are collet-set blue sapphires. The back has a pendant hook, so it can be worn suspended from a chain. The reverse is marked “1996 Tiffany & Co. PT950”. The original selling price was $15,750.

Origin: America, ca. 1996. Condition: mint. Size: 29/32” x 1-3/8”. Weight: 14.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.67 carats.

An incredibly detailed sterling silver pin depicting a boxer dog. The workmanship is simply outstanding, with every tiny detail of the dog’s fur, wrinkles, etc. fully worked in this deeply three-dimensional brooch. The back is hallmarked “Ballou Sterling”. B. A. Ballou was founded in Providence, RI in the 1870s.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Size: 1-7/8” x 2-3/16”. Weight: 40.9 gr.

A very fine vintage 14K yellow gold three-stone ring featuring an oval mixed-cut ruby flanked by round brilliant-cut diamonds. All the stones are of very fine quality. The ruby has the pigeon's blood color found in the finest quality stones. It is graded at medium-dark, strong, slightly purplish Red (slpR 6/6); excellent cut; Type II eye-clean clarity; with no indications of heat or other treatment. Rubies of this quality are exceptionally difficult to find now. The diamonds are of similar quality, graded as VS1 and VS2 and both with VG cut. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, mid-20th century. Size: crown, 5/8 x 5/16". Finger Size: 7-1/4. Weight: 3.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.09 ct; diamond, .80 ct.

A wonderful Art Deco 14K yellow gold baton-link long chain, studded at intervals with oval moss agate cabochons. The long chain was a traditional Victorian style, but in this case was updated by replacing the usual small links with long baton-style links. The resulting linear look would have been considered much more modern and stylish. The links are interrupted by nine 7.5x9.0mm moss agate cabochons. The gemstones have very nice medium- to dark-green lacy moss-like inclusions against the colorless transparent background. Notice that the stones are set closer together toward the middle of the chain, and farther apart toward the ends. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 28” long. Weight: 18.9 grams.

A very handsome pair of double-faced late Victorian cufflinks by Newark jeweler Bippart, Griscomb & Osborn. The faces are worked in 14K yellow gold and are decorated with engine-turned engraving in several motifs. The front face on each cufflink is set with a high-domed cabochon blue sapphire. The back faces match the engraved decoration of the fronts. The connectors are hallmarked for Bippart, Griscomb and Osborn, one of the leading Newark jewelers at the turn of the century.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 11.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.1 carats.

A wonderful Art Nouveau stickpin depicting a native American warrior chief in 14K yellow gold. The man’s beautifully detailed face is surrounded by long hair and a feather war bonnet, the band centered by a small bead-set old European cut diamond. A quiver of arrows is slung across the chest. The pin is marked “14K” and has the maker’s mark for Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp details. Size: head, 11/16” x 3/8”; overall length, 2-1/2”. Weight: 1.8 grams.

A beautiful Victorian sterling silver souvenir spoon from Saratoga Springs, New York. The handle depicts a Native American Chief wearing a feathered war bonnet, his bust surrounded by ears of corn and foliage. The bowl has a design picturing a young Native American man drinking from the natural springs and bears the legend “High Rock Spring Saratoga”. The bowl retains its original gilt surface. The back of the spoon is decorated with a tomahawk, bow and quiver of arrows. The stem is marked sterling and has the hallmark for Howard (1878-1902).

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: near mint. Size: 4-3/16” long. Weight: 11.4 grams.

A stunning pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, each face comprising a large oval mixed-cut rhodolite garnet set in a foliate-engraved border. The garnets have the lovely reddish-purple hue so prized in rhodolites. The faces are connected by chains and are fully hallmarked with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent. Size: 19/32” x 7/16”. Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.36 carats.

An exceedingly rare Georgian 18K yellow gold pendant locket celebrating the first manned flight by the Montgolfier brothers from Paris in 1783. Hot air balloons were one of the scientific wonders of the late 18th century, and balloon designs were worked into furniture, textiles, clothing and jewels. This locket features a hot air balloon carved from a piece of mother of pearl and then decorated with gilding and realistic painted detail. The balloon is affixed to a pale blue silk background and enclosed behind convex glass in an 18K yellow gold frame bordered by a ropetwist motif worked in gold and natural seed pearls. The edges of the frame are further accented with a beaded ogee design and bright-cut stippling. The back of the locket, also glass covered, features a mother of pearl plaque painted with the initial "F.H.", also affixed to a blue silk background. A piece such as this would most certainly have been made-to-order, so it is not surprising that it is unmarked. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

The rarity of this pendant really cannot be overstated. Very little late 18th century French jewelry survived the Revolution and pieces with a Montgolfier theme are exceptional.

Origin: probably France, ca. 1785. Condition: excellent; a small piece of the balloon carving has become dislodged (probably from the top finial of the balloon) and slipped toward the bottom of the frame (the frame could be opened the the loosened piece reattached). Size: 1-7/8" x 1-5/8".

A lovely vintage aquamarine in diamond ring set in 14K white gold. The ring features a fine 21.74-carat oval mixed cut aquamarine flanked by a pair of .136-carat round brilliant cut diamonds. The split shank holds the aquamarine high above the side diamonds in a cage setting. The aquamarine is graded as light, very slightly grayish, slightly greenish-blue (slgB3/3) in color; good cut, and Type I eye-clean clarity. The aquarmarine is quite large, but its light tone and color saturation gives the ring a lighter feel than it might have with a darker stone. The diamonds are both I color and good cut, one with SI1 clarity, and the other with VS2 clarity. The interior of the shank is marked “14K”.

America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: crown, 7/8” x 15/16”. Finger Size: 6. Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 21.74 carats; diamond, .27 carat.

A superb Art Deco platinum ring set with a cat’s-eye chrysoberyl cabochon flanked at each shoulder by a row of square step-cut diamonds. The chrysoberyl is of the finest quality, with a strong well-centered white eye against a strongly greenish-yellow background—precisely the combination that yields the desirable “milk and honey” effect. The cabochon is nicely cut and has very good symmetry. The diamonds are of exceptional quality, with D/E color and VS2 to SI1 clarity. The platinum mounting has a matte finish that nicely accents the stones. The interior of the shank is marked “Irid Plat”.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: crown, 9/16” wide. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: chrysoberyl, 4.00 cts; diamond, .468 ct.

A superb pair of late Victorian 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, each face set with a carnelian cabochon. The settings are in a style combining both Aesthetic and Architectural Revival elements. The gold surfaces, worked in the matte Russian finish often seen in Art Nouveau jewels, contrasts beautifully with the rich rust colors of the carnelians. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 9.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.0 carats.

An exceptional pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks by Carrington. Each of the cufflinks features one face centered with an old European cut diamond and on face with a round cut blue sapphire. The stones are surrounded by a band of opaque royal blue champlevé enamel enclosed within a laurel wreath border. This design is really one of the most elegantly sophisticated we’ve seen any of the classic Newark makers. The gemstones are of very good color and clarity. The backs are marked 14K and have Carrington’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 19/32” diameter. Weight: 9.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .18 carat; sapphire, .23 carat.

A handsome pair of reversible heavy 18K yellow gold flip-up cufflinks. One side of each end is finished smooth, while the reverse side is engraved in a zigzag pattern. The flip-up style was popularized by Cartier in the 1930s and continued to be popular in France through the mid-century. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked with the “tete d’aigle” stamp for 18K gold and with an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 1/2” x 1/2”. Weight: 11.6 grams.

A very attractive pair of Napoleon III 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the canted square faces studded with round mixed-cut rubies and old mine cut diamonds. The rubies are in the finest color-range, with strongly saturated, very slightly purplish-red hue. The nature of the inclusions in the stones suggests they are Burmese in origin. The diamonds are of similarly fine quality. The gold surface has a very subtle texturizing treatment that suggests moiré silk. The connectors are marked with a variety of French 18K hallmarks, including that of the guarantee office in Nancy and the “tete de Mercure” mark used 1840-1879.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent. Size: 1/2” x 1/2”. Weight: 10.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .128 ct; diamond, .112 ct.

A beautiful pair of heavy 14K yellow gold and platinum cufflinks by Larter, each face featuring a bezel-set old European cut diamond. The faces are worked with engine-turned engraving in a complex sunburst and floral pattern, while the platinum borders are engraved in a beaded pattern against a stippled background. Even the hinged bridge connectors are beautifully engraved. The diamonds are of nice quality and good color. The backs are stamped with Larter’s hallmark and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 11.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .392 carat.

A very attractive pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks finished in the softly bloomed “Russian” finish popular in pieces from the Art Nouveau era. The oval faces are simply finished with a beaded border and are star-set with small round brilliant cut rhodolite garnets. The stones have a very pleasing strongly purplish-red hue, easily mistaken for ruby. The backs are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” x 9/16”. Weight: 6.8 grams.

A beautiful French silver-topped 18K yellow gold floral pin from the era of Emperor Napoleon III. The pin is designed as a spray of three flower buds, each just about to open into a different color. The flowers are bead-set with rose cut diamonds, and the colors are represented by rows of cushion and round cut sapphires, rubies and emeralds. Each bud is centered by a larger rectangular cushion cut diamond set in prongs. A pair of diamond-set leaves and a small diamond-set bud appear below. The bottom of the sprig is also bead-set with diamonds. The top surfaces of the gold are covered in silver to heighten the appeal of the diamonds, in keeping with the mid-19th century practice. Realistic floral spray jewelry became very popular because of the extraordinary pieces commissioned by the Empress Eugenie from Bapst. The back retains the original c-clasp and extended pinstem (stamped with the French “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold).

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/4” x 1-3/16”. Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .981 carat; sapphire, .126 carat; ruby, .147 carat; emerald, .085 carat.

A nice pair of oval-faced cufflinks worked in platinum over 18K gold, each face set with a 4-pt single-cut diamond and a 4-pt square step cut blue sapphire. The stones are set on the bias and are highlighted with raised platinum bars that are slightly polished to contrast with the matte finish of the surround platinum background. The faces are connected by chains to gold torpedo backs. Tested and guaranteed platinum and 18K.

Origin: probably continental Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original, one of the torpedo backs has a small ding on the side. Size: 5/8” x 15/32”. Weight: 4.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .08 carat; sapphire, .08 carat.

A handsome pair of sterling silver cufflinks by Georg Jensen. The rectangular faces are severely designed in the Art Deco style, with only a series of parallel raised bands as decoration. The solid connectors are attached to hinged oval backs. The cufflinks are marked with the pattern number 80 and bear post-1945 Jensen hallmarks.

Origin: Denmark, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/16" x 3/8". Weight: 15.6 grams.

A beautiful early Edwardian hair or photo locket, the front worked in a bright pink transparent guilloche enamel over an engraved sunburst background. The enamel is centered by a lustrous natural pearl set in a reeded collet. The back of the locket features a glass window enclosing a space for a small portrait or lock of hair. The space is lined in ivory silk. Tested and guaranteed 10K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, original glass cover. Size: 1” diameter, excluding bale and jump ring. Weight: 7.4 grams.

A lovely pair of imperial Russian spoons, the backs of the bowls decorated with finely engraved scenes depicting portions of the Arsenal and the State Historical Museum on Moscow’s Red Square. The handles are finished in the traditional twist motif. The surfaces are gilt, and the engraving is worked through the gilding in some areas and more lightly in others, allowing a nice contrast of colors within the design. Each is fully hallmarked for Moscow, dated 1889 and with the maker’s mark for Ivan Alexeyev (1876-1912).

Origin: Moscow, 1889. Condition: excellent, gilding intact. Size: 5” long. Weight: 27.2 grams (the pair).

A fine pair of French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the double faces in the form of snarling mythological griffins. The details are beautifully worked. Mythological beasts such as griffins, dragons and sphinxes were especially popular in Art Nouveau jewels by French makers. Each cufflink has one face that is smaller than the other so that it can more easily be slipped through the cuff hole. Each cufflink is hallmarked with the French “tete d’aigle”stamp for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: full faces, 17/32” diameter; smaller faces, 17/32” x 7/16”. Weight: 8.0 grams.

A very nice Imperial Russian enameled silver spoon by Gustav Klingert. The bowl is beautifully decorated in five shades of opaque cloisonné enamels and in translucent red and amethyst. The design I modified floral pattern with a Persian-style reserve. The handle is finished in a fish-scale enameled pattern. Exposed areas of silver are stippled and gilt. The interior of the bowl is engraved “Moscow”, indicating that the spoon was sold as a souvenir to an American or English visitor. The handle is fully hallmarked with the city mark for Moscow and Klingert’s maker’s mark. The date mark is obscured, but the assay master Lev Oleks was active only between 1890 and 1896.

Origin: Moscow, 1890-96. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, gilding intact. Size: 4-7/32” long. Weight: 15.9 grams.

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold “Sputnik” earrings by H. Stern. This classic design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, almandite garnet, aquamarine, amethyst and citrine. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination of gemstones used and even how they are arranged in relation to one another. This pair of earrings has brightly-colored stones in a very pleasing arrangement. Sputnik jewelry was created by H. Stern, Brazil’s largest dealer in colored gemstones, and was quite popular in the early years of the space race because of its perceived resemblance to the famed Soviet satellite. The earrings originally had posts which have been removed, leaving only the clips. Posts could be added again quite easily. The backs are signed by Stern and are marked “750” and “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/16” diameter. Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 12.37 carats (tourmaline, 4.25 cts; almandite garnet 2.87 cts; citrine, 2.75 cts; aquamarine, 1.40 cts; amethyst, 1.10 cts).

A nice pair of Edwardian doubled-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces decorated in a combination of matte reserves flanked by polished foliate plaques. The design hints are the arrival of Art Deco. The “bowtie” connectors are decorated, as well, and are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 5/8” x 7/16”. Weight: 7.3 grams.

A wonderfully witty 14K gold tie bar in the form of a snow ski by Tiffany & Co. As expected of a mid-century Tiffany design, the workmanship is very finely detailed and executed right down to the details of the bindings. The back is engraved with a period three-letter monogram “WLT” and is also marked “14K Tiffany & Co.”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 2-11/16” x 5/16” (front width). Weight: 6.2 grams.

A nice pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in the form of horse stirrups. The toggle backs are marked “585” and “Germany 14Kt” and have the maker’s mark “MV”.

Origin: Germany, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” x 5/8”. Weight: 9.0 grams.

A very heavy 14K yellow gold tie bar set with a blue sapphire by Tiffany & Co. The classic design features engraved lines arranged in a sunburst pattern emanating from the gypsy-set sapphire at one end. The sapphire is graded as medium strong very slightly breenish blue (vslgB 5/5), very good cut and Type II eye-clean clarity. The back is marked by Tiffany & Co. and also “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-1/16” x 3/8”. Weight: 7.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .221 carat.

NOTE: We are offering a matching pair of cufflinks as Item #1001372.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. Each rectangular face is bead-set at one end with a round brilliant cut blue sapphire. Engraved lines emanate from the gemstones in a sunburst pattern. The sapphires are a medium dark strongly saturated blue in color and contrast nicely with the bright gold. The backs are marked “14K” and “Tiffany & Co.”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 23/32” x 1/2”. Weight: 17.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .40 carat.

NOTE: We are offering a matching tie bar as Item #1001380.

An outstanding Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated in with an ornate pond scene incorporating rippling water, waterlilies and cattails under the watchful eye of the “man in the moon” and seed pearl stars. The scene is very original and is beautifully worked. The back cover has a period three-letter monogram “GEG”. The interior retains both original frames and one of the glass covers. Marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no dings. Size: 1-1/16” diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 7.9 grams.