Catalog (2481)

A fascinating 18K yellow gold cocktail ring featuring a "forma livre" (free-form) amethyst by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre stones in 1948, and the style became his signature. The amethyst chosen for this ring has distinct color zoning that creates an interesting interplay of deep and light purple coloring. The setting is finished in the florentine style typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior is stamped "750" for 18K. The ring is unsigned, but is definitely by Burle Marx.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of Indian. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Brazil, ca 1965
• Very good condition; very light wear consistent with age to the stone visible under 10x magnification
• Crown Dimensions: 1-3/16 long; 7/8" wide; 3/4" high.
• Shank tapers to 1/4" at the back
Finger Size: 5-1/4
• Weight: 23.4 grams.

A classic pair of Edwardian almandite garnet cufflinks, the oval gemstones set simply in 18K yellow gold collet settings. The faces are attached by chains to torpedo backs. The garnets are of nice quality, having a slightly more orange coloring than is typical of almandite--nearly in the color range for spessartite garnet. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 5/8" x 5/16". Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.78 carats.

A striking Retro floral pendant worked in 18K yellow and rose gold and platinum, set with diamonds, amethysts and synthetic rubies. The pendant is designed as a large flower blossom with diamond encrusted petals surrounded ruby stamens. A spike of purple flowers is suggested by the oval brilliant cut amethysts to one side. The gemstones are of good quality with strongly saturated coloring and good clarity. The rubies are synthetic as is expected of pieces from the Retro period. The use of platinum suggests that the pendant falls toward the beginning of the Retro period, in the late 1930s. The pendant was originally a brooch. The pin has been removed and a 14K gold bail added. The clasp is hinged, so that the pendant can be worn from a thick gold chain or a strand of pearls. Marked 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1938
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions (excluding bail): 1-5/8 x 1-15/16 in (41 x 50 mm)
• Weight: 14.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .83 carat ruby, .60 carat; amethyst, 2.40 carats

Breathtaking French 18K gold, silver, diamond and pink tourmaline brooch from the reign of the Emperor Napoleon III. The brooch is formed as a naturalistic swirl of leaves, set throughout with rose-cut diamonds. The design features three large old mine-cut diamonds, each a bit larger than 1/2 carat. The center stone is prong-set while the outer stones are collet-set. The old European cut diamonds are scattered along an unusual knife-edge setting at the top of the brooch. The gold setting is topped with silver in the traditional style of 19th century French jewels. The brooch suspends a collet-set oval pink tourmaline cabochon topped with a collet-set old European-cut diamond. The diamonds used in the period, as would be expected of such a significant piece. The color is a very bright white and the clarity is quite good for the period. The tourmaline is a soft pink shade with just a tinge of violet. The brooch retains the original extended pinstema and c-clasp, both of which are stamped with French 18K marks and the mark of an unidentified jeweler (AH).

Origin: Paris, ca. 1855. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/8" x 1-19/32". Weight: 11.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.6 carats; tourmaline, 1.5 carats.

A beautiful pair of 18K yellow gold and diamond earrings by Gucci. The earrings are designed in a sort of “knitted” ropetwist pattern, the tops sprinkled with round single cut diamonds. The stones are graded as I color and SI1 clarity. Both earrings are marked “18Ct Italy” and signed “Gucci”. The earrings retain their original posts and omega clips, and are presented in their original fitted Gucci box.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 11/16” long; 1/2” wide. Weight: 10.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .30 ct.

A fine pair of vintage 18K yellow gold earrings in the Venetian Etruscan style. Each earring features a 1.52 amethyst cabochon surrounded by smaller cabochons. The gold surfaces are enhanced with an intricate pattern of wire- and bead-work, and the edges are finished in a zigzag pattern. The earrings are marked with Italian hallmarks. The backs have omega clips, but posts could easily be added.

• Italy, ca. 1960
• Excellent condition
• 15/16" diameter
• 13.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.0 carats

A heavy and finely made pair of 18K yellow gold stirrup (étrier) cufflinks set with calibre-cut blue sapphires designed by the Russian émigré jeweler Olga Tritt for sale at her Park Avenue boutique in New York. The arches of the cufflinks are set with rows calibre-cut intensely-colored blue sapphires.

Tritt specialized in antique jewelry, but supplemented her selection with an array of her own luxury designs, mostly made in France to her specifications. Her client roster included many luminaries, including the Duchess of Windsor. These cufflinks are unsigned, but the particular elongated figure-8 style of the hinged connectors was unique to Tritt. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• France, circa 1935
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 15/16" (20 x 24 mm)
• Weight: 14.9 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 2.03 carats

A delightful enameled 18K gold love/friendship charm or pendant by Georg Adam Scheid, jeweler to the Imperial Hapsburg Court in Vienna. The rooster is carefully engraved into the gold surface and then filled with translucent enamels in shades of orange, green and yellow. The edge is enameled in black with the French phrase, "Quand ce coq chantera, mon amitié finira. (When this rooster crows, my friendship will end.)" Obviously, the gold and enamel rooster will never crow, so the friendship will never end! The pendant/charm is stamped with Scheid's hallmark, the city mark for Vienna and French import marks for 18K.

Georg Adam Scheid (sometimes listed as Georg Anton Scheid) was active 1882-1911. He was particularly noted for his enamel work and became a favored gold- and silversmith to the Imperial Family. Scheid's pieces in gold are far rarer that his silver items.

• Origin: Austria, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 9/16" (14 mm) diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 2.0 grams

A fabulous pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik DANGLE earrings by H Stern. The spheres are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. These earrings are the only examples of dangle Sputniks we have ever seen. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: spheres, 19/32" (16mm) diameter; length, 1-5/8" (44mm)
• Weight: 6.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.2 carats

An 18K gold and amethyst Venetian Etruscan charm or pendant enhanced with ropetwist and beaded decoration. The larger portions of the gold surface are worked in an engraved crosshatch pattern that is very unusual for Italian charms of the period. The decoration creates a soft sheen rather than a glittery surface. The amethysts are set with fleur-de-lis and claw prongs. The amethysts have deep purple coloring and are of very nice quality. The bail is marked "18K Italy."

• Origin: Italy, circa 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8" x 1-1/2" (excluding jump ring) (23 x 23 x 40 mm)
• Weight: 15.9 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 9.6 carats

An outstanding 18K gold shield-form perfume locket ("vinaigrette"), opening to reveal two compartments separated by a hinged crystal cover. The front cover is worked in an ornate pierced and engraved design in the Persian taste. The tiny pierced openings are concealed within the design and are intended to permit the escape of scent from a tiny perfume-soaked sponge that can be wedged inside the front cover. Vinaigrettes of this sort were used by ladies to ward off the unpleasant odors of the streets. The back cover is more simply decorated in a stippled pattern that vaguely suggests fleurs-de-lys. When opened, the back side can accommodate a portrait. The two halves are separated by a thick crystal cover with beveled edges set in gold. The locket hangs from a scrolled bail ornament. The gold has a slightly rosy tint. The inside edges are stamped with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: very good, sharp detail; the back cover has a few small dings visible in strong raking light
• Dimensions: 1-9/16” x 15/16” (40 x 23 mm)
• Weight: 21.0 grams

A pair of Victorian cufflinks in 14K rose gold, each face set with a faceted amethyst cabochon. Cufflinks of this type almost always use plain cabochons and the use of foil-backed faceted amethysts here is particularly attractive. The faces are joined by solid oval links. The backs are marked for 14K.

• America, ca 1890
• Excellent condition
• Faces, 5/8" x 5/16" (16 x 8 mm)
• 6.2 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 11.96 carats

A fine Victorian 14K yellow gold watch fob pendant featuring a 23.5-carat oval brilliant cut amethyst nested in the coiled tail and wings of a ferocious dragon. The tail and wings are very nicely detailed with scales and feathers. The dragon's neck forms the bail from which the pendant would hang. The amethyst has very nice even coloring, eye-clean clarity and good cut. Jewels featuring mythological creatures became popular in Paris around 1870 and the craze then spread to England and America. Being worked in 14K gold (tested and guaranteed), this example is certainly American.

• America, ca. 1875
• Very good condition; sharp detail to gold work; minor wear abrasions to facet junctions (mostly along the keel at the back of the stone) on the amethyst consistent with age
• 1-3/16" x 1-1/4"
• 10.79 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 23.5 carats

A vintage 18K yellow gold turtle brooch set with rubies by Cartier. The turtle’s shell is formed as interwoven wide ribbons of textured gold, the intersections prong-set with round brilliant-cut rubies. The eyes are also set with small rubies. Parts of the gold have a Florentine finish while others are smooth, creating very pleasing contrast. The rubies are of very fine quality, with strongly saturated color and eye-clean clarity. The reverse side of the pin is worked in a trellis pattern. The back is marked with “Cartier 18K” and has a serial number. The pin could easily be converted to a pendant by adding a bail under the head.

• France, circa 1965
• Excellent condition
• 1-7/16 x 1"
• 15.2 grams
• Ruby, .44 carat

Elegant 18K yellow gold and diamond ring in the "Saffo" pattern from the "Greca" line by Versace. The wide gold band is solid in the back, but the front is pierced in a classic Greek key pattern. The pierced area is pavé-set with 59 round brilliant-cut diamonds (G/VVS2). Prior to his death in 1997, Gianni Versace created a limited line of fine jewelry, and this particular design appeared as rings, bracelets and earrings. The back of the band is signed "VERSACE" and the interior is marked with Italian 18K gold hallmarks. The ring is accompanied with its original embossed leather presentation box and the original paperboard outer box. The original retail price of this ring was $4,050.

Origin: Italy, 1995. Condition: mint. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Size: 3/8" wide. Weight: 8.0 grams. Total Diamond Weight: .71 carat.

Gorgeous pendant comprised of a 14 karat yellow gold sunburst, with white gold accents, centered by a .89 carat round brilliant-cut blue sapphire of dark, vividly saturated, very slightly greenish-blue color. The stone exhibits notable green and blue pleochroism is likely Australian in origin. The chain in the photo is not included. The clasp is marked "14K".

• America, circa 1930
• Excellent condition, all original
• 1-5/16" diameter
• 9.0 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: .89 carat

A stunning and very heavy late Victorian 18K yellow gold fob chain and watch chain. The chain is a wonderfully complex snake-like combination of plain links intertwined with heavily chased links. The edges of the fob are decorated with a matching chased design. The fob has never been monogrammed. The clasp is marked with Continental 18K gold hallmarks.

Ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: overall length, 5-3/8”; fob, 15/16” x 13/16” x 15/32”. Weight: 24.5 grams.

A nice smaller-size pyramidal Etruscan style 18K yellow gold fob charm set with carnelian and dyed green chalcedony cabochons. The gold surfaces are finely decorated with beading and wirework in the antique Etruscan manner. The original jump ring is stamped with Italian 18K hallmarks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1” long (excluding jump ring) x 3/4” Weight: 6.5 grams.

A nice Victorian 14K yellow gold watch fob in the form of a pair of dolphin-like fish facing one another. The bodies are scaly and they have ornate flowing gills in the classical manner. The oval seal is engraved with a four-letter monogram and also T. E. Co. 1918. The fob retains its original reeded jump ring. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1918. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Weight: 4.7 grams. Size: 1-5/8” x 1”.

A stunning Belle Epoque brooch in the form of a fern worked in silver-topped 18K gold and set with 89 rose cut diamonds. The curving shape and the delicacy of each individual diamond-set leaf gives the piece a lightness that is very attractive for wear with today's clothing styles. The pin could also easily be converted to a pendant by attaching a gold chain at either end. In the 19th language of flowers, fern conveyed the sentiment of "sincerity." The back is stamped with French 18K marks.

France, circa 1870

Excellent condition

1-3/8" x 2-7/16"

9.9 grams

Approximate total diamond weight: 1.33 carats

An outstanding Victorian 18K yellow gold oval slide locket, the cover with set with an amazing sardonyx cameo depicting an early steamship also rigged with sails. The single smoke funnel, the sails’ rigging and the absence of a sidewheel suggest the locket dates to the mid-19th century. The carving is expertly worked using the alternating cream and rust colors of the sardonyx to represent every small detail. The marshy foreground is littered with barrels, crates and a large anchor. The hardstone is surrounded by a Greek key pattern carved into the gold. This pattern is repeated on the back cover surrounding an oval or engine-turned engraving. The locket opens by sliding sideways from a pivot at the top. Lockets were used, of course, to hold pictures, locks of hair or other sentimental remembrances. Most likely, a locket with this kind of decoration would have been worn by a ship captain’s wife (the only sailor’s wife likely to have enough money to purchase an expensive locket of this size and quality).

Ca. 1845. Condition: excellent, no damage to carving, 2 pinpoint dings on the back cover, original frames remaining in interior, no monogram. Tested and guaranteed 18K. Size: 1-3/16” x 1-11/16” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 15.9 grams.

Extremely fine Victorian memorial ring in 18K yellow gold, the shoulders with glossy black taille d’epargne enamel and engraved foliate decoration. A shield-shaped black and white sardonyx cartouche crowns the ring and covers a hair compartment visible through the beveled rock crystal cover on the inside of the ring. The inside of the shank is engraved “Thomas Bland 1857 Obt 23 March 68 years” and the compartment holds a woven plaque of his gray hair. The back inside of the shank is fully hallmarked for Birmingham 1856-57, with the maker’s mark “TM”. This is certainly one of the finest memorial rings we’ve seen.

Origin: England, 1857. Condition: virtually mint. Size: 8-1/4. Weight: 4.5 grams.

A fine 14K yellow gold griffin stickpin by Riker. The eye is set with a bright faceted ruby and the claw grasps an old European cut diamond. As with all Riker pieces, the gemstones are of excellent quality. This stick pin could be worn as is, or converted to a ring or necklace charm. The reverse is stamped with Riker's hallmark.

• America, circa 1880
• Head, 5/8" x 1/2"; overall length, 2-1/2"
• 1.8 grams
• Approximate diamond weight: .05 carat

A colorful pair of Art Deco 14K gold double-sided cufflinks, each face featuring an oval cabochon of green chalcedony in a simple gold frame. The faces are joined by chains. The backs are marked "585" for 14K.

• Continental Europe, circa 1925
• Excellent condition
• Faces, 9/16" x 3/8"(14 x 9 mm)
• 6.6 grams.

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket depicting the head of a lion in 3/4 profile on the cover. His eyes are set with round faceted rubies (natural and untreated) and he grasps a 5-pt old European cut diamond in his jaws. The flowing mane is just visible behind the head and blends into the swirling border that completes the design. The plain back cover was never engraved.

• America, ca 1890
• Very good condition; a few small pinpoints on the back cover
• 1-1/8" diameter
• 6.5 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 carat; ruby, .05 carat

An outstanding Victorian multi-colored 14K gold watch fob worked in yellow, green and rose gold with platinum. The fob is fashioned as a bouquet of flowers bound together with a scalloped border. The flowers are expertly enhanced with engraved details. The trace link chain alternates between rose gold, green gold and platinum. The swivel is original and is marked "14K."

• America, circa 1890
• Excellent condition; sharp detail
• charm, 5/8" diameter; 4-11/16" overall length
• 9.5 grams

A rare gilt bronze watch fob with a carnelian seal with an allegorical figure depicting "Temptation" in the form a hooded monk with hands piously folded across his own chest while standing next to a nude woman. The woman is pressing against him and appears to be whispering into his ear. Virtuous themes presented gentlemen of the era with an opportunity to indulge in a little erotic naughtiness. The figure is enhanced with detailed engraving.

• England or France, circa 1830
• Very good condition; light wear to gilding; no engraving on carnelian; better in person than the photos
• 1-1/2" x 7/8" x 11/16"

An 18K yellow gold and diamond necklace for the French luxury jeweler Fred of Paris. The design features a series of bar-shaped chain links interrupted by stations collet-set with round brilliant diamonds of G color and VVS2 clarity. The necklace is 16" long and is designed to curve gently around the lower neck. This length is very versatile for either evening or day wear. The necklace is signed "Fred" and is fully hallmarked with French 18K marks.

Fred Samuelson established his Paris boutique in 1936, and quickly became a favored jeweler to Marlene Dietrich and many other luminaries of the time. Today, there are a few boutiques worldwide, but Fred is still considered an understated luxury of quintessentially Parisian style.

• France, circa 1980
• 16" long; 3/16" wide
• 27.3 grams
• 1.1 carats approximate total diamond weight

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold and steel earrings by Fred of Paris. The original FORCE 10 line was created by French jeweler Fred Samuels in 1966 and was based on pieces of rigging found on sailboats. Since 1936, the Parisian house had been one of the world’s most exclusive jewelers, the Samuels’ combination of precious metals with stainless steel was a shocking innovation. In the forty years since the collection debuted, Fred of Paris has continually tweaked the collection by adding gemstones or other decorative elements—in this case cloisonné enamel. The translucent green, red and blue flowers appearing against an opaque white background gives the earclips a casual style that meshes nicely with the gold and steel setting. They’d be perfect to wear with either jeans or business attire. The backs are fully hallmarked with the maker’s mark and the French 18K gold standard, and are signed “Fred of Paris/Force 10”.

Origin: France, ca. 1990-1998. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16” long; 7/16” wide. Weight: 12.8 grams.

A wonderful Victorian angel skin cameo depicting a 17th century gentlemen set in 18K gold. Male cameos are rather unusual and typically depict deities from the Greco-Roman pantheon or historical figures. This example appears very similar to the Van Dyck portraits of King Charles II. The details of the lace collar, heavy neck chain, ruffled shirt, beard and hair are very finely worked. The cameo is deeply carved, with the white figure standing out beautifully from the soft pink background. The setting is simple, featuring only a simple line of wire-twist decoration. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Probably American, circa 1850
• Excellent condition; no cracking to coral; replaced clasp
• 2-1/32" x 1-13/16"
• 26.8 grams

A superb Victorian shell cameo depicting Jesus wearing the crown of thorns set in a simple 18K gold frame. The cameo is beautifully carved with extraordinary detailing to the hair. The shell's shape is deeply cupped and adds wonderful depth to the design. Cameos depicting Jesus are extremely rare Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• America, circa 1860.
• Excellent condition; no cracks to shell
• 1-23/32" x 1-3/8"
• 11.2 grams

A Victorian shell cameo depicting Aurora/Eos, goddess of the dawn set in a 14K gold frame decorated in the Etruscan taste withe beads and rosettes. The goddess is shown with her chief attribute, a pair of feathered wings in her hair (not to be confused with Psyche who has butterfly wings). The back retains the original pinstem and folding bail, but the clasp is an old replacement. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1870
• Excellent condition; no cracks to shell; replaced clasp
• 1-11/16" x 1-5/16"
• 7.4 grams

An attractive Victorian shell cameo depicting Diana/Artemis, goddess of the hunt, the moon, and nature. She is shown wearing her crescent moon tiara. As a virgin goddess, Diana was considered the protector of women, especially during childbirth. The cameo is set into a wide gold frame ornately engraved in a floral motif. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp, as well as pendant hook that appears to be a later replacement. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

• America, circa 1900
• Very good condition; no cracks to shell; replaced pendant hook
• 1-15/15" x 1-5/8"
• 10.8 grams

A fine Victorian shell cameo pendant/pin depicting Diana, goddess of the hunt, the moon and nature (Artemis in Green mythology). The setting is beautifully worked in the Etruscan taste with delicately formed bead, wire and rosette decoration. The carving makes nice use of the shell's coloring to add details to the goddess' gown. She holds three of her attributes—a bow, a quiver of arrows and a crescent moon tiara. Diana/Artemis, being a virgin goddess, was regarded as the protector of women, especially during childbirth. The cameo is indistinctly signed by the artist. The back retains the original pinstem and pendant hook. The clasp is a slightly later replacement in 10K. The pinstem is stamped for 12K gold and the setting is tested and guaranteed 12K.

• England, circa 1865
• Excellent condition; clasp replaced; no cracks to shell
• 2-5/32" x 1-3/4"
• 14.25 grams

A classic late Victorian 14K yellow gold curb link chain bracelet with collet-set oval amethyst stations. The amethysts have nicely saturated violet color. Marked 14K.

• America, circa 1900
• 9 1/2" long
• Excellent condition
• 6.75 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 3.66 carats

A classic 14K yellow gold "Tree of Life" pin by Mikimoto. This design is an enduring classic available only from the higher-level Mikimoto boutiques. The pin is set with twelve cultured pearls, ranging in size from 4.89 to 6.79 mm. The pearls are of exceptional AAA quality, with cream body color, rose overtones, a bright luster. The back is marked with Mikimoto's oyster shell signature.

• Japan, circa 2010
• Excellent condition
• 1 1/4" x 1 11/16"
• 8.2 grams

A Victorian 18K gold locket in the shape of an elongated heart centering an enameled plaque depicting a lovebird delivering a love letter amidst a bower of roses. The plaque is outlined with an ornate border of black champleve enamel. The gold is highlighted with lightly engraved decoration which is repeated on the back. The back cover is more ornately engraved. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Probably English, ca. 1840
• Very good condition; a small ding on the left edge of the heart and minor pinpoints on the back cover
• 2" (excluding bail) x 1 1/8"
• 9.0 grams

A pair of high quality 1960s French 18K gold earrings featuring cabochons of ruby, sapphire and emerald nestled in a spiky gold design the resembles chestnuts as they burst from their shells at the peak of ripeness. The gemstones are intensely saturated in pure tones of red, blue and green. The earrings bear French hallmarks for 18K gold and have an unidentified maker's mark "Ste EUR". The earrings have clip backs, but the levers have an opening so posts could be added, if desired.

• France, circa 1960
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 1" x 1 3/8"
• 19.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.52 carats; sapphire, 1.40 carats; emerald, .82 carat

A stunning Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the cover with repousse decoration illustrating the Byzantine Empress Theodora. Though we’ve never seen this particular design before, Byzantine motifs were widely used in Art Nouveau jewels, especially in France where they were copied from costumes created for the actress Sarah Bernhardt and posters by Alphonse Mucha. The Empress is sumptuously dressed in a flowing robe with a wide jeweled collar, bracelets and earrings. She wears a heavy crown and sits on a throne. The quality of decoration is excellent. The back of the locket has a period three-letter monogram in elegant Art Nouveau script. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1900
• Excellent condition; sharp detail; a few small dings on the back side
• Dimensions: 1-5/32” diameter
• 5.7 grams

A wonderful Imperial Russian witch's heart brooch and pendant worked in silver-topped 14K gold and set with 78 rose cut diamonds and a heart-shaped garnet. Interestingly, the garnet is not cut in a standard heart shape, but in a slightly curved fashion that echoes the overall shape of the pin. The heart is topped with a ribbon motif. In Victorian jewelry symbolism, the witch's heart conveyed the meaning, "Bewitched by love." The brooch is Russian, but the pinstem and clasp were replaced around 1920, and at that time the brooch was then marked with a transitional Polish hallmark used 1920-21 to remark items that had been created during the time Poland was occupied by Imperial Russia. The brooch also retains the original Russian maker's mark "KK".

NOTE: The chain is shown for display purposes only.

• Russia, circa 1850
• 15/16" x 1 5/16"
• 7.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.0 carats; garnet, 2.66 carats

A vintage 18K yellow gold figa (also "mano fico") charm or pendant. The figa is considered a weapon against the "evil eye" and a protector of creative forces, including the womb. The form itself is derived from ancient representations of female genitalia. The wrist has a traditional flowered cuff.

• 3.3 grams
• 1 3/8" long (excluding jump ring)

An 18K yellow gold medallion pendant or charm depicting Emperor Napoleon I. The design pictures Bonaparte as a young man, but the source appears to be Nicolas-Toussaint Charlet's portrait created in 1821, the year of the former Emperor's death. This image is largely credited with creating the myth of Napoleon that lasted throughout the 19th century. The medallion has superb, sharp detail shown in high relief. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• France, late 19th century
• 1 1/16" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• 12.6 grams

A rare cocktail pick set in the form of a bakelite champagne stopper holding a set of chrome picks. Of the many French Art Deco barware items we’ve handled, this is the first example of this pick set we’ve seen.

• France, circa 1930
• Bakelite is inxcellent condition; light wear to plating on picks
• 4” tall

A very rare 14K gold and diamond Art Nouveau medallion watch pin featuring a portrait of Sacagawea. She is shown in profile, wearing a feathered headdress and a bear claw necklace, gazing out over plains dotted with teepees. An old mine cut diamond (G, VVS2) glimmers in place of the sun on the far opposite side. This piece was likely made at the time of the centennial anniversary of the Lewis & Clark Expedition in 1905. The back retains the original watch hook and pinstem. The clasp is marked for 14K and has Larter’s hallmark. The piece can easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail.

• America, ca. 1905.
• Excellent condition; sharp detail
• 3/4” diameter
• Weight: 5.2 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .025 carat

A French Retro 18K gold dragonfly brooch, the wings star-set with rubies and sapphires. The dragonfly’s body is worked in a stylized geometric design. The brooch currently has a double fur clip fastener, but would look stunning as a pendant necklace on a split chain (adding a small bail at the tip of each wing is very easy.)

• France, ca. 1935
• Excellent condition
• 1 9/16” wide & 1 3/32” long
• Weight: 6.1 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .20 carat; ruby, .20 carat

Victorian 15K gold garnet lover's knot hair locket. The locket features an unusually bright large garnet cabochon surrounded by a gold frame in a rope twist motif tied with a lover's knot to form the bail. The reverse features a small rock-crystal compartment containing woven hair. Hair lockets could either be love tokens or mourning jewelry or sentimental jewelry. The lover's knot does little to clarify which is the case for this particular piece, though the absence of an engraved date on the reverse suggests that it might have been a love token. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

• England, circa 1835.
• 1" x 5/8"
• Weight: 6.9 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 15.33 carat

Lovely French Second Empire 18K yellow gold, ruby and pearl earrings. Each earring features a surmount set with a round ruby in a buttercup mounting suspending a scrolled drop terminating in a second ruby and seed pearl drop surrounded by an engraved horseshoe. The rubies are relatively pastel, with a soft reddish-pink coloring. The earrings have lots of movement and sparkle. The original wires are stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1850
• Condition: Excellent
• Dimensions: 1-11/16" long (from top of ear wire); 1/2" wide.
• Weight: 3.8 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .76 carat

Heavy 18K gold figural watch fob seal depicting a Napoleonic grenadier (1804-1812). The soldier is depicted in the midst of tamping down his musket. The details are beautifully worked. The base appears to have had the original monogram removed. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

• France, ca. 1870
• Excellent condition; monogram removed
• Dimensions: 1/2" x 1/2" x 1-1/4"
• 10.9 grams

An Edwardian gilt silver ("vermeil") locket enhanced with bright turquoise blue guilloche enamel. The starburst design of the champleve is enhanced with gilt accents in the enamel. The locket retains the original insert frames on both sides. Stamped with English hallmarks; the city mark is obscured, so we can't be certain of the exact date letter, but we believe it to be 1917.

• England, ca 1917
• Excellent condition; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1" diameter
• Weight: 13.0 grams

Art Deco 18K gold and sapphire stirrup cufflinks in the style first popularized by Cartier. The heavy mesh sides are accented with two blue sapphire sugarloaf cabochons on each cufflink. Each is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

• France, ca. 1950
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions:13/16" x 1-3/32"
• Weight: 16.9 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .72 carat

An iconic pair of 18K yellow gold "X" earrings by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. These earrings were made in several sizes, and this pair is a larger size. The earrings never had posts, but they could be easily added, if desired. The backs are marked “1983 Tiffany & Co. 18K” and signed by Picasso.

• America, ca. 1983
• Excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 7/8”
• Weight: 12.0 grams

A classic 18K yellow gold tapered band by Tiffany & Co. set at the crown with an oval cabochon citrine. The stone has very nice slightly orangey-yellow color and eye-clean clarity. The ring has a very solid feel and can be worn by either a man or woman. The interior of the shank is marked “750” for 18K and is signed by Tiffany. This ring is no longer available at Tiffany, but originally sold for $2,150.

• Italy, ca. 2000
• Very good condition; light wear to the shank
• Finger Size: 5
• Dimensions: 5/16” wide at crown
• Weight: 8.3 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.0 carats

A nice pair of late Edwardian 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, each face centering an oval blue sapphire cabochon surrounded by engine-turned engracing. The sapphires have deep blue coloring. The back of one cufflink is engraved "Linked with fondest memories" and the other completes the inscription with "To J.M. from R.M. 1919." The connectors are stamped "14K" and have the maker's mark for Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss.

• America, ca. 1919
• Excellent, original condition
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1/2"
• Weight: 8.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.28 carats

A delightful German Christmas candy container in the shape of a pear. The container was made from composition, then painted and finished with a coat of wax to add a realistic soft sheen. The interior of the pull-out base is marked "Germany."

• Origin: Germany ca. 1910
• Good condition; there is a small nick on the top and a crack extending across the bottom from the opening (it is only in the outer layer and does not go through to the interior
• Dimensions: 3-1/2" x 2-1/2" x 2-1/2"

Vintage 18K yellow gold post-back earrings in the "Scribble" design by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. The design is sometimes called "Graffiti" or "Squiggle." The earrings were made in various sizes, with this pair being the most delicate and wearable. The backs are dated 1983 and are marked by Tiffany and Picasso.

• Origin: America, ca. 1983
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1-7/16"
• Weight: 4.9 grams

An unusual and handsome 14K yellow gold tie bar designed as a Gothic-style strap hinge by Larter & Sons. When not being used to hold a tie in place, the piece could also be used as a money clip. The design is nicely detailed with beveled edges and raised bolts. The back is stamped with Larter's hallmark. Larter manufactured pieces such as this for leading jewelry retailers such as Tiffany and Cartier.

• Origin: America, ca. 1925
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 2-7/16" x 3/4"
• Weight: 7.5 grams

A brilliant red transparent lucite jewelry box or dresser box, the hinged lid inset with a sterling silver medallion illustrating a pair of lovebirds. The interior of the lid has a small round mirror. The medallion is stamped "Sterling" and has a design patent number registered in 1945.

• Origin: America, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 4-3/4" x 3-15/16" x 1-3/4"

A beautiful late Victorian 18K yellow gold and platinum ring set with a 1/2-carat oval ruby bordered with rose cut diamonds set in platinum. The ruby is graded as slightly purplish-red color, medium-dark tone and moderately strong saturation (slpR 6/4) and shows no indicated of heat or other treatment. The carat weight of rose cut diamonds cannot be accurately determined by measurement, but they have the visual appearance of being about a half carat in total weight. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Very good condition; the back of the shank is an old sizing replacement that was obviously custom-made to match
• Dimensions: crown, 7/8” diameter
• Finger Size: 7-1/4
• Weight: 3.4 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .50 carat; diamond, .50 carat

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the oval faces bezel-set with round blue sapphires. The faces are slightly concave and are highlighted with a brushed Florentine finish. The connectors are marked "750" for 18K.

• Circa 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16" x 1/2"
• Weight: 10.3 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .24 carat

A very attractive pair of 14K white gold cufflinks, the arched faces featuring center rows of channel-set rectangular cut blue sapphires flanked on either side by a row of pave-set round brilliant diamonds. The sapphires have intense, medium-dark blue color and the diamonds are graded at G/H color with SI2 clarity. The faces are attached to toggle backs marked “585” for 14K gold.

Circa 1990

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: 7/16” x 11/16”

Weight: 11.1 grams

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 2.9 carats; diamond, .56 carat